Artist's acrylic paints

I know that some use them in water scenes (to tint clear liquitex) and dio groundwork.

I find them to be far too thick to paint models.

If you neeed to they can be used on models, larger scale figures especially.  You will probably have to dilute with, maybe with artist thinner.  I just did a model of Scrat that I stmbled on and used a combination of enamels, acrylics and artist tube acrylic paint.

I think Shep Paine used to use artist paints on some of his projects.  Experiment.

Sometimes I also use artist charcoal that I sonded into a powder for shading, but I'm still learning.

Don't let price be a factor. After all the hours spent building a model, it's just not worth it.

Also you will have to mix to match colors if it matters to you.

I used them a lot when I was a model railroader as they sort of looked "right" when trying to look like cheap weathered paint.

I do use artist's oils for weathering. I dilute it a lot, like a dab in a 1/4 cup of turpenoid, and wash over a clear barrier coat. Handy there.

Bill

I'm going to have to try using oil paints.  I'm fairly new to figures and for some reason it never occured to me. Thanks for the idea.  

Word of caution: unless heavily thinned, oils take a long time to dry.

It's possible to use craft acrylics and get good results. Check out this guys video. Also notice all the plastic spoons in the background for testing!

https://youtu.be/fGWTuFtOYrY

Another video of a guy using craft paint and getting amazing results

https://youtu.be/_bbHTLgPXaM

Something to look into!

I've been using artist oil paints with heavily thinned thinner, on a gloss dry over coat for years.  I use Windsor-Newton oil paint, and I use dull coat (laquer) over it all.  The artist oil paint works well.  It was Shep Pain who got me hooked on his method.  Acrylic never worked as well.

I've used Michael's house brand acrylics.  I wanted an ocher-like color that I wanted but could not find in a model paint.  Michaels did not have the exact shade I was lookiing for, but they had about every shade of primary colors, and they were cheap.  I bought two bottles, one each side of the color I was looking for and got a satisfactory mix.  I thinned it with the ratio I tried on a couple of model acrylics and it worked fine.  It seems to be a bit slower drying than some of the model acrylics I have tried, which I consider a plus.

But, I don't like having to mix color each time, so I will be looking for a replacement for Testors enamel.  I will be working with acrylics to get better at using them (I find it hard to get a good gloss when that is called for). 

I see a lot of garage shop operations coming out these days with model paints.  Something must have happened to make starting such a business easier.  Hope someone comes up with an enamel as good as Testors was, or distributors widen the distribution of Humbrol.

Having-fun

 

I did a search to see if I could find any discussion about this subject I was unable to find anything. Basically this is what I am asking

Can artist's paints be used for models? Is there a reason not to use them?

I am asking because I have several artist's acrylic paints from a time in which I believed that I had artistic talents ( I found out very quickly that I did not! LOL ) 

It also appears that artist paints are somewhat cheaper that modeler's paints. 

Yes, aboslutely you can use them.

Some of the other posters have touched on this-thin the paints, especially if you are talking about tubes of acrylic paints.  I don't paint paintings, so I don't know how someone using them to paint on a canvas might use them-maybe right out of the tube?  For scale modeling use, however, thin them to a thin consistency.  Same goes for oils.  No one I know who uses oils for painting a figure, for example, would use the paint right out of the tube, unthinned.  The thicker the paint, the more it will obscure relief detail on a piece.  Properly thinned, you can lay down a layer of paint by hand, as thin as if you had used an airbrush.

I use some tube acrylics, along with the craft store acrylics that someone else mentioned, and along with purpose-made acrylics from companies like Andrea, Vallejo, Lifecolor.

I was notified by my daughters that my present for father's day will be a Iwata-Medea Eclipse HP CS air brush, I will have to hit YouTube to find training for this new tool, I will assume that artist's colors may be too thick for the airbrush, but I still may be use them for small details that would require the use of a regular brush.

As I have stated in my "What would be the next one” tread, I finally decided to get an interim model to keep myself busy until I am able to secure a bigger one of my liking. The model I have ordered is the British Man Of War 1:96 from Revell, let us see how it goes.

