Questions on airbrushing (Future/Klear/Pledge)

Thanks, John, I was curious to know!

This is the result of using Future on a 1/12 scale model car. I think that I did not allow the base paint enough time to cure. BEWARE!!!!!

the Baron

 

 

pilotjohn

 

I no longer use it.  I had used Model Master Acryl clear, and now I am using Mission Models clear coat.  Both work very well.  

From my perspective, we spend a lot of money and time on our kits.  The first thing people will see is the paint and the finish.  Why skimp on that?  A bad paint job cannot be saved with photo etched rudder pedals and a super detailed wheel well bay.  Just my .02.

John  

 

 

 

Did you have a bad experience using Future?  Because I don't see it as skimping.  I use it to gloss-coat before applying decals, and I use it to dip clear parts. I have never, ever had any problems using it, myself.  So because it works, it's not skimping, which implies taking ill-advised shortcuts or leaving out something that should be there.

 

Baron;

Perhaps skimping was the wrong choice of words.  I was referring to substituting a product specifcally designed for one use being used for another as it is less expensive.  I guess I am uncertain for a couple of reasons.  These are mine and who knows:

They have changed the packaging many times over the last few years, and we don't know if the formula has changed.  It comes in direct contact with our paint and what the long term affect is I don't know.  I do know that the SDS and the ingredients listed posted by Pledge has several proprietary items and there is a list of others as well that I don't know about.

Their website instructions specifically say to remove it from the surface annually by stripping it off with their stripper/cleaner.  Why do that unless it would be breaking down?  We of course don't walk on our models:)

My bottle (which is now a few years old so who knows what the formula is compared to others) appears slightly yellow in the bottle.  Perhaps that is why the website instructions also say to strip it off the floor after 6 to 8 applications?  A couple of thin coats on a model would not have the thickness of 6 to 8 sponge coats on a floor.  I had read in the past where some folks had said their whites had yellowed after a few years. 

I would rather just buy 4 or 5 bottles at $7.00 each each year and not have to worry in a few years that my $100 plus 1/32 build now has a paint job that looks bad.  The paint is covered with the Future and then that is covered with another "dull" or flat coat.  I don't think Future was designed to be covered over with something else.

I have had mixed results with canopy dipping as it usually was a bit "wavy" when it dried.  A little like an old piece of glass.  Anyway, folks a lot better at building and smarter than me have used it for a long time without issues, so I guess once again we as modelers have alternatives and that is a good thing.

John

pilotjohn

 

I no longer use it.  I had used Model Master Acryl clear, and now I am using Mission Models clear coat.  Both work very well.  

From my perspective, we spend a lot of money and time on our kits.  The first thing people will see is the paint and the finish.  Why skimp on that?  A bad paint job cannot be saved with photo etched rudder pedals and a super detailed wheel well bay.  Just my .02.

John  

Did you have a bad experience using Future?  Because I don't see it as skimping.  I use it to gloss-coat before applying decals, and I use it to dip clear parts. I have never, ever had any problems using it, myself.  So because it works, it's not skimping, which implies taking ill-advised shortcuts or leaving out something that should be there.

RickS

Pardon my intrusion, but just getting back into the hobby, I've seen a number of posts mentioning Future.  We are talking about the floor wax, right?  I never heard of using it on models way back when I was a kid, but it makes sense for shining up a nice glossy finish.  But why airbrush rather than apply by hand or brush? What is it thinned with?  If anyone can post, or point me to a thread that outlines the application process of Future, I'd appreciate it!

Built a lot of models over many years as a kid.... and still feel like a green recruit!  So much to learn!

Rick

 

Im screaming green too.  But here is what ive found.  It is really thin to begin with so no thinning.  And yes its the old Future floor wax.  It is currectly called "Pledge - Revive It' and i was able to get i through Amazon Fresh.  Ive tried it with a brush and its not too bad.  One of thge reasons people seem to like it is they claim (and i tend to agree) it self levels very nicely.  I think its just easier to go after multiple thin coats with an airbrush .  But in my 'very green opinion' you could get away with a brush.  There are several videos on YouTube talking about it that i found very helpful.  Hope that helps.

Youre welcome Rick. Have fun learning. There is a lot of trial and errror in this hobby. But, it’s all in fun.

Thanks SP! Great info!  And the ability to use it for a dull cote is amazing!

So much to learn, so much to learn!

RickS

Pardon my intrusion, but just getting back into the hobby, I've seen a number of posts mentioning Future.  We are talking about the floor wax, right?  I never heard of using it on models way back when I was a kid, but it makes sense for shining up a nice glossy finish.  But why airbrush rather than apply by hand or brush? What is it thinned with?  If anyone can post, or point me to a thread that outlines the application process of Future, I'd appreciate it!

Built a lot of models over many years as a kid.... and still feel like a green recruit!  So much to learn!

Rick

 

Yes, Future the floor care product. IIRC, their original advertising tag line was, “Acrylic, tougher than wax”.

Airbrushing Future allows you better control and to get a nice even coat. There’s no need to thin the stuff, it airbrushes perfectly fine straight from the bottle. I’ve been using the stuff as my go to gloss coat since the mid to late 90s. Yes, there are other products out there that do the same thing, but I’ve not yet had a reason to turn away after I switched to Future. Future can even be used as Dullcoat by adding Tamiya Flat Base at a roughly 1 part flat Base to 4 parts Future ratio. Higher proportions of Flat Base to Future and the mix dries foggy.

