Suggestions regarding large wing root gaps.

For me it first depends upon if the wings mount bayonet style or a single lower wing with two upper halves. 

If it is bayonet style build I "spot" the wings. Dry fit, hold it up to the light. Grind a little bit where the wing touches the fuse. Repeat as needed.  I spot every major joint pair - wings to fuse, fuse halves, horizontal stabs to fuse. Done right and glued right the plastic weld formed by glueing oozes up out of the seam and eliminates the seam. 

If the wings are 1 piece lower half and two pcs uppers .... I've not had that problem. But what I'd do is split the lower wing and on my homemade joint I'd spot that until the uppers fit the fuse. Of course when the uppers contact the fuse you might be spotting both uppers and lowers but with care and patience one can get an almost perfect 100% joint contact. The only thing is that anyone who judges scale dimensions is going to probably notice if the wingspan is too short with this method. 

Files, grinders, sandpaper. Whatever suits. 

I used the stretched Sprue technique to fill the large gaps then Tenax them causing the Sprue to melt filling the gap and creating a solid join.

Very large gaps will result in a miss measurement on the kit manufacturers side.Not good to fill large gaps because of the extension of the large gap will make the area longer or larger than the others.Its best to get a better fit kit to start with.I.P.M.S. Contest see that.

Everyone,

Thank you again for all your help and suggestions! Douglas (aka roger_wilco)

Hi !

Been there, done that.

Here are some things I've used.

As so many have said, stretched sprue.  You can also use thin plastic, it comes in a whole variety of thicknesses.

On the suggestion to glue to top half of the root before the bottom, first check the dihedral of the prototype.  Not all parts gaps are on the bottom surface.

There may still be some small gap or "ridge lines" if you use sprue or thin plastic.  I like to use that red automotive putty to smooth out the whole thing.  You can thin it with lacquer thinner.  Put it on thin and layer it so that the top layer doesn't dry before the bottom layer. It drys relatively fast, especially when layered thin. You can smooth out the seam with a Q-tip dipped in lacquer thinnier, but use a light touch and damp not wet Q-tip to avoid damage to surface detail.  I've also read about using a paste of super glue and baking soda, but I haven't used that one.

Hey, this works for me.......have fun!

Chuck Davis

Another option that might work on a case-by-case basis is to spread the fuselage apart a bit by wedging a piece of sprue in place under the cockpit or wherever you have room.

 

I like older kits too, just for the "haven't seen that before factor".

Another option that might work on a case-by-case basis is to spread the fuselage apart a bit by wedging a piece of sprue in place under the cockpit or wherever you have room.

Gary,Don & GMorrison,

Thank you for your hints and suggestions. 

Cheers,Doug (aka roger_wilco)

Sounds to me like an airplane problem.  I'd try asking in the airplane forum.

Also, there is a great bunch of forums in the Tools, Techniques, and Reference Materials section.  The Techniques forum often discusses these sorts of problems- I'd ask there too.

I have found that stretched sprue quickly coated with brushed on cement welds everything together for a very strong joint.  The bigger the gap, the more strands of sprue you use.  Trim the exposed ends with a knife, sand lightly, and you're better off than with any putty.

Good Luck,

Gary