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Question about using Future wax

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  • Member since
    November 2016
Question about using Future wax
Posted by skeletor on Saturday, January 7, 2017 11:35 PM

So, I'm about to take my first crack at using Future wax to coat one of my models (a Halifax bomber).  Before I apply it, I'd like to find out if anybody can advise one way or the other whether or not it can be airbrushed onto engine cowlings.  I'm concerned that it might be too viscous, and will create spiderwebs between each piece of cowling.  My other option is to leave them off and airbrush future onto them separately (I'd rather not pursue this option).  Thanks for any advice that can be provided.

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Sunday, January 8, 2017 12:09 AM

Future is self leveling and is very thin. I actually get better results if I hand brush several light coats building up the gloss as I go. The time I sprayed Future it came out a bit pebbly.

Another alternative is using Alclad Aqua Gloss which sprays beautifully and is similar to Future with less curing time. I highly recommend when using Future to wait at least 48 hours before using decal solutions over it. With Aqua Gloss you can decal within a couple of hours after application but I rather wait overnight just in case. 

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Sunday, January 8, 2017 10:12 AM

plasticjunkie

Future is self leveling and is very thin. I actually get better results if I hand brush several light coats building up the gloss as I go. The time I sprayed Future it came out a bit pebbly.

Another alternative is using Alclad Aqua Gloss which sprays beautifully and is similar to Future with less curing time. I highly recommend when using Future to wait at least 48 hours before using decal solutions over it. With Aqua Gloss you can decal within a couple of hours after application but I rather wait overnight just in case. 

 

I also highly recommend the Alclad Aqua Gloss

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Sunday, January 8, 2017 10:34 AM

Tojo72

 

 
plasticjunkie

Future is self leveling and is very thin. I actually get better results if I hand brush several light coats building up the gloss as I go. The time I sprayed Future it came out a bit pebbly.

Another alternative is using Alclad Aqua Gloss which sprays beautifully and is similar to Future with less curing time. I highly recommend when using Future to wait at least 48 hours before using decal solutions over it. With Aqua Gloss you can decal within a couple of hours after application but I rather wait overnight just in case. 

 

 

 

I also highly recommend the Alclad Aqua Gloss

 

Hmm, sounds like it's worth a try.

Just FYI Future is not a "wax". It's a clear acrylic, that seems to be soluble with ammonia. It's really thin, so much so that runs can be a problem.

I'm also better at hand brushing it than airbrushing. There, I get a fast build-up and runs.

 

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    November 2016
Posted by skeletor on Sunday, January 8, 2017 7:20 PM

Thanks for the replies.  I'll give aqua gloss a try, I hadn't heard of it before.

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Longmont, Colorado
Posted by Cadet Chuck on Sunday, January 8, 2017 8:30 PM

My motto is "Future is for floors, not models."  I always suggest people use a clear lacquer or acrylic intended for use on plastic models, from a manufacturer who specializes in hobby paints.

Gimme a pigfoot, and a bottle of beer...

  • Member since
    November 2016
Posted by Gerhard on Monday, January 9, 2017 6:26 AM
Tamiya Clear is also a good option.
  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Monday, January 9, 2017 7:05 AM

Cadet Chuck

My motto is "Future is for floors, not models."  

 

Well Chuck, I disagree with your assessment of Future but the product has so many outstanding features that deserves recognition. I see Future as a valuable tool in our hobby but I understand those that have a different view. 

Future is clear acrylic gloss and its use can be adapted to our hobby just like any household item we drag into our arsenal of gadgets. I have mixed it with flat acrylic paint to spray it as gloss paint with excellent results. Dipping canopies in Future increases clarity to the max and gets rid of small scratches or blemishes. Decals that refuse to lay down and curl will stay put with the application of Future. I really don't have anything negative to say about it other than Aqua Gloss sprays smoother and cures faster. I use both products and they work equally well.

It's like saying that electric cords are for appliances and solder for soldering things only, yet we adapt them for scrtachbuilding wiring and plumbing in our projects. Then you have the commercially ready made products like the AK Interactive Chipping Medium that's basically hairspray in a small bottle that cost $8 or more plus shipping. You get the same results from decanting cheap Aquanet hairspray from the Dollar store. But then again, some modelers rather pay the higher price tag for convenience of the ready mixed washes, etc.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Bethlehem PA
Posted by the Baron on Monday, January 9, 2017 9:30 AM

Cadet Chuck

My motto is "Future is for floors, not models."  I always suggest people use a clear lacquer or acrylic intended for use on plastic models, from a manufacturer who specializes in hobby paints.