Thanks all of you for your recommendations and answers to my questions

Joe

What a gift!  I purchased the same brush about 4-5 weeks ago.  After experimenting with thinning ratios and air pressure I couldn’t be happier.  

wpwar11

What a gift!  I purchased the same brush about 4-5 weeks ago.  After experimenting with thinning ratios and air pressure I couldn’t be happier.  

 

Would you mind sharing the settings you found to work best with me? Thanks. I have never ever used an airbrush, so this will be a learnng experience for me.

Joe

Having-fun

 

...

As I have stated in my "What would be the next one” tread, I finally decided to get an interim model to keep myself busy until I am able to secure a bigger one of my liking. The model I have ordered is the British Man Of War 1:96 from Revell, let us see how it goes.

Thanks all of you for your recommendations and answers to my questions

Joe

 

You may want to start a WIP thread in the ships forum on the build, Joe.  I do not remember anyone on that forum building that kit since I joined that forum many years ago.  I would sure follow it.  I like sailing warship models.  There are some real sailing ship experts that hang out in that forum.

Don Stauffer

 You may want to start a WIP thread in the ships forum on the build, Joe.  I do not remember anyone on that forum building that kit since I joined that forum many years ago.  I would sure follow it.  I like sailing warship models.  There are some real sailing ship experts that hang out in that forum.

 

Yes Don, I will be starting a tread on the building of the this ship, it is supposed to arrive on Monday, and, rest assure, I will be asking a lot of questions from you guys. It is my intend to take my time with it and try to make as realistic ( not necessarily historically accurate ) as I can make it.

Joe

PD. Pardon my ignorance, what does WIP stands for?

Sure.  I use Tamiya acrylic paints and use 2:1 paint to thinner.  I use a pipette and place the thinner in first followed by the paint.  I stir the paint with an old Testors brush and set the pressure in the 15-18 range.  I always test the spray on a paper towel first.  I hold the brush 3-4” away from the subject and keep the brush moving in left to right then right to left passes being sure to cover the piece.   The same motion as a professional who paints cars.  The compressor is an Iwata smart jet. 

I‘m still learning and haven’t sprayed the bigger pieces like an airplanes fuselage yet.  I’m sure there is a different method for bigger pieces.  the cockpit pieces for my current build look great.  It will definitely up your game.  Have fun.

Having-fun

PD. Pardon my ignorance, what does WIP stands for? 

 

I find artists acrylic paints work well for painting figures for dioramas.  They are thick for sure, but they dry quickly and you can paint over them.  You may have to thin them a bit.  When painting a figure, think about dressing the figure - skin first, then shirt, jacket, tie, shoes - you only have to be careful on the last paint coat.  I use a tooth pick for fine detail.  Remember to apply a primer coat - I use the Tamya primer.  I use both Preiser and Woodland Scenics figures.

wpwar11

Sure.  I use Tamiya acrylic paints and use 2:1 paint to thinner.  I use a pipette and place the thinner in first followed by the paint.  I stir the paint with an old Testors brush and set the pressure in the 15-18 range.  I always test the spray on a paper towel first.  I hold the brush 3-4” away from the subject and keep the brush moving in left to right then right to left passes being sure to cover the piece.   The same motion as a professional who paints cars.  The compressor is an Iwata smart jet. 

I‘m still learning and haven’t sprayed the bigger pieces like an airplanes fuselage yet.  I’m sure there is a different method for bigger pieces.  the cockpit pieces for my current build look great.  It will definitely up your game.  Have fun.

 

Thanks! A ratio of 2 paint and 1 thinner, and the air 15-18, got it!

Joe

Space Ranger

 

 

Having-fun

PD. Pardon my ignorance, what does WIP stands for? 

 

 

 

 

WIP = Work in Progress 

 

Thanks, I never did like soup of letters, LOL. I am not very good at remembering phrases when they only show the first letter of the word.

Joe

I finally got my new airbrush, what a beautiful piece of engineering! I can not wait until I try it out. I am awaiting for some fittings that I need to attached the airbrush to my small shop compressor.

Joe