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Masking canopies

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  • Member since
    February 2013
Masking canopies
Posted by davenport_r on Friday, July 24, 2015 7:24 AM

I’ve discovered that the aluminum foil available at the “dollar store” is significantly thinner than the standard foil you get at the grocery store.  I’ve tried it for producing a natural metal finish, with some success (I need more practice).  Because it conforms to the plastic so well, it's easy to outline canopy panels to cut precise masks.  I’ve also been trying to develop a method for fabricating canopy masks.  The problem I’ve run into is the adhesive; it has to be something that will hold securely, especially for sealing the edges, but also release cleanly without marring the canopy.  So far nothing I’ve tried has been successful.  I've tried white glue, like Elmer's, and rubber cement as my best bets.  Does anyone have recommendations on where to find such an adhesive?

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Friday, July 24, 2015 8:37 AM
The only adhesive I can imagine doing that would be contact adhesive. It remains tacky and the mask can be repositioned if needed.

I just use masking tape cut in small pieces or strips to match the shapes I'm masking. If it's too complicated sometimes the Eduard masks come in very handy.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Friday, July 24, 2015 10:09 AM

I'll toss in a few ideas.

The cheaper the foil the better as you found out. In the main chain stores, it's the "house" brand, or the stuff not marked "Heavy Duty".

Elmer's sells a little spray can of their contact cement, I suppose made for scrap booking. It's pretty grabby, but it does peel/ roll off plastic.

I get bad results cutting masks on the canopy. Somehow the knife cuts always show.

I like using yellow Tamiya tape, and between the lines of PJ's description above, get more success with lots of little pieces.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    December 2006
  • From: Phoenix, AZ
Posted by Fly-n-hi on Friday, July 24, 2015 10:30 AM

Try Microscale Micro Metal Foil Adhesive.  This stuff works really well.  And the residue can be cleaned up with water.

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Cameron, Texas
Posted by Texgunner on Friday, July 24, 2015 11:45 AM

Timely thread for me.  I just "restarted" my stalled Tamiya F4D Skyray after two long years.  It was a bit more than half finished and is now just about ready for finish paint.  I used EZ Masks for the canopy and I thought some folks might enjoy seeing them "in action".

Here is the canopy set with the EZ Masks applied:

And a couple shots with the canopy painted interior black, and placed on the airframe.  The insignia white on the lower surface is done and I'll be painting the gull gray upper soon.  It feels really good to be back in the saddle and making some progress again!

and one thrown in of the cockpit:

Gary


"All you mugs need to get busy building, and post pics!"

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Friday, July 24, 2015 1:26 PM

Great looking Skyray Gary. I have that one in my stash with some CMK resin goodies. I like those masks  which come in VERY handy with those curbed outlines. Think I will get me a set.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    May 2014
Posted by alanp on Sunday, July 26, 2015 1:44 PM

Hi All:

I have found Montex masks to be my preferred canopy masking material.  You can get them from Hannants and they have a huge selection [international postage is quite reasonable].  If you can't find your model with Montex, Eduard masks work well, as does cutting up small strips of Tamiya tape.  E-Z masks are only mostly available in 1/48 scale but they work well.   I have had mixed results with adhesive foil for masking, you have to very accurate with the knife blade and peeling them off after painting, applying Future, weathering and dull coating [takes up to a week] is messy - the foil frequently breaks up.  Stretchy Parafilm is another option, but I have found this difficult - I probably haven't mastered the technique as others appear to have.

Alan

  • Member since
    January 2014
Posted by Silver on Friday, July 31, 2015 11:05 PM
Google EZ Mask.They have a great selection of pre-cut Vinyl canopy mask that by using warm soapy water ,it slides on.They are out of Canada .They will instruct you on how to purchase the items.
  • Member since
    January 2014
Posted by Silver on Friday, July 31, 2015 11:06 PM
Also you can get regular canopy tape masks on the web.Google it.
  • Member since
    July 2015
Posted by CheesyMeatBurrito on Monday, August 3, 2015 12:08 PM

I stick with the Eduard masks if at all possible. I like Montex ok, but I like to Future my canopies and I've had the vinyl react to the Future.

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Monday, August 3, 2015 12:18 PM

Nice "Ray, Gary. Might suggest you replace the ejection seat handles with wire.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Cameron, Texas
Posted by Texgunner on Monday, August 3, 2015 12:41 PM

GMorrison

Nice "Ray, Gary. Might suggest you replace the ejection seat handles with wire.

Thank you sir!  You know, I thought about doing just that with the seat.  But, I had sort of promised myself to build this one out of the box, a kind of quick build to get the juices flowing again.   Well, that was over three years and one other finished plane ago. Embarrassed I've managed to keep AMS at bay for the most part, resisting the strong urge to add brake lines and sway brace bolts to the kit's ordnance mounting points.  I guess the 'pit will stay as pictured. 

This kit, since the "restart" has been a roller-coaster ride. Problems with decals, canopy, detail paint, etc. I am on the home stretch though, with mounting ordnance and landing gear coming right up.  Thanks again!

Gary


"All you mugs need to get busy building, and post pics!"

  • Member since
    January 2016
  • From: Winnipeg, Manitoba Canada
Posted by iSteve on Friday, February 5, 2016 11:52 PM

I've used the foil in cigarette packages for light-blocking models I've lit. If you carefully peel the paper backing off, the side that had the paper is slightly tacky and if you rub it down/burnish it on to plastic, it sticks quite well. I've never tried taking it off, but it my be worth a shot. The foil is certainly thinner than aluminum foil; essentially it's aluminum leaf (though I'm not sure of the actual metal composition.

  • Member since
    December 2015
  • From: providence ,r.i.
Posted by templar1099 on Sunday, February 7, 2016 5:23 AM

I'm not positive but I think stencilers use a 'tacky' spray that releases pretty easily. Good luck, post any results.

"le plaisir delicieux et toujours nouveau d'une occupation inutile"

  • Member since
    March 2015
Posted by gbaron64 on Tuesday, April 18, 2017 1:50 PM

Hey Alan:

I have a kind of dumb question.  How do you see the edges of Eduard Masks?  I risk cutting myself trying to start peeling the parts from the sheet.

Thanks

Greg

  • Member since
    January 2014
Posted by Silver on Friday, April 21, 2017 1:13 PM

Go on line and try " Monotrx" masks .The world of canopy masking had changed .Also "Easy mask of Canada.Tape and liquid masking are a thing of the past.

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