Aaaaack! Need decal help!

Looks good - glad you figured it out.  BTW nothing wrong with punching back - admins need to be sure comments are helpful.

Excellent!Glad you found a solution!

Thanks, Philo.  Actually, I found a solution.  Turns out the problem is the Tamiya decals and how they interact with the Revell gloss-coat/dull-coat.  As I said, the Revell worked fine with the Italeri decals, which were  over 30 years old!  But Tamiya decals don't like the Revell product.  So I had a can of cheap, no-name craft store clear gloss spray, sprayed that down as a base first.  After it dried I put the Tamiya decals down, set them with Micro-Set, let it dry thoroughly, then sprayed a second, top coat of the no-name clear gloss.  Let it dry thoroughly (overnight), THEN sprayed the Revell dull-coat as a final coat.  The no-name gloss protects the Tamiya decals from the Revell spray, while the Revell dull-coat spray has the desired effect without ruining the decals.  I'll still try and order some Testors DullCote and GlossCote in the bottle and use the airbrush to pply them, but this works for now!

 

Solv a set is the nuke option when all else fails as it is the strongest solution as far as I know...no need to start a fight.Remember we are all here because we love scale modeling and should be here to be as helpful to each other as possible.

Well, you should know disgusting, as it is obviously in your nature. In no universe have I encountered such a know-it-all blowhard as yourself. Unfortunately, I don't know that there's a "Block" feature on these forums to block the likes of you, or I would most certainly use it.

  Let's examine the facts here, shall we?  I posted a very simple post asking a couple of questions: does anyone know where I can get Testors Dull-Cote in Europe, or conversely, does anyone know of a similar product available in Europe that works just as well?  So, philo426 replies with a question as to whether or not I used MicroSol first.  Legitimate question, good response!  To which I answered him that I did.  Then aljafleche replies with another good, very helpful response that it didn't look as if the gloss-coat was setting down well and asking if I had tried using bottled Gloss-Cote/Dull-Cote through an airbrush, whichI had frankly never thought of. Great advice!

Then comes you, Morrison, or shall I call you "Mr. Know-It-All"?  Your oh-so-dripping with condescension reply of "In no universe would I call that a gloss coat" frankly deserved a two-word response; I think you can guess which two words those are, and it ain't Thank You.  Where do you even get off with that attitude?  You're the guy who when he walks into the model show, everyone groans, "Oh great, there goes the neighborhood, Mr. Know-It-All just arrived."  I can guarantee you're a Rivet Counter of the highest order, always too willing to lord your superior knowledge over other, mere mortal modelers.  Here's a piece of advice: if you don't want to be called out for being a d*****, don't act like a d*****.  You want to get respect in return, try treating others with respect.  Otherwise, with me, you get as good as you give.  AA out.

 

Your reply above is disgusting. 

 

Bill

 

 

Hey stik, not ragging on you, but if you read Morrison's comment before my "snarky response," you'd see he had it coming. Give me snark (or quite frankly, a real anal orifice response), and you're gonna get snark back. I asked two simple questions: A. does anyone know where I can get Testors Dull-Cote in Europe, or B. Does anyone know of a imilar product that reliably works with Tamiya decals. Firstly, his comment about "in no universe is that a gloss coat" was not only uncalled for, but then his second condescending remark about MicroSet/MicroSol not only further illustrated how much of an anal orifice he was, but is also completely opposite what I have heard from every other modeler I've talked to about decaling. Whether MicroSet, or Solvaset, or Tamiya MarkFit, etc., the consensus is that using a decal setting solution IS an ALWAYS step. Quite frankly, my "snarky" response was more polite than he deserved. What I REALLY should have said would have gotten me kicked off these boards, so I used a heaping amount of discretion. Model on!

Armor_Aficionado

Go back to whatever universe you’re from, then. Strange that this “non-gloss coat” works very well on 33-year-old decals, genius.

 

Aside from your snarky reply here, your photos do not appear to show your gripe. Yes, your M8 has decal silvering. But the Tamiya decal on the hull top looks ok to my eye in that photo. No slivering stands out. While the Italeri decal on the glacis plate shows some silvering or other issue on the marking film edge. 

Youre in Europe. What other product lines are available? Humbrol stuff works great and should not be too hard to obtain in Europe. How about Gunze products? Tamiya? Personally I have not used the Testors rattle can stuff for over 25 years or so now because there are far better products out there. Future is my go to gloss coat and Humbrol my best yet Flat and Satin top coat. Applied by airbrush for better control than rattle cans. I do like the Micro Set & Sol, but perhaps look for Walthers Solvaset which may cure your woes.

No go have some of that Bavarian Bier and come back a little more friendly.

Keep in mind there is a decaling forum.  I'd post the question there- some good people in that forum.  For some reason I cannot insert a link, but it is down in the Tools, techniques and reference materials section.

 

 

Why not decant the current gloss and flat you have and use it thru the AB, you will get better control and a smoother coat.

I believe the decals may be the culprit here, I have seen this before. Try using a new #11 blade and lightly slice the affected areas of the decals then apply Solvaset. The slicing of the film will allow the Solvaset to whick under the decal and fix the problem. That has worked for me in the past when silvering appears.

By the way, there are those few times when silvering will appear even if the finish the decal goes on is glossy smooth. I remember one particular time when only one decal got silvering out of the entire markings I applied.

ajlafleche

In the second picture especially, the gloss does not seem to be setting very well. There's a lot of "orange peel" in the  finish. Do you have an airbrush? Using that with either bottled Gloss/Dull coate might make a difference. Model Master acrylic gloss  through an airbrush is also very effective. 

 

 

 

Thanks, I'll try that.  Never tried the bottled GlossCote/DullCote before, the spray cans were just so convenient.  I'll give it a shot.

Go back to whatever universe you’re from, then. Strange that this “non-gloss coat” works very well on 33-year-old decals, genius.

In no universe would I ever call that a gloss coat, sorry. Also, you should not consider Set/ Sol as an "always". 

In the second picture especially, the gloss does not seem to be setting very well. There's a lot of "orange peel" in the  finish. Do you have an airbrush? Using that with either bottled Gloss/Dull coate might make a difference. Model Master acrylic gloss  through an airbrush is also very effective. 

 

Yes, I ALWAYS use Micro-Set/Micro-Sol.  Here's what I'm seeing:

 

Previous model with silvered decals:

 

Latest Tamiya kit (LRDG truck) decals :

 

 

33-year-old Italeri decals - No Problem!:

 

 

My current gloss and dull coat:

 

 

 

Did you use Microsol before applying the decals?