Help I sprayed gloss coat on my clear parts by accident

Itz Marcus

Well the topic says it all. I was spraing the model with gloss coat and it got on the canopy (which is glued to the model already) It is all cloudy now. Is there anything that can be done?

Thanx

Itz 

Hi, Itz, what did you use for your gloss coat?  That will determine the resolution.

If it was Future, you can use a weak ammonia solution to dissolve and remove it.  Windex works, or you can just mix a couple drops of ammonia in some water.  I do this, when I spray Future as a gloss coat and I get pooling or drips that dry.  I'll use a paint brush or even a cotton swab to apply the solution.

If your gloss coat is a lacquer, it might not be possible to remove it.  Lacquer thinners are "hot" solvents and might damage the plastic.  But others will be able to speak to that.

You might have to sand/polish the damaged area out, then apply a clear over it.

Best regards,

Brad

Yes what did you use?

GMorrison

Yes what did you use?

 

Hi, 

Thanx for the replies!

I used an arcrylic based gloss coat that I bought in home depot.

Thanx 

Itz

I just went through a similar situation last night. I dipped my car clear parts into Humbrol Clear Gloss Varnish and it came out patchy. I used Windolene (the South African equivalent of Windex I suppose) and some alcohol patches and it's back to normal. 

Hi Itsy;

 If you used Acrylic you can remove it with Windex or any suitable window cleaner thet has a tad of ammonia in it. If you used Enamel then Mineral spirits used gently should work. Did you say Ho,e depot in the same sentence? I believe you have just sprayed your model with Acrylic lacquer, Maybe Not. Check the can Contents!

It's always a good idea to test new products first.

Tanker-Builder

...Check the can Contents! 

I'll second Tanker-Builder's advice: check the label on the container.  It might tell you what to use to clean up the material.

If removing the acrylic fails, and as a last resort, you might try applying more of the clear acryl....with a brush.

Sounds like you got a misty overspray that was pretty much dry by the time it hit the surface, a common challenge spraying acrylic gloss coats through typically used airbrushes. I think we've all done it.

Acrylic clears gone frosty or otherwise damaged can often be repaired with a wet coat on top, and with the situation you have I mentioned using a brush because I think that might be your best bet in this case.

surgical spirit and cotton buds.

Mask the canopy next time!

If all fails brush on some Fiture. It may just work.

snapdragonxxx

surgical spirit...

What's "surgical spirt"?  I can guess, but I've never heard of it before.

the Baron

What's "surgical spirt"?

I think that's when a surgeon accidentally nicks an artery, Brad. Oh wait, that's "spurt". Nevermind.

No idea what surgical spirit is either, though.

Sorry, too much time on hands here.....

Hi,

Thanx so much for the replies. I tried the windex with amonia and it did not work. Looked at the spray can instructions but I am afraid to try mineral spirits which is what the pray can said to do because i'm afraid it will ruin the paint. I could mask it but it will be hard to protect the canopy painted window frames. I'll do what I have to but I was hoping for an esy solution.

Itz

Itz Marcus

...I used an arcrylic based gloss coat that I bought in home depot.

Going forward, you might do better to buy a product made specifically for scale modeling, instead of a product sold through hardware stores for other purposes.

There are exceptions to this rule, of course.  I use Future as a gloss coat, for example, and mineral spirits bought at Home Depot, and lacquer thinner from an auto supply store.  But I know how those products work, too, so I don't have any surprises.

Without knowing the brand and the composition of the product you bought, I'd be leery of using it on a model, without testing it first.

the Baron

 

 

Itz Marcus

...I used an arcrylic based gloss coat that I bought in home depot.

 

 

 

Going forward, you might do better to buy a product made specifically for scale modeling, instead of a product sold through hardware stores for other purposes.

There are exceptions to this rule, of course.  I use Future as a gloss coat, for example, and mineral spirits bought at Home Depot, and lacquer thinner from an auto supply store.  But I know how those products work, too, so I don't have any surprises.

Without knowing the brand and the composition of the product you bought, I'd be leery of using it on a model, without testing it first.

 

I here ya. 

I'm new to the hobby (been in and out for a long time but first time learning from the forums etc) amd will be learning from many mistakes! Oh well!

Itz

Surgical spirit is used to swab and clean skin sores, athletes foot and sanitise skin its main ingredient is industrial metholated spirit and the active ingredient is menthyl salicylate. There are others too.

It will thin and remove acrylic paint from the plastic without damaging the plastic at all. I had cause to use it recently on the B-17 while painting stars and bars on the port upper wing surface. It didn't go so well with the masks so I masked off the panel once dry and used Surgical spirit to remove the paint back to the plastic, using kitchen paper and cotton buds etc, wiped with a dam paper towel with normal water and let dry for 24 hours before repainting the base coat and then the stars and bars. Looks 100% better!

you should be able to get this from Phamacies or the medicine section in your local supermarket.

It smells, you can't drink it and has a shelf like of about 3 years, doesn't melt plastic and won't harm you if it gets spilt.....

Although if you have an open cut or something it will sting like the devil but will clean the wound!!!!

A useful thing for the first aid cabinet or the paint shelf!

Very useful to mask canopies off during painting...

removing masks from the cockpit area when done gives you this....