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How can I fix this?

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  • Member since
    August 2015
How can I fix this?
Posted by Cat Daddy on Monday, September 14, 2015 11:26 AM

I bought an Accurate Minatures airplane kit at the flea market yesterday and didn't check the box contents thouroughly enough. When I got home, I found this surprise in the bottom:

It's the cockpit instrument panel. It's a clear part that is supposed to have  decals showing the instruments applied to. Whoever owned this kit before me applied the decals on the wrong side and then painted the entire thing black. I don't know if he (and I assume it's a he) used acrylic or enamel paint.

So, any way to rescue this part? Any way to reproduce the instrument panel if I can't save the applied decal?

I think the original builder realized the magnitude of his blunder and shelved the kit because everything else is still attached to the sprues and the sprues are factory sealed.

Thanks in advance for your advice and help.

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Monday, September 14, 2015 11:32 AM

Easy fix. Try to get an Eduard pit set for your particular model and scale. It will benefit from the beautiful quality am parts Eduard puts out.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Bethlehem PA
Posted by the Baron on Monday, September 14, 2015 11:54 AM

Is there any raised relief on the part, especially for the dials?  Or are they just round holes through the part?

If the dials have raised detail, I'd just prime the whole thing, repaint it and drybrush the details.  If the dials are just round holes, I'd still just prime it, but get some instrument decals, like Mike Grant's (I use them, they're excellent) and use the decals for the dials.

The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.

 

 

  • Member since
    August 2015
Posted by Cat Daddy on Monday, September 14, 2015 12:07 PM

the Baron

Is there any raised relief on the part, especially for the dials?  Or are they just round holes through the part?

If the dials have raised detail, I'd just prime the whole thing, repaint it and drybrush the details.  If the dials are just round holes, I'd still just prime it, but get some instrument decals, like Mike Grant's (I use them, they're excellent) and use the decals for the dials.

 

 

I'll look up the Mike Grant decals. I'd like to get as much of the paint off as possible because it looks like it was applied with trowel. And the part looks like it wasn't cleaned up after being removed from the sprue.

The Eduard set mentioned above looks great, but it's double what I paid for the kit itself and there's already photoetched seatbelts in the box.

  • Member since
    May 2011
  • From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posted by Real G on Monday, September 14, 2015 12:38 PM

Toss the panel in some Purple Power cleaner.  Let is soak and check on it every so often.  Removal time will depend on the age, type, and thickness of the paint.  I have seen anywhere from 15 minutes to a day.  The Purple Power should not harm the clear plastic.  You might want to test a clear sprue from the kit though.  Mike Grant decals are terrific, but you will need a punch and die set unless you are realy good at trimming decal film from tiny round dianls.

“Ya ya ya, unicorn papoi!”

  • Member since
    March 2014
Posted by BarrettDuke on Monday, September 14, 2015 1:30 PM

I can't tell from the picture, but if the surface is smooth, you can put on a mask and sand the part back down to the plastic. If nothing else, you can certainly sand it smooth regardless of the type of paint. If you can't sand it because there are raised details, then try as suggested and soak it. Tamiya laquer thinner might be worth trying as well.

  • Member since
    August 2015
Posted by Cat Daddy on Monday, September 14, 2015 8:04 PM

Tamiya lacquer thinner took the paint and the decals off. Thanks. Now to figure out how to get instrument dials back on the panel. I have several good suggestions to consider...

 

Edit: The lacquer thinner did cloud up the clear part. I think I left it soaking too long. Fortunatelty, it's not a part that needs to be clear.

fox
  • Member since
    January 2007
  • From: Narvon, Pa.
Posted by fox on Monday, September 14, 2015 10:51 PM

I'm no expert, by any stretch of the imagination, but here's an idea that I have used on several planes that have won awards at shows.  You didn't say what scale the plane is, but because of the size of 1/72 and 1/48 planes this works.  I was making a Hobby Boss 1/72 Mig-3 and destroyed the inst. panel decal.  I searched the internet for pics of the cockpit so I could detail it and perhaps make my own panel.  Found good pics of the panel, and decided to try to copy the photo and shrink it to fit.  Long story short, it worked well with a couple light coats of Future.  Looked great.  The Mig-3 took a 3rd at the next show.  Did this on a couple more 1/72 and 1/48 planes.  Haven't built anything bigger in a long time so I don't know if it will look as well on them.  Hope that this helps a little.

Jim  Captain

 Main WIP: 

   On the Bench: Artesania Latina  (aka) Artists in the Latrine 1/75 Bluenose II

I keep hitting "escape", but I'm still here.

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Bethlehem PA
Posted by the Baron on Tuesday, September 15, 2015 12:08 PM

Cat Daddy
the Baron

Is there any raised relief on the part, especially for the dials?  Or are they just round holes through the part?

If the dials have raised detail, I'd just prime the whole thing, repaint it and drybrush the details.  If the dials are just round holes, I'd still just prime it, but get some instrument decals, like Mike Grant's (I use them, they're excellent) and use the decals for the dials.

 

I'll look up the Mike Grant decals. I'd like to get as much of the paint off as possible because it looks like it was applied with trowel. And the part looks like it wasn't cleaned up after being removed from the sprue.

The Eduard set mentioned above looks great, but it's double what I paid for the kit itself and there's already photoetched seatbelts in the box.

 
Sorry, I should have included a URL:  http://mikegrantdecals.com/shop/
 
For stripping the paint, I use Super Clean, an automotive degreaser.  It's not caustic, though you should still use gloves, and it works really well, softening paint in a couple of minutes.
 
Here is an alternative that I have used, too, with an image of an instrument panel.  I photocopied the IP, making several copies.  Using styrene card stock, I cut two pieces to the shape of the panel, then took one of the pieces, laid a photocopy of the panel over it as a template, and punched out the instrument faces with my punch and die set.  This gave me the face of the panel.  I painted this as appropriate, then sandwiched the other copy of the IP between the two pieces of styrene and glued it up with white glue.  I just added some clear acrylic (Future) in each of the instrument faces as a finish.
 
I've also used clear acetate for the overlay.  I save the clear plastic pieces used as stiffeners in the packaging for my dress shirts, for things like this.
 
Hope that helps!
Brad

The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.

 

 

  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Central USA
Posted by qmiester on Thursday, September 24, 2015 8:20 PM

To the best of my knowledge, all you have to do to literally destroy clear plastic plastic parts is just dampen them with laquer thinner. Stay away from it!  Just about any of the cleaners noted in this thread will work for removing paint and decals.  (Having said what I said about laquer thinner, you might try dipping the damaged clear parts in Future (or what the heck they are calling it this week).

Quincy
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