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Newbie attempt at seam filling

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  • Member since
    September 2017
Newbie attempt at seam filling
Posted by MrDave on Tuesday, October 17, 2017 5:45 PM

https://www.use.com/NVByQ

 1st, Hopefully my image will display by using Use.com

2nd, I am filling these seams with Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer G.  I have applied several layers with a brush.  I have let it dry over night.  Most of the "deeper" seams seem to require several applications.

Is this normal?  

Thanks.
In Him
Mr. Dave

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Tuesday, October 17, 2017 5:59 PM

Perfect Plastic Putty requires one application. Apply, let dry for an hour or two and sand.

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Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: Pineapple Country, Queensland, Australia
Posted by Wirraway on Wednesday, October 18, 2017 6:45 AM
Of course there are purists who maintain that you don't need to use putty on seams. Letting the glue soften the plastic before pushing the parts together will produce a line of melted plastic which is scraped off with a hobby knife and sanded. Wing roots are a different kettle of fish, I do use putty there.

"Growing old is inevitable; growing up is optional"

" A hobby should pass the time - not fill it"  -Norman Bates

 

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  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Wednesday, October 18, 2017 8:39 AM

With solvent based putties, it does take several coats of putty to fill some seams.  The putty shrinks as it sets.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    March 2013
Posted by patrick206 on Wednesday, October 18, 2017 2:06 PM

I also vote for Perfect Plastic Putty, being that it's not solvent based I find it has far less shrinkage. I work it well into the seams with a metal spatula, then run a thin bead over that, to compensate for any minor shrinkage that may occur.

Usually one application does it, and it sands really easily.

Patrick

  • Member since
    May 2015
Posted by Griffin25 on Wednesday, October 18, 2017 2:43 PM

Your USE photo is a link to the photo not the picture itself BTW. You have to click on Generate HTML & Image Code below the pic and then choose/copy Images For Message Boards then paste that into your post. 

 

 

Griffin

  • Member since
    September 2017
Posted by MrDave on Wednesday, October 18, 2017 2:45 PM

Thanks for the confirmation.  I have used PPP and liked that I could use water to clean up the seam and wipe the excess away.  Very little sanding.  I am still in my learning curve as to what works and what doesn't.  Of course now I am faced with a lot of sanding.

Thanks again!

Thanks.
In Him
Mr. Dave

AT6
  • Member since
    December 2005
  • From: Fresno
Posted by AT6 on Thursday, October 19, 2017 12:57 AM

I've started useing Spackle as my filler on wing roots and and with a little Future as a sealer seems to work.

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Bethlehem PA
Posted by the Baron on Tuesday, October 24, 2017 5:01 PM

Wirraway

Of course there are purists who maintain that you don't need to use putty on seams.

I wouldn't say someone's a purist, if he prefers one method or another to deal with a seam.  I use both methods-the "squeeze" method with liquid styrene cement, and putty-Squadron white, thinned with acetone.  It depends on the situation.  Whichever works for anyone, is best for him.

I also use stretched sprue, or even scraps of styrene card stock, and liquid cement, depending on the size of the seam, or gap.

The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.

 

 

  • Member since
    July 2013
  • From: Chicago area
Posted by modelmaker66 on Wednesday, October 25, 2017 5:22 PM

the Baron
 
Wirraway

Of course there are purists who maintain that you don't need to use putty on seams.

 

 

I wouldn't say someone's a purist, if he prefers one method or another to deal with a seam.  I use both methods-the "squeeze" method with liquid styrene cement, and putty-Squadron white, thinned with acetone.  It depends on the situation.  Whichever works for anyone, is best for him.

I also use stretched sprue, or even scraps of styrene card stock, and liquid cement, depending on the size of the seam, or gap.

 

I'll Second that! Well said Baron

  • Member since
    June 2014
  • From: New Braunfels , Texas
Posted by Tanker - Builder on Thursday, October 26, 2017 11:22 AM

Hi !, Mr.Dave ;

  I do somethng most don't , I add a little Sprue Glue to each joint .Wait a few and then squish the whole thing together . The Sprue -Glue is the same color as the plastic  ,so .When I get to trimming and sanding there's no seam left !

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Thursday, October 26, 2017 11:58 AM

Tanker - Builder

Hi !, Mr.Dave ;

  I do somethng most don't , I add a little Sprue Glue to each joint .Wait a few and then squish the whole thing together . The Sprue -Glue is the same color as the plastic  ,so .When I get to trimming and sanding there's no seam left !

 

Tb how do you make your sprue glue? I have tried liquid cement with small sprue pieces to melt them  but no good results.

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Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    March 2005
Posted by philo426 on Thursday, October 26, 2017 12:55 PM

I use Bondo automotuve spot putty,I dip the tube in warm water and apply it with a small flat bladed screwdriver.I tape on either side of the seam to a low me to smooth it on and peel back the tape to remove the excess puttty.when it is dry, I wet sand it with 320 grit sandpaper,one application is usually enough.

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: NC
Posted by out04 on Thursday, October 26, 2017 1:28 PM

I use Bondo spot putty, Tamiya white putty, Squadron green putty, medium CA, Mr. Surfacer 500, or melted styrene (with MEK) when I need to rescribe.

Some require multiple applications, especially when the gap is deep.

  • Member since
    June 2014
  • From: New Braunfels , Texas
Posted by Tanker - Builder on Friday, October 27, 2017 3:26 PM

Ah ! P.J.

 Here's what I do . I take a New bottle of Tamiya green label and put half or more , Maybe three quarters in a different bottle . Then I take the remaining glue and cut sprue and put it directly in the left-over New Glue . There is this .You must stirr occassionally for at least the first week . Don't expect it to liquify immediately .

 When it's about the thickness of Natural maple syrup or Honey you are there . Now if you want thicker , just add more sprue . The shelf life is about a year or more , in a 60  or 70 degree dark cool spot .( inside a cabinet ) .

 Note :

 You cannot and should NOT expect to glue parts together with this . It is a styrene glue and plastic Filler . It's is , after all made from the very plastic your models are made from .The nice part ? You can even do it in clear ! 

 I got in the habit of making a lot of grey because of the grey that planes and many model cars are made from . No off color filler that way .

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Friday, October 27, 2017 9:26 PM

Thanks TB I'll give it a try!

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

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