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Eduard Self Adhesive Photoetch

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  • Member since
    April 2015
Posted by Mopar Madness on Saturday, August 22, 2015 9:57 AM

Thank you everyone!  I see I have many options.  You all have been most helpful.

Thanks again!

Chad

God, Family, Models...

At the plate: 1/48 Airfix Bf109 & 1/35 Tamiya Famo

On deck: Who knows!

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Friday, August 21, 2015 11:44 AM

For those of you guys that strip the glue off the pe, then try using Aleene's white tacky glue. This product is cheap and is stronger than regular Elmer's.  I use it for attaching certain plastic and pe parts.

What I like about this product is that it dries clear so if you have some squeeze out, it will be invisible. The bond is really strong yet you can carefully pry off the part if necessary Without harming the paint, plastic or metal.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Friday, August 21, 2015 8:38 AM

One reason contact cements work so well on PE is that the weight of the PE pieces is miniscule.  Even under strong inertial forces, the force put on bond is very low, so the cement does not see much stress.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    December 2010
  • From: Memphis TN
Posted by Heavens Eagle on Friday, August 21, 2015 12:37 AM

When working on my Revell Ju 88 I found the self adhesive to be too soft and gooey.  In my experience that kind of adhesive eventually turns loose.

Setting the PE painted side down on some thick paper to somewhat cushion it, I scraped off the goo.  Then some lighter fluid on a Q-tip to clean the remainder.

When attaching with CA I start with a couple of tiny spots of thicker/slower setting CA to tack it in place.  If it sticks in the wrong place too soon I can pop it and retry.  Once it is located where I want it, I will use a .025" wire flattened to a chisel type point on one end and polished to apply the super thin fast set CA to the seam.  I add until it is all filled and seated all the way around.  At this point it is impossible to remove without destroying the PE and the part it is attached to.

Also be sure the PE where the CA is going to attach is clean bare metal and the place it is attaching is slightly sanded so that there is a nice fit.

You can also clamp the part in place and add thin CA to the edges until all sealed and glued.

Good Luck and look forward to seeing your build.

  • Member since
    August 2015
  • From: Northeast Florida
Posted by Arved on Thursday, August 20, 2015 10:00 PM

I haven't had the luxury of self adhesive PE for my HO trains. I've use "Barge Cement," but they've changed the formula. Latest/last builds I've done I've attached PE using canopy glue.

I would not use CA. Maybe some have had success, but others I've talked to have had problems with temperature variations and the different expansion coeeficients of the brass and plastic causing the CA to pop. No such problem with either "Barge Cement" or canopy glue.

Maybe if you never expect a major temperature change, CA might be an alternative, but why, when canopy glue works just as well, and gives you some time for last minute repositioning?

YMMV, etc. Good luck!

- Arved

e-mail | Blog

"Simplicate and Add Lightness" — design philosophy of Ed Heinemann, Douglas Aircraft

  • Member since
    April 2015
Posted by Mopar Madness on Thursday, August 20, 2015 6:13 PM

After the cockpit is painted and the colored parts are installed, do you all typically apply washes over the photoetch, or do you leave them as-is?  If so, can they accept most forms of washes?

Thanks again for all the help.

Chad

God, Family, Models...

At the plate: 1/48 Airfix Bf109 & 1/35 Tamiya Famo

On deck: Who knows!

  • Member since
    April 2015
Posted by Mopar Madness on Wednesday, August 19, 2015 9:00 PM

Gotcha.  Thanks for your help!

Chad

God, Family, Models...

At the plate: 1/48 Airfix Bf109 & 1/35 Tamiya Famo

On deck: Who knows!

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Wednesday, August 19, 2015 7:55 PM

The trick is not to touch the sticky part and apply it where it's going with no repositioning. Like contact cement, once it's down it will be damaged if pulled up. As to how well it holds up, I have several pits that are well over 3 years old looking as good as the day I applied them.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Tuesday, August 18, 2015 12:00 PM

tankerbuilder

Okay !

