One big problem with decal solvents is that once you apply them, you cannot touch them again in the slightest, else they will permanently distort, until they are completely dry.

I am very reluctant to apply decal solvents because of the risk of damage.  I will apply setting solution several times before I resort to the nuclear option of decal solvents.

And, specifically addressing the question, when I do resort to the solvent, I start out with a very light coat, and only go to a heavier coat if the light coat does not work.

Interesting. The wrinkles are normal with Micro sol/set. I am not sure how much you could have used to damage them, i use quite a bit. I usually apply the soloution, leave for a few minutes, then gently press down with a bit of foam and repeat if needed.

Just checking, have you glossed the surface before applying the decals? If not, that is the likely cause of the problem.

You didn't mention the decal brand but I always got this when using the red label on Hasegawa decals. 

So I generally don't use Hasegawa decals at all anymore, replacing them with aftermarket. And only using the blue label when I have to use them. 

Thanks for the responses. Come to think of it, permanent wrinkles only happened to the decals that came with the Tamiya 1/12 Bimota Tesi I've been working on. But it sounds like it's safer to go with additional lighter coats rather then one heavy coat.

Ye, i would definetly advise on multiple light coats. Also, are you applying some to the model before placing the decal.

Bish

Ye, i would definetly advise on multiple light coats. Also, are you applying some to the model before placing the decal.

 

Typically, over a glossy finish. I apply water, float the decal on top and move into the final position, wick away remaining water, let dry, and then apply decal solvent. I don't use microset instead of water but maybe I should..

I apply a drop to the kit, as the bottle recomends. After soaking, i touch the decal and backing to a bit of tissue to wick away some of the after, then apply.

Apply a drop of Prell dish washing liquid gel to your decal water and this will take care of the problem.Make sure you mix it up good.Also apply the decal solution at the edges around the decal.not on top of decal because the decal solution is very powerful if you dose it .Some after market decals have a vinal material mix that some decal solutions will attack.

Prell dish washing gel will help the decal slide better.It will not attack the decal adhesive.You can also add a few drops of liquid decal film  to the mix which will make it real good.good luck..Happy modeling.

I use SolvaSet, and the same thing happens, decals from various manufacturers will wrinkle, but as others have noted in their description of Micro-Sol, the wrinkles smooth out as the solution dries and the decal film dries and sets.

When I've had wrinkling make it past the drying stage, I have applied additional amounts of the setting solution--and yes, as some of the others have noted, in small amounts--re-dissolving the decal and then setting it again as it dries.  Sometimes it's been necessary to use a needle or a sharp (ie, new) Nr. 11 blade to make cuts or holes in the film, to help the film settle down again, without wrinkles.

And when there were still wrinkles, at that point, I carefully sanded them out, using a piece of a green scouring pad, and touched them up with paint.

The most troublesome decals I've used so far, were the national insignia and squadron codes in EagleCal's "Little Chief" set, for 1/48 P-47Ds.  The insignia and squadron codes all had some wrinkling that just would not go away, though the decal settled down absolutely thin and flat otherwise.  The squadron codes were prone to flaking, too, which I had to touch up with paint, and some Future.  But the rest of the decals in the set were just fine, like the nose art, and the stencils.

Hello!

I've had this problem (permanent wrinkles) when I tried setting solutions (MicroSol, Solvaset, Mr Mark Softer) on Hasegawa decals. I didn't really try it yet, but my friend told me that the trick here is to apply the decal solvent here and then to remove it right on with a piece of tissue at the same time pressing the decal into the surface detail. You can do this on Hasegawa decals, because the decal solvent doesn't dissolve it completely - you can touch the decals even after they had been partially attacked by the solution - but that's only the Hasegawa decals, other brands really dissolve and that's probably also why the wrinkles aren't permanent on other brands.

I hope it helps - good luck with your decals and have a nice day

Paweł