bondo?

The members here will give you their way of solving this problem. All of them will be ways that work well. You just have to find which one works well for you.

My . The way I do it is to use the red Bondo. I used to use the blue one but that is no longer available in my area. I get a small empty jar the size of MM paints and fill it 1/2 way with the Bondo and then add Lacquer thinner to the thickness that I need. After using the mix, I close up the jar until the next time I need it. If the jar does not seal tightly and some of the Lacquer thinner evaporates, when needed just add a little more Lacquer thinner until you get the thickness that you want. This has worked for me for years.

Hope you find a way that you like. 

Jim  

Fox is referring to the spot putty or glazing putty, rather that than the body filler that needs to be mixed with a hardner.

I use Tamiya white putty, and have a tube of perfect Plastic Putty on order.  The PPP is water based and supposedly doesn't shrink like some others, and can be worked with a damp Q-tip to help eliminate sanding in some areas.

I used to use squadron putty but have recently swicthed to PPP. I have not had any shrinkage issues and it sands nicley and as mentioned can be cleaned up with water.

I have never found i needed any special primer.

I currently use the Bondo (brand) spot and glazing putty, but there are a myriad of things that work.  Fillers are a popular thread in the Tools, Techniques and Reference Materials section of the forums.  Check that area for frequent threads on seam filling and putty.

To second the other Bondo votes, I like it thinned with LT and I especially like the strength of it. Very durable in place and still files/sands well. I use it for major repairs and large area filling.

Of late for small areas, my all round faves are PPP and Tamiya. PPP is most useful for me, for the ability to use a damp Q-tip for shaping and removing excess on seams, etc.

I recently used PPP for fairing in the fit of a canopy to fuselage, the gap was a bit wide. When damp Q-tip passed over the filled gap it looked perfect as it was, literally next to nothing further was needed. A little 1200 grit over the area beside the filler, left it all ready to paint.

If not filled that gap would have required filing the canopy base for proper fit, PPP bailed me out quickly, I find it very useful and efficient. I add a drop of water to the filler while in the tube top, stir it around to mix and apply with a tiny metal spatula, or toothpick. Good stuff, I think.

For small scratches and such, I'm finding Badger's Stynylrez primer applied with a toothpick fills them, or small seam lines really well. It sands quickly with a level finish, then the spot is already primed.

Patrick 

vallejo have a plastic putty with a very small applicator , damp cotton bud to clean , next to no sanding ,