I need help! I dont know what i did wrong

You should try using a acrylic clear coat because I think the turpentine might be eating away at the lacquer.  I've actually ran test were I very slightly thinned down the testors laquer clear coat with oil based thinners, like turpentine.  Now it was very slightly, but if it's already a thin layer of clear coat than the thinner is going to thin it quit a lot. But, all I'm trying to say is I never har a problem with acrylic clear coats and oil washes.  Hope that this helps. -Noah

P.S. try just using just regular oil thinner, it's way more safe and does about the same. :)

Haven't seen it mentioned but you can do a pastel sludge wash or, if you want to do just panel line pin washes use thinned down water color paint with a drop of dish soap without hurting your clear coat. I know these are not the go to tools these days but I prefer them because they work well with water clean up and no harmful chemicals, nasty odors, or possible damage to the paint job. You do still want to do those on a good gloss coat not directly on the paint. I've read these washes work well or even better on a flat or matte clear coat  but have yet to try it. Good luck with whatever you try that works for you. 

You cannot use a solvent type wash over a solvent finish. You need a barrier coat as in a clear acrylic so the solvent wash will not affect it. Caution here cuz the acrylic needs some curing time. I’m exrTra  cautious and wait several days to let things cure. No need to rush and ruin your work. Just my .02. 

I recommend Flory Washes. They are water/clay based and safe over anything.

I'd buy some cheap craft store acrylics for washes, if I were you.  By cheap, I mean their price, not their quality.  I use them for washes, but also now for other painting jobs.  You can thin them with water.  And when they're on sale, you can get them for less than a dollar a bottle, for a bottle that will last a very long time.

lowfly

Can i assume i can make a wash with Tamiya Black XF-1 and thin it WAY down with the X-20A then clean it up with paper towels or Q tips in the X-20A? Will this attack the Acrylic Gloss coat?

Maybe. Probably. Depends on cure time on the acrylic clear.

Hint: think dissimilar layers. If your clear gloss over decals is acrylic, use oil wash (or solvent-based wash) of your choice. If your clear gloss over decals is solvent-based (like Alclad II clear coats (NOT Aqua Clear) or Testors spray clear, etc, use water-based wash (like Flory wash, Vallejo wash, or home-made acrylic wash).

That said, if you wait long enough for cure time, you can almost put anything over anything, but true cure time can be weeks or more.

You have to be careful with alcohol too. It can get aggressive too. And I believe the X-20A has some alcohol content in it. If you are going to make a wash with the XF-1 and X-20A, I would use the Testors gloss lacquer for a clear protection coat and not an acrylic. 

My best suggestion is if you have a old spare model that you can use for testing. Do a test on the spare model before attempting on your B-25. 

Also, give the clear coat time to cure. Say 24 hours before attempting to weather.

Hope this helps.

wow...thanks for the great advice. I will switch to an acrylic based wash and acrylic thinners.  I normally use Tamiyas X-20A for the bulk of my thinning for AB. 

Can i assume i can make a wash with Tamiya Black XF-1 and thin it WAY down with the X-20A then clean it up with paper towels or Q tips in the X-20A?

Will this attack the Acrylic Gloss coat?

It the thinner that you used. It was too hot.

Ideally, if you used acrylics to seal the paint, use an oil based wash and thinner for weathering. This can even get a bit touchy at times too. If you use too hot of a thinner, it can eat through some acrylics. Lacquer thinners are the hottest, meaning they are the most chemically aggressive to finishes.

If you use a enamel/lacquer to seal the base coat, use an acrylic wash and thinner for weathering.

Or try using acrylic clear to seal the decals. Besides Future, which gets a lot of smack, there are other good ones like Tamiya.

I use Turpenoid for my washes, which is mineral spirits, not pine tree sap and is pretty odorless.

Real turpentine is pretty agressive. I use it to clean up dry epoxy.

Most likely your washes are oil based and you using thinner that will attack it and cause it to melt your paint job.

I usually use Testors Black Detail wash. Clean up using water, not thinner. Maybe try using acrylic based wash. They can be cleaned up with water. Maybe someone will chime in for better advice.