Beginner questions about weathering

My question answered! Thanks to everyone who responded. Next on the list: a small "mule" model to test various techniques. 

Bob 

Bobstamp

Weathering woes: I've tried to do my "homework" (What other kind is there, these days?) by reading scores of magazine articles, web pages, and watching videos, but so far I haven't figured out how to proceed. I can tell you that I've tried enamel and terpentine, artists' oil paints and terpentine, pastel sticks, colored pens and pencils, but the effects have generally been underwhelming, if they're visible at all (although in one case too much oil paint stained but failed to "weather" the model.

The problem with most advice pieces I've read or watched deal only with the modellers' favourite techniques, and the modellers themselves are obviously experts who seem to have forgotten that we beginners are...beginners! So I'd like to start at the beginning, with this apparetly vital question:

I understand that before weathering begins, the model should be "complete" with all decals applied and details painted. But what then? Should the entire model be coated with Future or clear spray? If spray — I only use rattle cans — should it be glossy, semi-glossy, or matte? I think it shouldn't be glossy, because the one time I tried weather a model painted with glossy paint (Tamiya yellow) I couldn't get oil paint or pastels to stick at all. But perhaps I didn't understand something I need to understand! 

The rule of thumb I've generally heard is to mix your media.

If you painted in acrylics, seal with a clear gloss acrylic and apply spirit-based wash materials.    If you painted in enamels, seal with a spirit-based clear gloss and apply a water-based  wash.   This prevents the wash from eating into the underlying paint layers.   While the clear coat to paint layer is not real critical, the clear coat to wash layer is.   The clear coat is a barrier protecting the underlying paint.  Always allow the clear coat to sufficiently dry before proceeding

Using a clear gloss allows for easier manipulation of the wash,  it flows better.  A flat clear tends to stain as the wash becomes trapped among the micro particles which are the flattening agent.    The clear gloss also facilitates clean up of mistakes.   

Because decals seem to look better when apply to a gloss surface and you want your decal markings to look consistent with the surface you may want to clear coat, decal, clear coat again (at least the decal area), then apply the wash.

To achieve a flat final appearance, apply a flat clear which is compatible with the wash layer in that it will not affect the wash's appearance.

I know that Prismacolor pencils are water colors.  I handle them like water-based washes.   I also use them after a final flat coat to pick out chips and scuffs.   Use what works for you

And to answer your specific question, yes apply the clear coat sealer to the entire model.  You do not want the wash running into an unprotected area and staining a flat paint.

Paint - seal - wash - seal

What kind of effects are you trying to apply.Weathering is a broad term,so decide what you are trying to do and concentrate on that technique.

Fading,washing,dusting,mud,stains,pre shading,post shading,panel lines,rust,grime.

So what are you attempting

There is an old saying, "there are more than one ways to klin a cat."  Weathering is a good example.  For any effect you want in weathering, there are often several ways to obtain that effect.  None of them are right- it is frequently more a way that is more comfortable for you- or depends on the quality of the airbrush you have, or the type of paint you use for basic painting.  Dot filtering, washes, or drybrushing can produce the same type of effect.  So do it the way that is most comfortable for you.

But I would practice any technique you are not familiar with before using it on a good model.  Some folks buy a cheap kit for practicing- others use old kits from their stash that they determine they will never build.  Others use scrap plastic, others use plastic spoons- even if you buy them new for practice material they are pretty cheap.  By such practice you will determine for yourself which are the best methods for you. 

The most important effect you need to achieve is to slightly change the tone or brightness of a color- that is make a translucent effect.

Great question.  I watch a ton of videos as a new modeler and always go away wanting more information.   I'm in the same boat as you Bob but here is what I have found.  The Flory Eagle mentioned is easy and fail safe.  If you like a more grimy look it works great on a matte finish.  For specific areas like panel lines a gloss coat works great as it's a little easier to remove.  At least that's my experience.  It's clay based so you can just remove it all if you don't like it.

I generally weather over a matte surface.  The decals and all have been sealed already.  Im really starting to like pencils and micron pens.  With a matte surface they "grip" better on matte.  I want to get better with oils as I really like the results but they have been tricky.  One thing I discovered with oils-a small amount goes a long way.  Especially black. 

I think we will figure it out.  What also helped me is slowing down.  Weathering the model you are almost done but take your time here.  No need to rush.

I use the washes made by Flory Models for all of my weathering/panel line accenting.  You just slop the stuff all over the model with a large brush, wait about 30 minutes for it to all dry, then take off as much or as little of the excess as you like with a sponge and/or q-tips dampened with plain old water.  If you have decals to protect, use your favorite clear coat for that, but with Flory Wash the clear coat isn't necessary for the purposes of protecting paint from it or the removal process...it WILL NOT attack any paint, no matter how long you leave it on the model.

G'Day Bob. I agree with John, but I only apply a gloss coat before placing decals. Then I matt coat and start to weather. One of the tips I picked up on this site was to seal the paint job with a different product than what you will be using to thin your washes with. eg. If you are using turps to thin oil paints, then use an acrylic for your initial protective coat and vice versa. I cannot speak about future, as we don't have it in Oz. Wish we did!

Bob, like your research, there are a lot of techniques and opinions.  A good gloss coat over the pre weathered model is a good idea to protect the finish.  I and many others spray future acrylic with an airbrush as it protects your finish and mostly doesn't react with the products/techniques you have seen.  Without that you could use pastels to weather.  Buy a basic set of black to grey.  Pick a color like lamp black or a dark grey depending on the kit and scrape of some off some dust with an exacto. Use a small stiff brush and go over the panel lines sparingly, exhaust etc.  Another technique I used was a drafting pencil with a sharpened tip and a soft lead and go over the panel lines.  As we have discussed before, Flory washes are great for this as well and super simple.