Bulk Enamel Primer for airbrush>>?

Does it have to be enamel primer?  I'm looking into buying Duplicolor Auto primer/sealer by the quart but it's laquer. I experimented with the rattle can of it and it works very well.

Does it have to be enamel? Enamels have pretty much gone away in commercial painting applications.

If you are OK with lacquer based primers, you have many more choices. My personal favorite is Alclad Microfiller & Primer. It comes in three colors, sprays great, sands easily and I think it's cheap at about $7 for a four ounce bottle from Scalehobbiest. For bigger projects, Tamiya's rattle can Fine Surface Primers are another favorite.

I'm sure others will weigh in with their recommendations. Some auto modellers like products from automotive paint stores, which carry a whole bunch of primers, both synthetic lacquers and waterborne types.

Hope this helps get the conversation started!

Mike 

Badgers' Blurb below:

STYNYLREZ WATER BASED ACRYLIC POLYURETHANE EASY APP SURFACE PRIMER
The perfect prime, every time
Simple and easy application
Self leveling detail enhancing coverage 
Excellent adhesion and durability
Dries to a hard flat finish
For use on plastics, metals, woods,resin, various other substrates
Simple and easy clean up

Really like the stuff, check your local supplier for pricing

I use hardware store enamel thinner to both thin and clean enamel paint for my airbrush.  There is some synthetic thinner, just labeled paint thinner, that is real junk.  This stuff is not water clear, but rather like very thin milk. It has solids that participate out, that can screw up a paint job or clog your airbrush.  Unfortunately, it is sold in polyethylene jugs that are not transparent, so you cannot see it before you buy it.

As long as a container says either turpentine or mineral spirits it should be okay.  I buy it in gallon jugs from my hardware store.  Works fine.

 

Thanks everyone. I suppose that it is "enamel" is not so important, more than the fact it NOT be "acrylic" primer. Lacquer primer would likely work just fine. Maybe I should just "decant" spray-can primer and spray it out of the airbrush.... For those that "decant", is it 100% necessary to decant it into a jar, and wait for it to "degas" overnight? Or can it just be decanted and used immediately>? Don, I think you misread my post- I am asking about primer. I also use the hardware-store thinner in the metal cans. I think they are orange cans with blue... Thanks! Rudy

I decant enamel primers from cans as well.  Many cans at the auto and hardware stores marked as primer are really just grey paint so double check.  Dupli color tends to sell real primer.  

I also thin Mr surfacer into something I can shoot through an airbrush and I also use alclads primers.  I with you, acrylic primers can suck it, they just do not bite the plastic like enamels and laquers.

I have decanted right into my AB cup with no issues for many brands.

I prefer tamiya super fine primer..it sands great and comes in gray and white ..i think it also comes in black but have not seen that color in Canada. I decant it in a old tamiya bottle..best to leave the top lose just a bit to de gas it for a couple of hours .to speed it up i harm my hands up this helps to boil off the propellet. If you don't do this the paint will be under pressure and as soon as you crack open the lid (BOOM) ...paint all over the place ...im working on something that will de gas the paint in seconds. This will save time and easy to use.

5-high