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Hi guys,
I've now attempted Fujimi's Ford GT40 MKII twice. I'm having a problem making the decals 'sink' into the details.
On the first attempt, I used Micro-Set and Micro-Sol + hairdryer, but when I saw that it wasn't working too well, I purchased Tamiya's yellow cap Mark Fit Strong specifically for my second attempt. See the result below:
(Mind the chunks that are not there. That's just a mistake I made with masking).
How is it that guys like Plasmo can get the following result:
It's almost like he painted it on! What's the procedure here?
Into model building since September 2019. Also into books (mostly science-fiction), comic books, and gaming.
The only thing that stood out for me in your technique is that you mentioned a hair dryer. When you're using decal setting and solvent solutions, its best to brush it on and then leave it alone so it has time to work. If you use something like a hair dryer, you're accelerating the evaporation of the solvent and its not going to have time to soften the decal. I personally use Microsol, as I have found Solvaset to be too aggressive (just personal choice though), and sometimes it takes multiple applications to get the decal to gradually settle into panel lines. Brush it on so its in a nice, wet layer on the decal, and then walk away. Don't mess with the decal while the solvent is working on it, even if you see it shriveling. The shriveling is normal and will resolve itself...it means the solvent is doing its job. I have had luck with a gentle tracing of panel lines with a fine microbrush applicator in between solvent applications, when the solvent has all evaporated, to help slowly "stretch" the decals and encourage them to start settling into the panel lines.
"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."
I have had excellent results following the directions using either Micro Sol Red or Solvaset.No magic bullets or secrets.No heat added.
Just a couple of examples,decals really sunk into the zimm
My figures,well that's another story
X2 on others comments. I do occasionaly come across decals that are just too thick to respond to the solvents. Usually the kit makers will say decals do not respond to solvents in the instructions.
Hi, I am Lee, I am a plastiholic.
Co. A, 682 Engineers, Ltchfield, MN, 1980-1986
1 Thessalonians 4:13-18 1 Corinthians 15:51-54
Ask me about Speedway Decals
Oh Boy!
You mentioned something I have in 70 years of modeling, NEVER done! You mentioned a Hair Dryer! I use Solvaset Red and Blue and sometimes the Tamiya product. BUT, NEVER a hair dryer! You MUST try to adhere to the instructions on the bottles. NOTE 1: some companies will tell you in the instructions that their Decals MAY not react well with Setting Solutions!
Then, it's time to hit the H.S. or Inet to find aftermarket Decals that will work for you! I have used a hair dryer to speed the drying of paint along. Only from inside the body of the model(if it is a car). Otherwise, No Way Jose' NOTE 2; Is that a Matte finish I see? That's part of your problem right there! Look at The picture you are guaging yours by. He has a very high gloss finish. No Decal likes to stick to a Matte finish, Well, Mostly. Read how many of the modelers here, Yours truly included, that put a gloss-coat either on the whole model( lotsa decals) or just in the spots where decals go.
Matte coat is microscopically pebbly. That lets air get in under and between the decal and the surface. Solutions are an aid, Not a miracle for that type of finish. I don't mean to sound like I am shouting at you, but, take the decals off. Gloss those spots carefully. ( If you don;t want to use Enamel. Use craft clear Acrylic) It's thinner, Cleans up well and will give you the results you want. Plu,s when Your finished, a fine coat of scale Flat clear Acrylic will give the whole thing that Matte finish and it will look awesome!
The best decal application tutorial I know of is this one:
https://youtu.be/L_rdwH1EGus
Note that he does not advocate the use of clear gloss coats, and for good reasons. His method works, despite the claims of naysayers on this forum, and I urge you to try it.
Tojo72 I have had excellent results following the directions using either Micro Sol Red or Solvaset.No magic bullets or secrets.No heat added. Just a couple of examples,decals really sunk into the zimm My figures,well that's another story
TB is spot on however I have not seen the linked video so absolutely use the best or easiest information available, I will also echo the statement of patience, let the tools do the work. Above all keep practicing, that Blue Oval looks really cool
we're modelers it's what we do
I too prefer not putting on a gloss coat for decals unless you're going for a gloss finish anyway, only because I've never had an issue with getting the decal to go on smooth on a matte coat (granted I haven't been modelling for very long).
But I'm thinking there is one reason to put on a gloss coat first: When you apply the decal softener, some of it goes on the body coat, and if you haven't sealed that body with gloss, how are you going to clean that residue off?
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