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A couple quick questions for the more experienced modellers here.
First of all, are fingerprint the fingerprints made visible by cyano fumes composed of cyano? Kind of like "fossilized" fingerprints?
And my second and main question, has anyone here used Cyano Wipe, and is it effective?
"Gaiety is the most outstanding feature of the Soviet Union." - Josef Stalin
Never heard of cyano wipe. I do have a bottle of debonder, that softens CA so you can undo glued parts, but I assume that is not what you mean. However, I have softened inadvertent glue spots on plastic and removed them when softened with isopropyl.
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
1. No.
2. I never have.
I also have never had the problem of fingerprints revealed by super glue. Reading some forensic how-to sites online, it doesn't sound like it's a simple process, requiring a sealed container, heat and humidity.
Has that problem come up? If so, I'd try some other remedies first, like a good cleaner. It sounds like the fingerprint is removable in the same way as if it had not been exposed to CA fumes.
One thing I did learn from reading these; cotton and CA have a strong and quick exothermic reaction. Which explains why drops of it seem to burn holes in my shirts. And I don't wear gloves when I am assembling models, but I am careful to wash my hands before starting, and snacks are not allowed at the bench.
Modeling is an excuse to buy books.
If I understand the question, the fumes from CA react with water vapor and can leave a white frosty deposit. I have used a damp Q-tip or even a tissue to get rid of it. I don't know if fingerprints will respond the same way, it probably depends on if the print is made of CA glue. Another tip, if you dip clear parts in Future the CA doesn't seem to leave the deposit. Hope this is helpful.
Ken
Ok, thanks. I was surfing the internet and someone on the UK Modeller forum posted something where he referenced a product called Cyano Wipe...sounds like more internet surfing for me! I'll let you know of my findings (if any).
It seems that there is a product called "Cyano Wipe", but it's a pretty small scale thing based in the UK. However, Goof-Off and a lot of other companies sell cyano remover, so I'll look into that. I'm having some fit issues with my first photoetch update set that I think is tied to overzealous cyano use.
Check out CA debonder, sold by probably who sells CA. It will dissolve CA bonds. Probably that is what's in the wipes. It works and I've used it to dissolve glued together fingers and to clear CA from applicators. Be careful though, it may not like all paints or finishes.
If the Goof-Off you spoke of comes in a metal can, do not, I say again, do not use it on your models - It will melt them!
I used it on a large PE piece, so luckily I avoided that :)
However, the cap and nozzle are plastic, so I don't know.
Don Stauffer Never heard of cyano wipe. I do have a bottle of debonder, that softens CA so you can undo glued parts, but I assume that is not what you mean. However, I have softened inadvertent glue spots on plastic and removed them when softened with isopropyl.
i have used debonder and a Qtip to clean up CYA that got outside the gluing area. don't soak the Qtip and take your time and you can clean up "overs".
Никто не Забыт (No one is Forgotten)Ничто не Забыто (Nothing is Forgotten)
Yeah, the Goof-Off brand CA Remover doesn't seem very good...I may have to buy something else.
checkmateking02An acceptable alternative to CA for attaching PE is white glue--Aleene's craft type or even simply Elmer's.
Have you tested that Gator Glue that the magazine seems to like?
I have the Gator glue in both the thick and thin and like it very much. It's my go to for clear parts. it fills gaps in windows and canopy frames vey well.
I have used it some for PE and found it adequate. it's flexible so the PE stays on when accidently bumped.
I'm finally retired. Now time I got, money I don't.
Nope, but I'd like to get some of it and try it out.
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