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Everyone here is correct. My method to stop this issue is to wipe everything down with achohol before I prime everything. Then paint. Give it at least 24 hrs before applying masking tape to fresh paint. Remove the tape as soon as it's safe to do so. I have had no lifting issues doing it this way.
BK
On the bench:
A lot !! And I mean A LOT!!
2024 Kits on deck / in process / completed
14 / 5 / 2
cid80q appreciate the insights. I wash my parts with dish soap before painting but have never used a primer, I need to try that.
appreciate the insights. I wash my parts with dish soap before painting but have never used a primer, I need to try that.
Two questions then.
1, what type and brand of spray paints are you using?
2, what kit are you having this problem with, or has it been more than one?
Generally, enamel paints have superb adhesion properties and will hold fast even without primer.
Some kits have plastics that are not quite the standard polystyrene that we are used to and dont work well with styrene paints and glues.
F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!
U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!
N is for NO SURVIVORS...
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LSM
Always clean the kit first with a degreaser as G says above this will get rid of any mold release agent.
finger grease can also cause a problem so clean any parts assembled before priming etc, or wear surgeons gloves.
Never be in a rush over the paint or primer. Always make sure that the paint/primer is fully dry and cured before masking etc. I usually leave 24 hours to cure, sometimes longer.
assembling the model is the quick part, it is the painting that makes it come alive and the time consuming bit.
My recent Lancaster build took 3 months and most of that was painting. Plenty of masks were used, some from vendors and some home made. The base colours also took time to apply with the 1/32 Lanc being a big beast and primer and upper and lower base colours took about a week and a half to apply and cure before the green upper disruptive pattern was masked and painted and the masks removed almost as soon as the painting was done and then left to cure for a couple of days.
it is just down to preparation. After washing the kit sprues with whatever, just rinse really well and let air dry for a couple of days. This is not a quick hobby!
What G said. Get some rubbing alcohol and wipe down the model before you paint (it removes the oils from your fingers that got on the model while handling it during construction and helps get rid of any dust that may be on the model). Use a primer, IMHO Tamiya's Fine Gray is the best out there. Then paint. Some will wash the plastic with a dish soap to remove any mold release, you have to be careful because some soaps will actually hinder the paint's adhesion. If you feel you have to wash the plastic I recomend Dawn, it's what I use when cleaning resin parts. Make sure you rinse the parts thoroughly.
Buddy- Those who say there are no stupid questions have never worked in customer service.
Paint-to-plastic is the problem.
Clean the plastic.
Prime.
Paint.
Modeling is an excuse to buy books.
You could try de-tacking the tape before you apply to your paint. Sticking your tape to your pant leg or even your arm will lessen it's tack, then apply to the model. In my experience with Tamiya tape it will not effect the clean edge and won't pull the paint off as long as it has dried properly.
so my last 2 kits I suddenly seem to be having a problem with my Tamiya masking tape pulling the paint off the surface of parts. Any ideas on what is causing this, I'm a recreational modeler who only uses spray paint so am I possibly putting it on to heavy to adhere or could the surface of the plastic be the problem? Any insight appreciated.
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