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Painting a 1969 Camaro

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  • Member since
    January 2019
  • From: Indiana
Painting a 1969 Camaro
Posted by VMF214 on Thursday, February 7, 2019 5:59 PM

I'm looking for some advice. I'm painting a Revell 69 Camaro and I'm having a little difficulty (I'm getting back in the game after 15 years). I sanded, primed and sanded again. I'm using Testors spray enamel 1209 Artic Blue Metallic, which looks great. I want to put racing stripes down the hood and trunk so I airbrushed Model Master Acrylic Gloss White and used Tamyia tape to trim out the stripes. When I took the tape off, some of the paint (the white stripe) came with it. It also bled underneath and it almost looks like I used white vinyl tape instead of paint. Theres a discernible "edge" to the white stripe, so I'm afraid to give it a light sanding. Am I doing something wrong? I thought I sealed the tape as best as I could. I let it dry for a few days before taking the tape off. 

  • Member since
    March 2005
Posted by philo426 on Friday, February 8, 2019 5:14 PM

Best to use blue 3M masking tape and lightly burnish it along the edges.

  • Member since
    March 2005
Posted by philo426 on Friday, February 8, 2019 5:19 PM

  • Member since
    March 2005
Posted by philo426 on Friday, February 8, 2019 5:20 PM

69 Chevelle but you get the idea.

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Friday, February 8, 2019 6:54 PM

How long did you let the Artic Blue Metallic cure before you masked the stripes?

Also, what primer did you use?

 

  • Member since
    March 2005
Posted by philo426 on Friday, February 8, 2019 7:03 PM

I used Model Master neutral gray as a primer followed by 2 coats of gloss white.Let the white cure for 3 days and taped up the stripes.Airbrushed 3 light coats of Model Master Arctic Blue metallic.peeled off the tape carefully and slowly.Minor touch up was necessary.

  • Member since
    March 2005
Posted by philo426 on Friday, February 8, 2019 7:24 PM

works great for locos too.  

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Friday, February 8, 2019 9:21 PM

To break it down:

When the white came up, did the blue stay on or did it come too? Look on the bottom of the paint to see if it's primer, blue or just white?

If it's white, it probably didn't cure enough. It might take a week. If it's blue, highly unlikely, then it'll show up as aproblem elsewhere. If it's gray, then the primer didn't bond and either it's a repaint, or you'll need to stop masking. Another thing to try is to run a razor blade along the edge of the tape before peeling it off.

Bleed, well besides burnishing hard; try spraying clear or more blue on the tape edge befor you go with the white, to seal it.

I probably would go white first, then blue just to keep the white bright.

I hope that's helpful. The model sounds sweet.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    March 2005
Posted by philo426 on Friday, February 8, 2019 9:28 PM

yep what I said....!

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Friday, February 8, 2019 9:41 PM

That's true Philo. Even using white primer, then masked color, then gloss.

What's that, a GP-7? And the road, Grampa, son and others?

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    March 2005
Posted by philo426 on Friday, February 8, 2019 10:34 PM

Lionel GP7 my fictional Gulf,Southern and Ohio!

  • Member since
    January 2019
  • From: Indiana
Posted by VMF214 on Saturday, February 9, 2019 3:31 PM

The blue cured for a week at least, if not longer. I’m almost ashamed to admit that I used some Krylon primer I had because I was to cheap to get some for plastic models.

  • Member since
    January 2019
  • From: Indiana
Posted by VMF214 on Saturday, February 9, 2019 3:32 PM

Wow! Looks fantastic!

  • Member since
    January 2019
  • From: Indiana
Posted by VMF214 on Saturday, February 9, 2019 3:36 PM

The blue stayed on, it was just the white that came up. So you guys think that if I do the white first, use 3M blue tape and then do the blue, that would be best. Heck, I’ll let the white cure for two weeks to play it safe. Thanks guys for the help, I appreciate it!

  • Member since
    January 2019
  • From: Indiana
Posted by VMF214 on Monday, February 11, 2019 6:28 AM

I did reply to you guys but it hasn't posted. I did it over the weekend on my phone, so maybe that's the problem. How long does it normaly take to post? Anyway, I'm ashamed to say that I had some Krylon primer sitting around and thought I would save money and used it for the primer (it is "primer"). I let the blue cure for over a week if not longer. The white was the only paint that came up when I took the tape off. I'll put the white down first and let it cure for a week or more and go with the blue and let you know how it looks. I do have another question...what do you recommend for paints that don't cover well? I bought "turn signal amber" and it absolutley sucks trying to get it so doesn't look like I smeared honey mustard sauce on a piece of plastic. Thanks for your help, I really do apperciate it!!!

  • Member since
    March 2005
Posted by philo426 on Monday, February 11, 2019 12:26 PM

Try putting the tape on your arm and peeling it off before applying it to the model.Takes off a little tack but will still adhere once burnished.

  • Member since
    March 2005
Posted by philo426 on Monday, February 11, 2019 12:49 PM

Good for flame jobs too!  

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Monday, February 11, 2019 1:07 PM

VMF214

I do have another question...what do you recommend for paints that don't cover well? I bought "turn signal amber" and it absolutley sucks trying to get it so doesn't look like I smeared honey mustard sauce on a piece of plastic. Thanks for your help, I really do apperciate it!!!

 

That's a common complaint. I don't build too many cars, but when I use transparent paints for things like wing tip lights, I've resigned to painting the part silver, then put the color over that. Best I can do.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    March 2005
Posted by philo426 on Monday, February 11, 2019 1:28 PM

Yes best methodology,for transparent colors.

  • Member since
    January 2019
  • From: Indiana
Posted by VMF214 on Monday, February 11, 2019 6:30 PM

Alright, thanks for the tip. I never would have thought of that.

  • Member since
    March 2005
Posted by philo426 on Saturday, February 16, 2019 10:28 AM

here is one that I did.  

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Saturday, February 16, 2019 11:30 AM

As far as I know, Model Master acrylic Gray Primer isn't a primer. It is an acrylic color called "Gray Primer".

This comes up every now and then, and I got stung on my first model back thinking the stuff was primer. My first masking job was same as yours, a disaster.

Sorry this reply is so late.

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Saturday, February 16, 2019 11:45 AM

Greg

As far as I know, Model Master acrylic Gray Primer isn't a primer. It is an acrylic color called "Gray Primer".

This comes up every now and then, and I got stung on my first model back thinking the stuff was primer. My first masking job was same as yours, a disaster.

Sorry this reply is so late.

 

Oh boy just saw this thread. I will NEVER use MM Acrylic Primer since the last time I used it. Was sprayed under my MM enamel paints and lifted down to bare plastic after removing the masking tape. That has NEVER hapenned when using solvent type primers. Have heard the same bad thing about Vallejo. 

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Saturday, February 16, 2019 12:23 PM

plasticjunkie
That has NEVER hapenned when using solvent type primers.

As PJ said, solvent primers are probably best.

That said, many of us have been having great luck with Stynylrez, which I believe is polyureathane based? Whatever it is, it has no odor and really adheres to the plastic. I've been using it instead of Tamiya, Mr Surfacer, or Alclad (all solvent based) and haven't had a regret. Yet.

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Saturday, February 16, 2019 1:20 PM

Forgot about that one Greg. Have heard great things about it.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

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