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How to Weather Aluminum Question

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  • Member since
    March 2017
How to Weather Aluminum Question
Posted by theflyingdutchman on Monday, July 22, 2019 3:15 AM

Hi all, 

Having painted the back part of my c-17 engines aluminum, I now want to get the look that it is used, dirty and smoky (like in real life).

What would I use to get this effect and how would I do it?

Tags: C-17A , Revell , weather
  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Monday, July 22, 2019 6:42 AM
I don't know how dirty or smokey they get,but I would recommend looking at Smoke Pigments or a black wash.

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Monday, July 22, 2019 7:34 AM

I'd be hesitant to make the engine exhaust cones look sooty/smoky. Sure, they would display some heating effects, but that comes from heating the inside of the cone.

The engines are high-bypass turbofans and it's pretty much cool, unburnt air (hence the term "bypass") that passes over the outer surface of the exhaust cones.

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Monday, July 22, 2019 9:48 AM

What  did you use for the Aluminum?  It makes a difference what the paint or finish is.

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Monday, July 22, 2019 10:29 AM

Phil_H

I'd be hesitant to make the engine exhaust cones look sooty/smoky. Sure, they would display some heating effects, but that comes from heating the inside of the cone.

The engines are high-bypass turbofans and it's pretty much cool, unburnt air (hence the term "bypass") that passes over the outer surface of the exhaust cones.

 

I don’t believe that the area you mention is made from aluminum. More than likely it is a different alloy, and more high heat resistant.

 

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Northeast WA State
Posted by armornut on Monday, July 22, 2019 12:29 PM

Stik and Phil are correct, the hot section of most turbine engines are titanium. They do change to a smokey, dark umber look after heating and in some areas they actually turn a rainbow of blues and copper. Do be light on the weathering, by that I mean work up to the level you are wanting, slowly. Modern aircraft are espeacially military are well maintained and inspected regularly. Have fun.

we're modelers it's what we do

  • Member since
    March 2017
Posted by theflyingdutchman on Tuesday, July 23, 2019 6:30 AM

Don Stauffer

What  did you use for the Aluminum?  It makes a difference what the paint or finish is.

 

 

Don- I couldn't find any of the chrome or aluminum testors paint at my local hobby shop so I had to resort to using Revell's enamel aluminum 99. 

 

  • Member since
    June 2014
  • From: New Braunfels , Texas
Posted by Tanker - Builder on Tuesday, July 23, 2019 7:52 AM

Hi, Dutch;

 Listen ,what I use is a wet mix of aluminum and anthracite .Then, dry-brush a very little of Hull red mixed with Brown .Very light .Almost non - existant on a dry brush .

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Tuesday, July 23, 2019 8:21 AM

theflyingdutchman

 

 
Don Stauffer

What  did you use for the Aluminum?  It makes a difference what the paint or finish is.

 

 

 

 

Don- I couldn't find any of the chrome or aluminum testors paint at my local hobby shop so I had to resort to using Revell's enamel aluminum 99. 

 

 

 

Okay, over enamel I would use Testors Steel.  The steel color is darker than the aluminum color, so looks a bit dirty and weathered.  While you could use a wash, I personally prefer to use the drybrush technique.  However, if you have not done drybrushing before, I would practice on a piece of scrap, painted first with the aluminum.

The secret to drybrushing is to use an extremely small amount on the brush. You will be putting on such a thin coat of steel that it may be almost invisible at first.  You then can build up the tint until you reach the desired look.  And remember, in weathering, less is better than more :-)

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    June 2017
Posted by UnwaryPaladin on Tuesday, July 23, 2019 8:21 AM

For subtle changes you could try shading with a soft lead pencil (4B), then blending it with a paper stick. Go easy and build up, when you can just see a different tone, stop.

  • Member since
    March 2017
Posted by theflyingdutchman on Tuesday, July 23, 2019 10:31 AM

armornut

Stik and Phil are correct, the hot section of most turbine engines are titanium. They do change to a smokey, dark umber look after heating and in some areas they actually turn a rainbow of blues and copper. Do be light on the weathering, by that I mean work up to the level you are wanting, slowly. Modern aircraft are espeacially military are well maintained and inspected regularly. Have fun.

 

What kind of wash is BEST for getting that kind of weathering effect. Do you all have any suggestions on how to get the kind of effect circled in the picture below?

 

 

  " alt="" width="800" height="800" />

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Tuesday, July 23, 2019 10:52 AM

theflyingdutchman

 

 
armornut

Stik and Phil are correct, the hot section of most turbine engines are titanium. They do change to a smokey, dark umber look after heating and in some areas they actually turn a rainbow of blues and copper. Do be light on the weathering, by that I mean work up to the level you are wanting, slowly. Modern aircraft are espeacially military are well maintained and inspected regularly. Have fun.

 

 

 

What kind of wash is BEST for getting that kind of weathering effect. Do you all have any suggestions on how to get the kind of effect circled in the picture below?

 

 

 

  " alt="" width="800" height="800" />

 

I would suggest that you try this stuff rather than a wash

 

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Northeast WA State
Posted by armornut on Tuesday, July 23, 2019 1:52 PM

Again I agree with Stik, the effect your looking to achive would be better done by drybrushing, or pigments. Studying the above pix it is my opinion the areas you have circled are actually shadows, quite possibly even reflections of the tarmac.

we're modelers it's what we do

  • Member since
    March 2017
Posted by theflyingdutchman on Tuesday, July 23, 2019 2:46 PM
Thanks for the info gentlemen. The C-17 is my first model so I'm learning a lot as I go!
  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Northeast WA State
Posted by armornut on Tuesday, July 23, 2019 3:11 PM

Your welcome, have fun...experiment....have more fun....and keep learning.

we're modelers it's what we do

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