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Scratch Build

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  • Member since
    August 2008
Posted by tankerbuilder on Friday, March 6, 2015 11:41 AM

Yup !

That's why I don't usually recommend them for Scratch Building anything . I used them , ( The Signs ) once on an R.C. Model , I had to sand the lettering off with a belt sanding  machine . Never again .You know what G ? I love Evergreen .

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Friday, March 6, 2015 10:54 AM

I prefer styrene. You can buy 0.020 in good sized sheets at the art store usually, or look for places that sell architectural modeling supplies like University Bookstores.

And good old Evergreen. I've never been really conscious that it costs a lot. I just built everything from the hull up a freighter on 1/300 scale, out of my scrap box. probably $ 5.00 worth of plastic, and fun to do.

I will tell you one "tip" that sounded good, but was a failure- using those "for sale" signs from the hardware store. A 9 x 12 inch or so sign- $ 8.00. Printed graphics were so thick they had a raised edge. So dense no amount of primer could hide it. In frustration tried to use the back side. Less than smooth, pebbly finish.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    August 2008
Posted by tankerbuilder on Friday, March 6, 2015 10:37 AM

For strength in those areas ( hangar deck etc . use .030or .040 at the thickest .You can brace the bottom and that way keep it light .1/8 the is way too thick Unless you are doing a ship six or eight foot long .

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Friday, March 6, 2015 9:25 AM

Wood is an extremely popular building material.  Further, scratch building of ship models is more common than most other genres.  Well, of course ships have been around longer than other materials.

Wood is cheaper, too, than styrene.  However, if you need VERY thin pieces, styrene can be stronger.  You do not need to be consistent with materials,  Wood and styrene bond together quite well.  I would use both- wood for interior structures, plastic for outside areas.  It takes more priming and filling to make wood look like metal, easier to make styrene look like metal.  I have sometimes used blocks of wood sheathed in 0.020 on metal hulled ships.  For lower levels where there is no opening other than port holes, wood is very nice to use, and move to styrene for topmost decks where there will be more openings to interior.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by Souda99 on Thursday, March 5, 2015 7:21 PM
What would be a good thickness to use? I was thinking 1/8 inch that way i could try to add some details like pad eyes and maybe the conflag stations. Would that be thick enough or too thick?
  • Member since
    February 2011
  • From: St louis
Posted by Raualduke on Thursday, March 5, 2015 7:01 PM

Honestly you can use whatever works. That nice white cardboard that come in a shirt box works well. So does corrugated ,and all kinds of packaging  you throw away from the supermarket

  • Member since
    November 2014
Posted by BLACKSMITHN on Thursday, March 5, 2015 6:53 PM

Styrene sounds good to me. You can actually find good deals on styrene sheets on eBay.  I once found such a great price that I bought enough to last me several years. I'm still working on reducing the stockpile!

  • Member since
    January 2013
Scratch Build
Posted by Souda99 on Thursday, March 5, 2015 3:52 PM
I have a Revell 1:400 scale Enterprise that Im starting and I was thinking about trying my hand at doing some scratch building. I want to put in the hangar bay on the carrier and I was wondering if anyone could suggest the best materiel for the job. I was thinking 1/8 inch styrene sheets, butni wanted advice and if anyone knows of a good distributer.
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