The only area I would not recommend airbrushing on Future is for clear parts. Those are best dipped into the stuff, the excess wicked off at a corner, and allowed to dry in a covered place where dust cannot get onto the item. I have tried airbrushing Future onto a canopy once, and did not care for the results. 

Lots of people like Testors rattle cans for their clear coats. But in my experience, as those builds age, the Testors clear coats can discolor over time, as well as show interaction tide marks with decal solutions. It takes years to appear, but it’s there. No thank you. I won’t use those products anymore, and in twenty some odd years of using Future, I’ve had no similar issues. 

The only real worry moments that I have had with Future was with some stronger decal solvents such as Solvaset. After the stuff had done it’s work, it left a white dried area around the decal. DO NOT PANIC!!!! Simply add another application of Future to the affected area, and the the interaction marks are removed. 

Pardon my intrusion, but just getting back into the hobby, I've seen a number of posts mentioning Future.  We are talking about the floor wax, right?  I never heard of using it on models way back when I was a kid, but it makes sense for shining up a nice glossy finish.  But why airbrush rather than apply by hand or brush? What is it thinned with?  If anyone can post, or point me to a thread that outlines the application process of Future, I'd appreciate it!

Built a lot of models over many years as a kid.... and still feel like a green recruit!  So much to learn!

Rick

richiev

From the forums and elsewhere I've picked up the tip that future/Klear or as I have it here Pledge Revive It (clear floor gloss) is a good gloss coat to use on projects.  So my questions are around how best to use in airbrush.  I tried to use it conservatively but it is very thin and seems to 'drip' and collect pools in parts.  

So my questions are 

1. Am I using a good product?  Or do you recommend something else
2. What PSI and distance should i be using it? (I was at 20PSI and tried to be 3-4 inches away)
3. Any other advice in general so i can get a nice smooth coat and avoid pools/drips etc.

Thank you in advance.  Im building a AMT 1934 Ford Pickup truck.  Its my 3rd model and with each model im building im learning more and things are looking better.  But im still embarassed to show you experts what i build.  Hopefully someday.

 

Thanks.

 

RichieV

 

Update: 

So i dialed the PSI in my Iwata NEO back down to ~12PSI.  Worked like a champion!  No pooling and much better coverage.  Thanks for all the advice!  RichieV

Thanks.  But maybe ill build a couple/few more first.  This is my 3rd and already its night and day from my 1st kit.  

richiev

 

 

pilotjohn

It does go on a lot like water, so as they said lower air pressure.  Remember, it is first a floor wax product.  I have a bottle that has been around for a while and it looks slightly yellow.  I don't know about studies over the long-term on models.

It is inexpensive compared to the model specific clears out there.  Just my .02.

John

 

 

 

 

 

John,

 

So do you use it or do you use one of the model specific clears?

 

I no longer use it.  I had used Model Master Acryl clear, and now I am using Mission Models clear coat.  Both work very well.  

From my perspective, we spend a lot of money and time on our kits.  The first thing people will see is the paint and the finish.  Why skimp on that?  A bad paint job cannot be saved with photo etched rudder pedals and a super detailed wheel well bay.  Just my .02.

John  

Great technical advice useful for me also. For my part I would encourage you to post some of your builds, we are all at different levels of experience and skills. I too was anxious but you will find that the positive feed back you get will be a great boost to your confidence and will add to your modelling experience. 

richiev

Follow up question: 

1. How long do you let it cure before working on the model again?

 

That depends upon your climate, humidity and temperature, and what sort of work you plan on doing. For decals I like to wait overnite at least. Humidity and temperature affect drying time.

Im using a gravity fed Iwata Neo.  So should i back down to 10 or 15psi?  From what distance away from model?

Gravity feed requires less air pressure, so yes, try at 15psi, and go from there. Distance sounds ok, but maybe back off an inch or two. Experiment and see what works best for you.

Follow up question: 

1. How long do you let it cure before working on the model again?

pilotjohn

It does go on a lot like water, so as they said lower air pressure.  Remember, it is first a floor wax product.  I have a bottle that has been around for a while and it looks slightly yellow.  I don't know about studies over the long-term on models.

It is inexpensive compared to the model specific clears out there.  Just my .02.

John

 

John,

So do you use it or do you use one of the model specific clears?

GMorrison

After application, look over your model for any collected drips or pools. Use the torn edge of a piece of paper towel to wick it off. Check a couple of times over the first 15 minutes or so.

Clean your a/b with a Windex spray.

 

GREAT advice on both - Whew - I did both of those.  

stikpusher

Dial down your air pressure a bit. What sort of air brush are you using? Gravity feed or siphon feed? Apply several light misted on coats. If your putting on enough to pool or drip, it's too much. 

 

Im using a gravity fed Iwata Neo.  So should i back down to 10 or 15psi?  From what distance away from model?

It does go on a lot like water, so as they said lower air pressure.  Remember, it is first a floor wax product.  I have a bottle that has been around for a while and it looks slightly yellow.  I don't know about studies over the long-term on models.

It is inexpensive compared to the model specific clears out there.  Just my .02.

John

After application, look over your model for any collected drips or pools. Use the torn edge of a piece of paper towel to wick it off. Check a couple of times over the first 15 minutes or so.

Clean your a/b with a Windex spray.

Dial down your air pressure a bit. What sort of air brush are you using? Gravity feed or siphon feed? Apply several light misted on coats. If your putting on enough to pool or drip, it's too much.