Gluing clear?

I use the UV Laser Hardening glue.  The glue supply and a laser or LED is in the same pen.  You put down the clear glue, and when the part is in place, you activate the laser for six seconds and it hardens.  It is much stronger then the PVA based window glue, and will not fog the windows or canopies like CA does.  The stuff looks expensive, but I was surprised by how much glue there is in the pen. I believe I built five or six models with my first pen.  I first saw it advertised on TV, but then found it at my local hardware/building supply store ( Menards)

Friends are going to, and are finding it at many stores.

 

Believe it or not, I have found that using Liquitex acrylic matte medium to be an excellent glue for clear parts. It is a gel medium that I use it mainly for groundwork, but one day I decided to try it out as a canopy glue. After the "glue" dried, I decided the canopy was a little askew, so I tried to break it off and have another go. I actually had trouble removing the darn thing! With any other white glue, all you have to do is breathe on it and the canopy pops off. With this stuff, I had to grip the canopy between my thumb and fingers and wiggle it, a lot, before it came off. It was a real struggle.

Another good tip with this stuff is you can mix acrylic paint into it before using it to install clear parts. I added paint to match the interior color. This is optional, as the matte medium dries clear.

mississippivol

Quick solution is Aleene's Tacky Glue. Water washup, and it won't mar the finish. Elmers glue does the same, it has a weaker bond, though. Super glues work, but the fumes will create a white film on the glass that ruins it, unless you dip the parts in Future floor wax. Plastic cements also work, but you're at a real risk of marring the part with excess glue. I do a variety, but option one is my go to.

 

on  Aleene‘s. It dries to a clear invisible film even if a little creeps over the frame. If I want a super strong join then I use my Tiuch N Flow applicator with Plast I Weld.

I use wood glue. I found my Krysal clear went hard as i use so little of it, but as i use a lot of wood glue anyway, and it seemed the same as the Klear. I do find it holds better.

I use Testors clear parts cement.  It's tacky which is good but slow drying and drys clear.

I use , tamiya extra thin and let the capillary action do it's thing , never had any fogging .

Quick solution is Aleene's Tacky Glue. Water washup, and it won't mar the finish. Elmers glue does the same, it has a weaker bond, though. Super glues work, but the fumes will create a white film on the glass that ruins it, unless you dip the parts in Future floor wax. Plastic cements also work, but you're at a real risk of marring the part with excess glue. I do a variety, but option one is my go to.