How to airbrush gloss varnish

Nuckss

 

 

Tojo72

Oh well,worked great for me

 

 

 

Which is why it is vexing to me to get the results I did. I bought the stuff because it was highly recommended. I must be doing something wrong but I don't know what it is.

One thing that is peculiar with the bottle I have: The warning on the bottle about the State of California declares some ingredients toxic etc. spells California incorrectly; Califrnia. What is up with that?

 

Well after several more months of experience with the Aqua Gloss and Vallejo acrylic gloss I am seeing improved results. I'm laying it on much heavier than before. going through a lot of gloss on each model. I've used 2/3 of a 60ml bottle of vallejo on one 1/35 tank, an at-st, and a 1/72 blackhawk. That isn't that much plastic. It really does take 3-4 coats to get everything smooth as someone earlier in the thread mentioned.

I think getting closer to the model than you probably would spraying vallejo model color for instance is another good technique. I'm still not sure what is best air pressure for Aqua Gloss and Vallejo Acrylic Gloss as no one has mentioned what they spray at. I've tried to keep it below 20psi. Not sure about thinning either. I haven't tried that. The stuff seems to spray fine out of the airbrush. It just doesn't give a perfect coat until you've got 4 coats.

Anyway, I'm interested to hear any new advice about these products.

Tojo72

Oh well,worked great for me

Which is why it is vexing to me to get the results I did. I bought the stuff because it was highly recommended. I must be doing something wrong but I don't know what it is.

One thing that is peculiar with the bottle I have: The warning on the bottle about the State of California declares some ingredients toxic etc. spells California incorrectly; Califrnia. What is up with that?

Tojo72

 

 

plasticjunkie

Hey thanks Baxter! I was really surprised that the decals did not fracture since the date on the sheet is 1985 but they held up fine.

 

 

 

 

Would that be the Hasegawa 1/48 F-15C Sat Destroyer,yours looks great.I built that kit in 99 still have it  on my shelf.

 

Yep same  one. Builds up very good but the forward to rear fuselage fit is tricky. Did you paint the canopy frames red/brown?

plasticjunkie

Hey thanks Baxter! I was really surprised that the decals did not fracture since the date on the sheet is 1985 but they held up fine.

 

Would that be the Hasegawa 1/48 F-15C Sat Destroyer,yours looks great.I built that kit in 99 still have it  on my shelf.

Hey thanks Baxter! I was really surprised that the decals did not fracture since the date on the sheet is 1985 but they held up fine.

PJ--that is a good theory and you are probably right! That would make sence. Who knows what time frame he worked with in order to do his demo.

That tail section looks perfect. There is no hint of grain and the decals are stuck down well. Nice job...  

Bakster

 

 

steve5

it was also the way it went through the sealer coat that worried me .

 

 

Steve--I agree. That made me step back as well. An application of Dullcote made the clear crackle. Weird. Maybe it's the underling paint causing the issue. Hard to know without testing it.

 

 

Sounds like not allowing it to cure/air out before applying a ton of flat lacquer over it.

I have used Solvaset, Sol and Set, Aqua Gloss, Future, Vallejo acrylics, MM enamels, MM flat acrylic and Testors lacquers in mixed order and have NEVER had any issues at all as long as the paint/clear coats have been given adequate time to cure/air out and lacquers are sprayed in light coats to avoid any possible issues.

Here is a recently sprayed tail using Aqua Gloss and decals applied about 24 hours later using Solvaset to tame those Hasegawa decals. I set the Eagle aside for 4 days  and sprayed several light coats of Testors Dullcote thinned a bit with LT. 

I think curing time is very important to avoid any unwanted reaction. However if using Future the clear coat needs at least 3 days to cure to avoid reaction with the Solvaset.

Ryravux

Unfortunately the compressor is very basic and small and doesn't give me the option to change air pressure. I know very little about airbrushes and compressors, but I think I can buy something that I can attach to let me change PSI.

Yeah--you will want the ability to change air pressure. It is very important. My first compressor was the same way, no control valve. And yes--you can attach a valve. Below is an example of a really basic adjustment valve. I used a similar one. The downside is there is no gauge and a person has to guess what the air pressure is. You can get one with a gauge too. You just need to surf around and see what you can find. Make sure the fittings match before you buy.

https://www.micromark.com/Pressure-Reducing-Valve-for-Airbrushes?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-4fg2_nS4QIVBJJbCh2bsg6TEAQYCyABEgLg1fD_BwE

steve5

it was also the way it went through the sealer coat that worried me .

thanks baxter , you say it so much better than me . it was also the way it went through the sealer coat that worried me .

should have warned you tojo , about the way he waffled on mate sorry .

