Need some advice about gluing

wear latex gloves or fingerletts(sp?) which are latex fingers without the rest of the glove.have used both types when working on circuit boards for Celestica in the early 2000's.

I am curious what type of glue you are using? 

I sometimes use latex gloves (as long as you're not allergic to them). They're cheap enough by the box in any drug store. There's also "latex free".

I use them when using my airbrush too. Makes hand cleanup a lot easier.

Jim  

lowfly

How can i prevent these from happening?

Ahoy Lowfly,

As a non-newbie (50 years experience)  I would advise you to 1. be patient.  2. check the fit before going for the glue. 3. take your time (be patient again) 4. use your glue sparingly (just enough to get the job done). 5. use a fast acting liquid cement.  My favorite is Tamiya "Extra Thin" with the green top.

Just yesterday I got several glue fingerprints on my P-38 and yes, I had to hit them with sandpaper to make the prints go away.  I often find that swearing helps in the short term.

Good Luck and I hope your spitfire turns out OK.  I built an Italeri Spitfire IX a couple of months ago and had some unexpected issues with their decals not wanting to come off the paper smoothly.

Strongeagle

As a non-newbie (50 years experience)  I would advise you to 1. be patient.  2. check the fit before going for the glue. 3. take your time (be patient again) 4. use your glue sparingly (just enough to get the job done). 5. use a fast acting liquid cement.  My favorite is Tamiya "Extra Thin" with the green top.

That is where I was going with what type of glue he is using. I follow the above as well and I seldom have the issue noted. I would add that for larger pieces I apply glue in sections, not all at once. When using Tamiya and the applicator that comes with it, you can apply glue sparingly, and exactly where you want it.

If you are not familiar with this type of cement, it is important to note that you can apply the glue along the join from the outside of the piece. Capilary action draws the cement along the join, and any cement that gets on the outside of the piece dries fast enough to where very little damage is done.

Since my return to the hobby I find Tamiya Liquid Cement is my favorite change from the old days of using tube glue. Next to that is the advent of sanding sticks, both are a must have in my work flow.

Good luck!

Yeah, that's an interesting question!

But generally - use less glue and apply it only to the right spots, that should do the trick. Of course it's easier said than done. I, for myself, use lacquer thinner for glue and I'm applying it from a fingernail-lacquer bottle, using the cap-mounted brush that was originally with the bottle, just cut down a little bit. Or sometimes I replace the brusch that came with the bottle with a micro-brush given to me by my dentist, the biggest size works best here.

Hope it helps - good luck with your builds and have a nice day

Paweł

Another+ for tamiya thin.  Also look at clamping/taping/ rubber banding parts until glue dries. If you glue between the bands/tape, then glue those spots after tape/bands come off, you can avoid most prints.

I use the Tamiya Extra Thin quick set (Green Lid)  I usually do glue sections at a time to avoid fitment issues but this kit is HORRIBLE when it comes to fitment. Will NOT ever build another Itailari kit again.  This issue is that instead of the tape, rubber bands or clamps that i normally use....I have to hold the pieces with my hands to get the fit proper and i have large, meathooks for hands.  

I suppose i will have to learn patience and take my time.  Thanks for all the advice.  I have gotten good at removing the offending fingerprints and i will try the gloves.  Being an EMT may yet pay off for me......lol