 Don't everyone hit me at once .

   I take ANY self -adhesive P.E. and remove the sticky with Goo-Gone or C.A remover . I just don't trust it . I have had All my medallions fall off my twelve car Southern Pacific " Daylight " train and they were supposed to be a permanent adhesive .

 So you see I learned to clean off the stickum and use C/A exclusively .

 

I find most of it comes off with handeling anyway, thats why i think its more trouble than its worth, just end up with sticky fingures. I might try your idea.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    April 2015
Posted by Mopar Madness on Tuesday, August 18, 2015 11:40 AM

Thank you all for the suggestions and help!  One last question.... Does the alcohol or Goo Gone have any adverse effect on the painted side?

Thanks again!

Chad

God, Family, Models...

At the plate: 1/48 Airfix Bf109 & 1/35 Tamiya Famo

On deck: Who knows!

  • Member since
    July 2015
Posted by CheesyMeatBurrito on Tuesday, August 18, 2015 10:48 AM

Yeah I just use some alcohol or goo gone to get the sticky off and go with CA. No problems.

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Tuesday, August 18, 2015 9:39 AM

I second TB's method. I too find the pre-sticky PE a pain to deal with.

Also, this eliminates your concern about the adhesive failing.

  • Member since
    August 2008
Posted by tankerbuilder on Tuesday, August 18, 2015 8:42 AM

Okay !

 Don't everyone hit me at once .

   I take ANY self -adhesive P.E. and remove the sticky with Goo-Gone or C.A remover . I just don't trust it . I have had All my medallions fall off my twelve car Southern Pacific " Daylight " train and they were supposed to be a permanent adhesive .

 So you see I learned to clean off the stickum and use C/A exclusively .

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Tuesday, August 18, 2015 8:36 AM

With today's adhesives technologies, mfgs can control the strength of the bond of pressure-sensitive adhesives.  Post-its and low tack masking tapes are specifically made low tack.  There are high tack pressure-sensitive adhesives too, like floor tiles, decorative coverings, etc.  They are not as strong as CA or other very strong adhesives but still pretty strong.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: hamburg michigan
Posted by fermis on Tuesday, August 18, 2015 5:11 AM

Bish

The CA will work fine. I think you will find anyone who uses these Eduard parts attaches them with CA, and i have not had or heard of any issues. I don't know why Eduard bother with this self adhesive poarts, it makes thing more hassle than its worth.

 

Ditto

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Tuesday, August 18, 2015 12:44 AM

The CA will work fine. I think you will find anyone who uses these Eduard parts attaches them with CA, and i have not had or heard of any issues. I don't know why Eduard bother with this self adhesive poarts, it makes thing more hassle than its worth.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    April 2015
Eduard Self Adhesive Photoetch
Posted by Mopar Madness on Monday, August 17, 2015 7:58 PM

Good evening folks,

I've purchased a photoetch set for my Airfix 1/72 Fw 190 A-8 that I'll be diving in to this weekend.  Ive never used the Eduard colored self adhesive sets.  In fact, the last photo etch set I worked with was 20 years ago.  So, Ive checked my usual resources and can't seem to find any info on what kind of adhesive is on the back of these parts.  Its my understanding that its activated by pressure, i.e., I press down on the part and the adhesive becomes actiavted.  "Self Adhesive" doesnt sound like a permanent bond...  Post-It notes are self adhesive too. Wink  So, Im going to use some form of CA glue but wanted to make sure it won't have an adverse reaction with the factory adhesive.  I've read many reviews and tutorials but nobody discussed long-term adhesion or durability when using CA glue with self adhesive parts.  Has anyone used CA glue on these self adhesive parts and possibly have any info as far as "long term" durability goes?   In otrher words, are there there any parts rattling around in that perfectly assembled cockpit?

Thanks in advance for any help!

Chad

God, Family, Models...

At the plate: 1/48 Airfix Bf109 & 1/35 Tamiya Famo

On deck: Who knows!

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