SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

Coating old/brittle decals (What to use?)

6124 views
13 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Saturday, January 16, 2016 9:01 AM

checkmateking02

Yes.  It really only takes a single, thin coat, usually.  I normally let it dry about half an hour, then trim and apply the decal.

One thing I've learned is to apply it before you trim the decal.  If you trim the decal first, and if the solution then runs over the side, it might bind the decal to the backing paper and make your life miserable.

Another pointer:  use a knife to trim the decal, if possible.  The pressure of scissors can still crack the decal ink.

 

Both excellent suggestions.  Indeed any coating that gets on the edges of a decal will hinder the seperation of the decal from the paper.  And, if you print inkjet decals, be sure to leave some margin on the paper for the same reason- do not print too close to edge of paper.

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Friday, January 15, 2016 10:51 AM

Yes.  It really only takes a single, thin coat, usually.  I normally let it dry about half an hour, then trim and apply the decal.

One thing I've learned is to apply it before you trim the decal.  If you trim the decal first, and if the solution then runs over the side, it might bind the decal to the backing paper and make your life miserable.

Another pointer:  use a knife to trim the decal, if possible.  The pressure of scissors can still crack the decal ink.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Green Bay, WI USA
Posted by echolmberg on Friday, January 15, 2016 8:54 AM

murph

 

 
+1!

I use this stuff exclusively.  It is fantastic.

 

Can I assume it's just something that gets brushed over the decal (and allowed to dry) before dunking it in water?

Eric

  • Member since
    April 2015
Posted by Wolfman_63 on Friday, January 15, 2016 6:04 AM

I have used the decal sealer spray that is used for making your own decals. As stated you need to trim very close to the edge. I will have to try the Microscale product.

I have also scanned in decal sheets of older models prior to using them. This has saved me a couple of times especially the larger size decals like tail art and such. If the decal gets damaged, you can print out another copy to replace it.

Website:

David's Scale Models - https://www.davidsscalemodels.com

 

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    March 2013
Posted by patrick206 on Thursday, January 14, 2016 4:40 PM

My vote goes to the Microscale product as well, even 40+ year old decals with a bad reputation for failing were treated then applied, without one breaking up. Great stuff.

  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: West of the rock and east of the hard place!
Posted by murph on Thursday, January 14, 2016 3:42 PM

checkmateking02

This stuff has always worked for me:

http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MI-12&

You can get it from a number of the usual sources (Squadron; Amazon; etc.).

 

+1!

I use this stuff exclusively.  It is fantastic.

Retired and living the dream!

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Wednesday, January 13, 2016 1:16 PM

checkmateking02

This stuff has always worked for me:

http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MI-12&

You can get it from a number of the usual sources (Squadron; Amazon; etc.).

 

 

Ditto

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Wednesday, January 13, 2016 11:18 AM

I know what you mean, Eric.  I usually put a thin coat of the decal film over any decals that are more than a few years old--just to be sure.  Some decals are not replaceable, and if you've got a kit all painted up for a specific appearance, having the decals go bad and shatter is pretty disconcerting.

Good luck with it!

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Wednesday, January 13, 2016 9:01 AM

I believe you get the best results using a product designed for that usage, so I use the Micro Scale decal coat.  Now, this is for decals that are disintegrating, or likely to, not for sealing decals after application (for that I use dullcoat or glosscoat).

BTW, there is a forum specially for decal questions, down near the bottom of the list.  Not used very much- it should be.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Green Bay, WI USA
Posted by echolmberg on Wednesday, January 13, 2016 8:08 AM

Thank you for the responses.  I'll give the metalizer sealer a try and report back how it worked.  I'm going to try it on some smaller decals first to see how it reacts.  As long as it doesn't destroy the decal, I'll be good with that.

 

Checkmateking, I think I might be able to find that stuff locally!  (Surprise, surprise!)  If I can track it down, I might give it a try.  At the rate that I build models, I get so worried about the decals decomposing before I can use them! Crying

Eric

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Tuesday, January 12, 2016 7:30 PM

This stuff has always worked for me:

http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MI-12&

You can get it from a number of the usual sources (Squadron; Amazon; etc.).

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: hamburg michigan
Posted by fermis on Tuesday, January 12, 2016 7:11 PM

I have used clear gloss lacquer...same stuff as MM Metalizer sealer...but WAY cheaper!!!

Spray a light coat over each decal, once finished, spray a slightly heavier coat over each again. When it comes time to place the decals, cut as to the original film as you can...if ya don't, you can get some nasty/flakey edges (from the sealer).

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Tuesday, January 12, 2016 5:57 PM

Try it. I've used Dullkote and Gloscote and they worked ok. I also tried clear acrylic artist fixative pray and that works. Just remember, you then have to cut the decal out exactly.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Green Bay, WI USA
Coating old/brittle decals (What to use?)
Posted by echolmberg on Tuesday, January 12, 2016 12:48 PM

Hi guys!  I'm about to apply some decals to my latest project using a set of after-market decals.  I've read where a couple of people had some issues with the larger decals breaking up and I was hoping to avoid this problem.  I know that Testors makes a decal bonder in a rattle can but I could have sworn I've heard other say that any clear coat will do.  Is this true?  I have a can of Testors metalizer sealer.  Do you think that would work on the decal sheet or should I use a bonder formulated specifically for decals?

Thanks!

Eric

JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.