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Honestly? I wouldn't worry about glue ruining red clear parts. Sure take as much glue as you can off. It's not worth the hassle trying to remove all of it because you're still going to have residual glue left behind no matter what.
Instead, do this.... clean it up by sanding the glue off, then paint them using Testors #2724 Stop Light Metallic Red. It looks waaaaaay better than ordinary red clear parts. I promise you, it'll make a huge improvement than ordinary clear red parts. Just don't use Testors #2756 Turn Signal Red Gloss - it doesn't look realistic.
Also... use Testors # 2723 Turn Signal Amber Metallic paint for your side marker lights/turn signal lenses. You'll be glad you invested in thoose two colors.
Your welcome. I have loads of parts.
Jim
Stay Safe.
Main WIP:
On the Bench: Artesania Latina (aka) Artists in the Latrine 1/75 Bluenose II
I keep hitting "escape", but I'm still here.
fox If nothing works, send me a PM with a photo of the part and I'll check my drawer of headlights and tail lights (74 years worth) and see if I have 1 or 2 of them. If I have them, their yours. Jim Stay Safe.
If nothing works, send me a PM with a photo of the part and I'll check my drawer of headlights and tail lights (74 years worth) and see if I have 1 or 2 of them. If I have them, their yours.
Oh thanks for the opporotunity,but I got it all fixed;I just scraped it off with acetone,washed it immedeately and then coated it with Testors DullCote(EDIT:GlossCote).It didn't look perfect,but it was a lot better than before!
Thanks,TheModeler(Novice Mode{Just for now})
ON THE BENCH(My first ones):
-1:25 AMT/Round2 1969 Yenko Camaro(40% done)
-1:72 Atlantis Models Bell UH-1B Gunship Helicopter (20% done)
In the stash:
-1963 AMT 1/32 Corvette Stingray
-Tamiya Mitsubishi A6M3 "Hamp" Zero,1/76
-Atlantis Models BELL Firefighter "Old Smokey",1/76
try freezing it and then picking it off.
Modeling is an excuse to buy books.
You'll have trouble not affecting the plastic in some way. All realistic ways to remove super glue involve a solvent. Mineral spirits, acetone, goo gone (limonene), or debonder (dimethylformamide) are realistically the only things that can get it off. It's just going to take being careful and going slow, making sure not to get too much sitting on the styrene.
When you get it off just try to repair it's clearness with a clear gloss coat of future, pledge, whatever you use...it will probably still look a little janky, but it will be better than having a blob of CA on it.
-- rev_barabbas --
Keep going, don't quit.
That happened to me when I was filling a seam. The glue dried and became harder then the plastic not even sanding would work .
Nick.
Justinryan215 Maybe super glue de-bonder?
Maybe super glue de-bonder?
Possibly,but I want something that potentially won't harm the plastic.
"...failure to do anything because someone else can do better makes us rather dull and lazy..."
Mortal as I am,I know that I am born for a day. But when I follow at my pleasure the serried multitude of the stars in their circular course, my feet no longer touch the Earth...
Hello,my fellow modelers--
I accidently left a tube of super glue open and some of it dried onto one of my red transparent parts(Rear bumper light for a car),and I don't have any spares so is there any way to clean it off?I do know you can use acetone but there is a huge chance it will damage the styrene plastic in some way.Can I just use soap and water,or are there any other cleaning solutions?
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