Testors Primer rattle can fix

I have yet to find an agent to strip primer, I know Windex will strip acrylics bare, but I believe you will get a definitive answer if you post this in the paint forum, good luck.

Sanding it off will not work. There are strippers available on the market, I use one from Squadron called "Chameleon". Others use brake fluid, just be sure to dispose any of these properly. Soak, go at it with a toothbrush.

I've used WD-40 to get the stuff off my hands but you'd have to wash the heck out of the model to get rid of the WD-40.  The longer it cures, the harder it will be to remove.

I've used Easy-Off oven cleaner with good results.  Just put your parts in a plastic bag and spray liberally with the oven cleaner.

There are different kinds now, so if you can find the regular, go with it.

Gary

I use the automotive de-greaser SuperClean.  It's not nearly as caustic as oven cleaner, and you can use a batch of it over and over.  I first used it, after reading about it on the Agape Modeling forum, for removing the chrome from the plated parts of the Red Baron Hot Rod kit.  It removed the chrome in under 2 minutes, leaving the parts squeaky-clean, literally, since it also removed any grease.  I use it now to strip paint from styrene, resin and metal.  I let the pieces soak for at least 5 minutes, then begin scrubbing gently with an ols toothbrush.  The longer you let the piece soak, the more the paint just dissolves into the solution.

You can immerse your model in it, or you can soak paper towel or a rag in it and apply it, though that will take longer.

I use old glass baking dishes, and glass jars, for soaking parts in the liquid.

I also use it now, instead of dishwashing liquid, in the solution I use to clean the sprues of mold release agents before I start assembling a kit.  Just a couple of drops.

At about eight bucks a gallon at Walmart, for a product that I can use over and over, it's a bargain.  And it also has household uses, uncloging drains, from example, or cleaning up oily or greasy stains on surfaces, cloth.

Hope that helps!

Brad

the Baron

I use the automotive de-greaser SuperClean.  It's not nearly as caustic as oven cleaner, and you can use a batch of it over and over.  I first used it, after reading about it on the Agape Modeling forum, for removing the chrome from the plated parts of the Red Baron Hot Rod kit.  It removed the chrome in under 2 minutes, leaving the parts squeaky-clean, literally, since it also removed any grease.  I use it now to strip paint from styrene, resin and metal.  I let the pieces soak for at least 5 minutes, then begin scrubbing gently with an ols toothbrush.  The longer you let the piece soak, the more the paint just dissolves into the solution.

You can immerse your model in it, or you can soak paper towel or a rag in it and apply it, though that will take longer.

I use old glass baking dishes, and glass jars, for soaking parts in the liquid.

I also use it now, instead of dishwashing liquid, in the solution I use to clean the sprues of mold release agents before I start assembling a kit.  Just a couple of drops.

At about eight bucks a gallon at Walmart, for a product that I can use over and over, it's a bargain.  And it also has household uses, uncloging drains, from example, or cleaning up oily or greasy stains on surfaces, cloth.

Hope that helps!

Brad

---

I stand corrected.

 

And after you've done any of the above enough times, you'll REALLY pay attention with those undercoats.

the Baron

I use the automotive de-greaser SuperClean.  It's not nearly as caustic as oven cleaner, and you can use a batch of it over and over.  I first used it, after reading about it on the Agape Modeling forum, for removing the chrome from the plated parts of the Red Baron Hot Rod kit.  It removed the chrome in under 2 minutes, leaving the parts squeaky-clean, literally, since it also removed any grease.  I use it now to strip paint from styrene, resin and metal.  I let the pieces soak for at least 5 minutes, then begin scrubbing gently with an ols toothbrush.  The longer you let the piece soak, the more the paint just dissolves into the solution.

You can immerse your model in it, or you can soak paper towel or a rag in it and apply it, though that will take longer.

I use old glass baking dishes, and glass jars, for soaking parts in the liquid.

I also use it now, instead of dishwashing liquid, in the solution I use to clean the sprues of mold release agents before I start assembling a kit.  Just a couple of drops.

At about eight bucks a gallon at Walmart, for a product that I can use over and over, it's a bargain.  And it also has household uses, uncloging drains, from example, or cleaning up oily or greasy stains on surfaces, cloth.

Hope that helps!

Brad

 

I have to agree regarding Super Clean-just be sure to use some surgical gloves-Super Clean is very caustic and will dry your hands out very quickly.

bobbaily

 

the Baron

I use the automotive de-greaser SuperClean.  It's not nearly as caustic as oven cleaner, and you can use a batch of it over and over.  I first used it, after reading about it on the Agape Modeling forum, for removing the chrome from the plated parts of the Red Baron Hot Rod kit.  It removed the chrome in under 2 minutes, leaving the parts squeaky-clean, literally, since it also removed any grease.  I use it now to strip paint from styrene, resin and metal.  I let the pieces soak for at least 5 minutes, then begin scrubbing gently with an ols toothbrush.  The longer you let the piece soak, the more the paint just dissolves into the solution.

You can immerse your model in it, or you can soak paper towel or a rag in it and apply it, though that will take longer.

I use old glass baking dishes, and glass jars, for soaking parts in the liquid.

I also use it now, instead of dishwashing liquid, in the solution I use to clean the sprues of mold release agents before I start assembling a kit.  Just a couple of drops.

At about eight bucks a gallon at Walmart, for a product that I can use over and over, it's a bargain.  And it also has household uses, uncloging drains, from example, or cleaning up oily or greasy stains on surfaces, cloth.

Hope that helps!

Brad

 

 I have to agree regarding Super Clean-just be sure to use some surgical gloves-Super Clean is very caustic and will dry your hands out very quickly

 

It sounds like the Purple Power I use for stripping. I'd used it on resin and it worked like a charm, but I wasn't sure if it would harm styrene or not. But when some crappy Model Master paint screwed up a '63 Vette I was building, I decided to try it. A couple of hours' worth of soaking didn't do much, so I left it overnight, then fished it out and rinsed it, after which I used an old toothbrush to get most of the paint off. I did a second soak to remove the rest. It doesn't seem to attack plastic at all, but I do recommend using gloves as a precaution.

I have to ask the OP what type of primer is it, meaning enamel or acrylic. Since he specifically says Testors I assumed enamel. I know it could be either, but if it is indeed enamel then a soft cloth or paper towel with some enamel thinner soaked into it will take the primer right off, with no effect on the plastic at all. I keep a can of enamel thinner on my desk mainly for thinning and cleaning my airbrush, but it works for paint removal as well. A year or two ago, I wanted to refinish a very old model. An overnight soak in a glass bowl full of that stuff and my "refinish" became a "rebuild", as it not only took off 20-year-old paint but also the glue, leaving an almost-new kit.

If the primer is acrylic then we've gone beyond me and I have no idea.

Assuming you were using enamel, what I have done in the past is to use enamel thinner, a soft wide brush and a plastic container as the ones from the microwave dinners. I get some enamel thinner from Home Depot and pour some in the container. Dip the brush in the thinner and brush away till the paint or primer comes off right into the container. You can really clean up the model this way then wipe down with paper towels and let it dry. Use some rubbing alcohol to wipe it down and clean the plastic.

The issue with rattle cans is that you have very little control of the paint flow as opposed to an air brush. Use light quick passes to avoid paint buildup And remember to shake the can very well and in between.

You can use the same technique but using either ammonia or Windex to remove acrylic paint.

Testor's Polly S "ELO" (Easy Lift Off) is good for removing paint and decals.

Well jonfrost we have given you lost of ideas but heard no feedback from you. Did you resolve your issue?