 

 
I disagree, but suum quique, or "To each, his own."  I use Future to make clear parts clearer, and as a prep coat for decals.  Future is also one of the things I use to adhere clear parts, along with white glue or styrene glue, depending on the situation.  I also use it as a clear sealer coat on my toy soldiers, even those painted with gloss enamels.
 
As for application, as plasticjunkie noted, Future is self-leveling, and yes, can be applied with an airbrush or by hand.  I have used both methods.  When airbrushing it, I apply it undiluted, in thin coats, at about 15 psi.  Whether airbrushing or hand-brushing, if you get runs, drips or pooling, you can use a diluted ammonia solution (eg, glass cleaning solutions like Windex) to dissolve the acrylic again and then let it level and cure. 
 
As a prep for decals, I have also used Future as a setting solution--though I do use Solvaset, too.  Along with applying it as a general gloss base for decaling, I have also spot-applied it with a brush to the place where the decal will go, then laid the decal down, and put a little more Future over it.  All of this helps fill the tiny pits or voids in the surface, where air can get trapped and cause silvering with any clear parts of a decal.
 
I applied DullCote over it, and I've never had any problems with the matte lacquer over Future.
 
I do understand the idea of buying a product made by a manufacturer specifically for our application.  For example, I use Tamiya acrylics, and I only use Tamiya's acrylic thinner with their paints.  But I also use craft store acrylics, which are not made with scale modeling in mind.  The point is, if you're curious, try it and see how it works, and if you can make it work in your application, then why not?
 
Best regards,
Brad

The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.

 

 

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: hamburg michigan
Posted by fermis on Monday, January 9, 2017 6:11 PM

Cadet Chuck

My motto is "Future is for floors, not models."  I always suggest people use a clear lacquer or acrylic intended for use on plastic models, from a manufacturer who specializes in hobby paints.

 

I WAS in total agrrement, after my first couple attempts at usung Future as a gloss coat...same goes for dipping canopies(results were always craptastic). I did find a good use for it though.

I use enamel paints and gloss with Minwax gloss lacquer(thinned 50/50 for the a/b...and a quart will cost less than a couple bottle of "hobby specific" gloss lacquer). Future comes into play when it's time to do decals. Brush on a little puddle where the decal goes, place decal, proceed as usual. I used to get a fair amount of silvering, even with the gloss and solva-set...none with Future.

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Monday, January 9, 2017 7:24 PM

Fermis

the trick to using it on canopies is that you need to leave one of the attachment points on to use as a handle. After dipping it in Future you wick the liquid that settles. I use a piece of porous cardbord to absorb the liquid then I use a plastic container to cover the canopy preventing lint to stick on it. It's dry to the touch within 30 minutes and if you don't like the results then wipe Windex on to remove the dry Future then try again.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Bethlehem PA
Posted by the Baron on Tuesday, January 10, 2017 11:55 AM

What Fermis said, about wicking the excess away.  My rig is a piece of paper towel and a Chinese takeout soup container.  I'll dip a piece in Future, let the excess drain off, then place the piece on a piece of paper towel on the upturned lid of the soup container, then place the container over it.  That provides as dust-free an environment as I can conjure up, while I let the Future cure.

I do let it go overnight, though, just to be sure.

The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Tuesday, January 10, 2017 12:44 PM

And, if you screw up the canopy frame painting, dip in Windex, remove everything, start over.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Austin, TX
Posted by smeosky on Tuesday, January 10, 2017 3:21 PM

Future is a great tool to use and is quite economic too. I found future quite pebbly when airbrushing it straight out of the bottle. It is sometimes hard for me to achieve a uniform finish this way. By adding a bit of the Tamiya acrylic thinner (white cap), maybe a 2:1 future to thinner ratio, it goes on suuuper smooth and results in about an eggshell finish after about 2 light coats. Not overly glossy but good enough for decals. 

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: New Jersey
Posted by 68GT on Tuesday, January 10, 2017 5:29 PM

If you have a junk model or one your not too fond of then use that one as a testbed for the Future.

I crank the presure up to 40psi and give it a squirt or two of windex.  I mist on a first coat and wait a bit and then hit it a little hevier.  I just do it by feel now and could vary each time I use it due to temp and humidity.

On Ed's bench, ???

  

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