modeling tools

I just used a new #11 Exacto blade to cut out the cockpit door on a Spitfire. It took a little time, but turned out very well.

Most razor saws tend to take away a bit too much plastic (I work in 72nd)...usually, I score the ends with the back of a blade (just to get a good groove), then use regular ole sewing thread (tie a loop for your thumb, wrap the extra around your index finger) like a saw. The friction melts the thread through the plastic. Having the groove helps keep the thread from wandering off course. Once the side edges are cut, I just score the front edge (with back of blade) until it gets deep enough that it can be bent and snapped off.

About a year ago I came across RB Productions Namo Razor saw blades that fit in an X-Acto type handle. The saw blades are etched stainless steel, super hard and last forever 

here is the link to the site

http://www.radubstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=77_112&products_id=430&zenid=c2db5d44188a5bfb39f10212063ba28d

The blades are really fine so you loose very little when cutting the part away. Here is what I bought my favourite is the triangular saw in the middle

Below is a picture of the saw in action although this particular saw is quite delicate

ardvark

fermibs, thx have heard about the thread, never tried but makes sense. have been starting with the back edge of #11, slow but fine cut . i'll try the thread, but any suggestions on how to anchor wing so as to have both hands to work with?

 

If photobucket wasn't being a PITA, I'd take an "in action" shot for ya. All I do is take about a 12" +/- piece of thread...tie a loop at one end. Wrap loop over thumb...leave about 2-3", wrap the rest around your index finger. That hand is your "saw", the other is free to hold the part...or any other activity you choose

(I'll do a little diggin...see if I can find a pic for ya.)

Found one...

You can see, I wrapped some tape around my thumb and finger....I was doing a lot of cutting, and the tape keeps the thread from digging in on ya.

Should also mention...this method does make a mess out of the edges...a little bit of work to clean em up is necessary.

I started using the thread method a while back and it has worked perfectly on any parts that I needed to remove.  

Jim  

The new photo-etched saw blades use up a lot less plastic than the Zona type saws, but they stick even worse.  I find I can lubricate the cutting with plain water.  Seems like those saws do a lot of melting of the plastic.  The lubrication with water works even on the Zona or X-acto saws, to a degree, but is almost a necessity on the PE ones.

Dang, these are some GREAT ideas here! Never thought about using thread to cut through plastic. I'm gonna hafta try that one soon.

Gary

I use the back edge of a #11 blade, scoring lightly as I go which usually takes several hundred passes depending on the plastic thickness.  

That's the way I always do it, too, plasticjunkie.