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I'm painting a Star Wars X-Wing canopy and I'm masking the "glass". I'm using Vallejo Model Air acrylic paint.
When I remove the masking tape, the paint around its edge gets lifted. Is there a way to avoid this? It doesn't happen when I'm doing masking on other model surfaces so is there something different about the clear plastic of the canopy?
Thanks!
Sometimes it is wise to put a new #11 blade in your Exacto knife and mighty score around the masking tape.Use tweezers to carefully remove each piece lifting parrarel to the canopy surface with a slow smooth lifting action.
Though I'm not a fan of using floor polish on my models, before painting clear aircraft canopies I usually dip them in Future floor polish and let it dry for several days before masking and painting.
Model Air doesn't adhere to polystyrene all that well, at least IMHO. The Future does though, and it seems to provide a friendlier substrate for the Model Air. This has minimized the problem you describe.
A couple-three light coats much better re the Model Air. One thick coat, especially a too-thick coat (which unfortunately I am prone to doing) makes the problem you describe worse.
I agree 100% with Phil's sound advice above.
Good luck.
Another benefit of painting over Future is that if it goes badly, it's a simple matter of dipping the whole thing in Windex, wiping it all off and starting over.
Modeling is an excuse to buy books.
GMorrison Another benefit of painting over Future is that if it goes badly, it's a simple matter of dipping the whole thing in Windex, wiping it all off and starting over.
Good point!
All good points above. Another method is to shoot some Tamiya primer or any solvent type primer or paint to give the Vallejo some bite into the surface.
Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!
plasticjunkie All good points above. Another method is to shoot some Tamiya primer or any solvent type primer or paint to give the Vallejo some bite into the surface.
I've been using Badger's Stynylrez, (what a name,) acrylic primer since it came out a few years back, with Tamiya acrylic and some enamels. Never had any lifting so far, even with Model Air.
Greg's thoughts about multiple thin coats are good, I believe that adds to the adherence factor.
I know it's not considered necessary by several modelers, but I stick with a good soap and rinse cleaning when the sprues come out of the box. If there is mold release and maybe other contamination from handling while boxing, it can be spread over the model while being built. That can contribute nothing good, when it comes to painting for a final finish.
I also use alcohol as a prep for painting, applied sparingly with cotton swabs, just enough to get the surfaces dampened and clean. Keep changing the swab as I proceed, then a repeat for final cleaning. I feel confident that these steps do make for a positive adherence, they work for me.
Patrick
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