I have a pretty low cost starter airbrush and compressor kit I got on Amazon for around $70 Canadian. It was a nice buy. The airbrush and compressor work great, no problems at all. It sprays perfect, as far as I know.

Unfortunately the compressor is very basic and small and doesn't give me the option to change air pressure. I know very little about airbrushes and compressors, but I think I can buy something that I can attach to let me change PSI.

It's a gravity fed airbrush with a 0.3mm nozzle. The compressor is set at 25-30 PSI which is perfectly fine for what I do!

Tojo72

I'm sure I used Solvaset on Aqua Gloss,if not definitly Micro Sol with no problems.

I guess everyone has their own unique expierience with products.

 

I'm sure I used Solvaset on Aqua Gloss,if not definitly Micro Sol with no problems.

I guess everyone has their own unique expierience with products.

PJ-- The video Steve linked to and the issues that the author speaks of are about interactions with various setting solutions, and/or a final topcoat. The Alclad Aqua gloss performed pretty poorly next to Future, or even with no clear at all. All of them had issues but the Aqua Gloss had some serious defects when it was tested with the stronger setting solutions. I think that this is what Steve was reacting to.

Is the authors findings real world? Not sure. Obviously, you like it--and others here do too and apparently without problems. He alludes to the poor perfomance possibly linked to the underlying paint layer of AK Interactive Real Color. Probably, more testing should be done on his part, but his results do give me pause about the product.

Bakster

 

 

Tojo72

 

 

steve5

I was thinking of getting some alclad gloss , then I saw this put me right off .

www.youtube.com/watch?v=hwtc53ct9XE

 

 

 

 

I just didnt have an hour or the patience to listen to him,what is the point he is getting at ? Can you tell us briefly ?

 

 

 

 

 

 

I am interested to hear Steve's take on this as well. Not to shunt Steve from responding, I just watched the video. You might want to check the 29:00, 50:00, and 59:00 minute mark. He boils down some of his findings at those time marks. 

 

 

Like any paint that is sprayed, proper distance from the surface is VERY important. Too far will give you a grainy finish, too close produces runs if not careful. Gloss finishes are a whole different thing than spraying flats. With gloss finishes a wet coat will deliver the best finish.

I use Aqua Gloss and get a smooth even finish that are built up in several coats, usually 3-4  will do.

Tojo72

 

 

steve5

I was thinking of getting some alclad gloss , then I saw this put me right off .

www.youtube.com/watch?v=hwtc53ct9XE

 

 

 

 

I just didnt have an hour or the patience to listen to him,what is the point he is getting at ? Can you tell us briefly ?

 

I am interested to hear Steve's take on this as well. Not to shunt Steve from responding, I just watched the video. You might want to check the 29:00, 50:00, and 59:00 minute mark. He boils down some of his findings at those time marks. 

steve5

I was thinking of getting some alclad gloss , then I saw this put me right off .

www.youtube.com/watch?v=hwtc53ct9XE

 

I just didnt have an hour or the patience to listen to him,what is the point he is getting at ? Can you tell us briefly ?

I was thinking of getting some alclad gloss , then I saw this put me right off .

www.youtube.com/watch?v=hwtc53ct9XE

Don't mean to throw in a curve ball here, but couldn't you try artist varnish? 

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/tools_techniques_and_reference_materials/f/18/t/159998.aspx

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/tools_techniques_and_reference_materials/f/18/t/141403.aspx

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/46166-winsor-newton-galeria-matt-varnish/

http://www.winsornewton.com/uk/shop/oils-solvents-mediums-and-varnishes/oil-colour/varnishes/all-purpose-high-gloss-varnish-5-07-us-fl-oz-150ml-can-3034988

Their website says it's compatable with modelling materials.

I haven't tried it but it'll be cheaper then model brand stuff. People have said good things about it so there must be something.....................

Also what pressure did you spray it at?

You will get a lot of different opinions of what to use and in the end you will need to find out what works for you.

