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GMorrison Very simple- so it comes out wrong. I make a habit of shaving off the pins, so often they are out of place.
Very simple- so it comes out wrong. I make a habit of shaving off the pins, so often they are out of place.
I take the other approach. I put a drill in my pinvise just a little bit larger in diameter than the pin, then drill down till the dimple is somewhat deeper than the original. Allows a bit of alignment correction and aids in reducing the thickness of the seam.
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
Both the front and back have slot in parts with poor alignment. The small bit on the front has a peg that plugs into a hole but the holes bigger than the peg is which makes it worthless for alignment.
Yeah, sometimes the pins suck, sometimes they actually create alignment and fit problems. I usually trim off the pins to try to get nearly perfect alignment, as I have found it cuts down on filling. Limited run kits frequently lack any pins, making the builder guess how parts should be aligned. Sometime I guess wrong.
But looking ahead in the instructions is a good habit regardless.
“Ya ya ya, unicorn papoi!”
Which part are you talking about? The front glacis or the v-shaped deflector?
I build 1/48 scale WW2 fighters.
Have fun.
stikpusher Morrison Revell 1/72 T-90. New tooling 2013.
Morrison
Revell 1/72 T-90. New tooling 2013.
Revell 1/72 T-90.
New tooling 2013.
Thanks for replying with the kit name.
That's what confuses me so much. A kit that new should have learned a lesson or two about alignment pegs. If your internal detail is completely missing why not make them straight male to female plugs?
Is Tamiya the same as Revell?
GMorrison Revell 1/72 T-90. New tooling 2013.
Well those molds shouldn’t be sloppy yet...
F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!
U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!
N is for NO SURVIVORS...
- Plankton
LSM
Modeling is an excuse to buy books.
Cdn Colin Maybe the molds are just really old and worn out.
Maybe the molds are just really old and worn out.
My guess also is that this is the source of your situation. Which Revell kit is it?
I am in the process of building an ICM Mig3 with zero pin guides. I will take "loose" ones every time.
Sooner Born...Buckeye Bred.
I'm putting together a Revell kit at the moment for the Corona group build and I'm having difficulty with part alignment. Revell kits have really small dents in an entirely covered part to push the slot the front panel on, they're really shallow and have a lot of movement. I wouldn't have known how to align it if I didn't look ahead in the instructions. Why do companies still do this instead of making a larger peg and putting the dip through entirely into a hole? Maybe I'm spoiled by Bandai but I don't understand it, whats the point of including slots for alignment then making them loose so you're unsure where to sit the piece?
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