Pounce Wheels

I'm interested to read the results on this question myself as I have to "force " myself to to do the enormously tedious task of replacing sanded off rivets one at a time with various needle point tools. I've had a 1/48 PBY-5 on the bench for like 2 months waiting for rivets. The plane keeps staring at me saying "come on, get it done"

I just use a paper strip. I mark off a line of equally spaced dots or lines using a pencil and scale.  I then do whatever is needed to create a fastener at regular intervals.  This is more versatile than a ponce wheel because I can create other than a depression.  Sometimes it is a dry transfer dot or circle, sometimes it is a dot of paint applied with a toothpick end. If I want a small depression like the ponce wheel makes I just use a scriber.

There are many available in many different pitches. Check out RB Productions Rivet-R tools for instance. I am sure one of his would match up with the spacing you need.

Jay

Rivet tools made for modeling aren't pounce wheels, as they are made to leave a recessed circular depression. Like Jay said, I find RB productions the best tool, with the Rosie and Trumpeter's tool in a close second. These tools don't necessarily match most kit rivets, such as Hobbyboss or Trumpeter's. I usually end up using a needle in a pinvise, then using a small, #80 or .2mm drill bit to enlarge the hole just a bit. The rivet wheels are best to rivet a whole kit that lacks the detail in the first place.

I have the 3 piece pounce wheel set sold by Mircromark (Excel brand)

http://www.micromark.com/3-piece-pounce-wheel-set,6668.html

The spacing for the divots are 0.041, 0.051, and 0.072" which for 1:48 scale is 1.97", 2.45", 3.46" spacing. They are beveled on the 4 sides so the marks a square and not round as Nathan T points out. I will try to post a test sample later of all three side by side.

Here's the test I did with the 3 piece Excel pounce wheel set on a piece scrap styrene (old Monogram F-16 part) from the 'boneyard'.

The top row was done with the same tool as the second row, I just wasn't pressing hard enough to get the wheel to dig in. The bottom three rows are done with the 3 different wheels, hence the different spacing. 

As you can see the holes have corners so you would have to follow up with drill be to make them round. The picture is taken very close up with the super macro setting on the camera. So at actual size with a Mark 1 eyeball one would be challenged to notice the holes are squarish.

I didn't think of it at the time but I could have put and 1/4" architects scale by the picture so you could have an idea of diameter of the holes in 1:48 scale. But based off some back of the napkin calculations I would estimate the holes are about 3/4" in scale diameter.

I have the Micromark set that I bought many years ago (about $10 back then)  and it comes in very handy now and then with different sizes. Excellent quality. 

I wish to thank all of you for the input.  After long consideration, I opted for the RB, it came with 4 sizes and fits the exacto hobby knife.  I think the PBY will thank me!  Just have to remind myself not to rivet everything.

I guess I just don't get it.   If after using a rivet tool/pounce wheel you have to go over every tiny square hole with a drill to make them round, why not just use a drill in the first place and skip the rivet tool.  Seems counter productive to me.

A true modeling rivet tool such as RB or Trumpeters makes a nice round hole. No need to use a drill bit unless you want a larger hole.

TY Nathan, I didn't know there where rivet tools make round holes.  i stand corrected Sir,.