My two cents: I have not tried the Alclad line yet, but I will. I have heard good things about them. I HAVE used Alclads’ line of paints though, and in my experience, they require some thinning. If I don’t thin them I end up with grain to the finish. I suspect the clear may need it too. But, not having tried them, I can’t say. For Alclad paints I use Tamiya lacquer thinner and it works great. Probably any decent quaility lacquer thinner will work.

Testers gloss and flat works well. You can buy them in jars for airbrushing, and they DO require thinning.  Again, I use Tamiya lacquer thinner for that. You can also buy both of their offering in rattle cans.

I have also tried Humbrols’ Clear Gloss. This stuff works really well straight from the bottle. It is super thin, almost like water. No thinning is required. It is an Acrylic based product. Also, it brushes on and self levels really well.

The one takeaway I‘d like to give you is this. ALWAYS, test your airbrush mixture on scrap plastic first, and not on the model. By doing this you can catch problems before ruining all your hard work. I buy a box of white plastic spoons for this. A box is a couple of bucks at most, and it lasts me months. I prefer white because it is easier to see how the paint is going on verses a darker colored plastic.

Lastly... don’t be afraid to thin. It is a must in most cases. I find that I can generally get by with 1 part thinner to 1 part paint. It’s a good starting point and it is usually just right for my airbrush.

Nuckss

 

 

Tojo72

Use their thinner and flow improver,or switch to the best,Alclad Aqua Gloss.

 

 

 

 

i have both alclads  acrylic gloss and Vallejo acrylic gloss. I get major orange peel with alclad when airbrushing according to the instructions. The Vallejo worked better. 

I did not thin either of them. 

 

Oh well,worked great for me

Tojo72

Use their thinner and flow improver,or switch to the best,Alclad Aqua Gloss.

 

i have both alclads  acrylic gloss and Vallejo acrylic gloss. I get major orange peel with alclad when airbrushing according to the instructions. The Vallejo worked better. 

I did not thin either of them. 

I use Testors "Dullcote" in the rattle can for flat finishes and Future thinned a little with Distilled water for gloss finishes. Used Vallejo Satin and Matt with a little of their flow improver with no problems (5/1 Vallejo/Flow Improver).

You'll find lots use their favorites. Just try and find what works for you. 

Jim  

You can also try pledge acrylic floor polish with future. Water based, cheap, levels well, and smells lemonly. 

Ryravux

 

 

Tojo72

Use their thinner and flow improver,or switch to the best,Alclad Aqua Gloss.

 

 

 

 

Does Alclad Clear Gloss Kote (ALD310) come pre thinned or do I have to thin it down?

Keep in mind I have very little knowledge on thinning things.

 

That's diffrent stuff,that is lacquer based,but no thinning needed.

Their Aqua Gloss is acrylic,that also sprays staight from the bottle,and it really does.

I'm using an Iwata Eclipse with a .3 nozzle and q5-20 psi,no thinning needed.

This is a "generally speaking" response. Alclad products are intended to be airbrushed right out of the bottle. For clears, a medium to large tip works best unless you're spraying small parts. You will want to experiment with pressure settings to find what works well for your airbrush at the temperature and humidity at your bench or booth.

Alclad's website is a good source for more information.

Tojo72

Use their thinner and flow improver,or switch to the best,Alclad Aqua Gloss.

 

Does Alclad Clear Gloss Kote (ALD310) come pre thinned or do I have to thin it down?

Keep in mind I have very little knowledge on thinning things.

Use their thinner and flow improver,or switch to the best,Alclad Aqua Gloss.

As far as I know, Vallejo 'varnishes' are not meant for airbrushing, period.

polyurethane + water doesn't equal a good feeling to me. (as PJ mentioned).

I don't mean to throw stones at Vallejo, but in this case I'd second Sheep and suggest some other clear product for airbrushing.

I've had success with all the Alclad Clears (both solvent and water-based). I strongly dislike using Future floor polish and get tired of reading about it every 3 days. I have found airbrushing it to be a nightmare. I'd even recommend spraying that stuff before Vallejo clear varnishes. (PS, the clear varnishes brush on great and the brush mark disappear, again, as Sheep alluded to)

Hope you get this sorted out. Clear coat trouble can be very frustrating since it tends to come towards the end of a 'build'.