Chrome Paint

I like AK Xtreme metallics.

Molotow liquid chrome is also excellent, don't know whether it can be airbrushed.

Hmmm;

 I think in one thread some time back someone spoke of A/B'ing Molotow. I don't remember clearly though. One thought ,i have Never tried to overspray Molotow with any kind of clear overcoat. The last time I did a Testors M.M.Chrome it turned into a duller finished looking surface. Kind of a Bright Aluminium color!

Alclad makes a chrome (airbrushable lacquer). from what I've seen it looks pretty good.   Model chrome, like 1:1 chrome, must be applied over a finely smoothed and polished base.  A black base coat is recommended.  Alclad also offers some clear red, blue, and smoke colors to tint burns on chrome

Molotow ink appears to be available in bulk from artist supply houses. It should not be a requirement to unload pens.  It will likely be a pricy investment

Alclad gets my vote too.  Like EdGrune said, you need a polished base, but stay away from the Alclad Black Base.  That stuff is inconsistent and takes forever to cure properly.  You can just use plain old Tamiya X-1 and airbrush it for your basecoat and have it ready for chrome in 24 hours.  If you want to clearcoat afterward, the only clearcoat I know of that won't alter the sheen of the Alclad is AK's Gauzy Shine Enhancer.  I have tried it, and it really does what they claim it does.

For the best and most realistic finish use Alclad Chrome. Prepare the pipes by removing kit chrome in Chlorox . This soak will take but a few minutes then rinse under the faucet and dry. Sand any seams and polish smooth. Shoot some gloss black paint making sure it's smooth and let it dry overnight. Next day shoot the Alclad Chrome paint in light coats leaving a hint of the black to peek thru which gives it depth and a VERY realistic metallic tone.

If you want to clear coat it which may not be necessary use Gauzy as Eagle said, the product will not kill the metallic effect.

Tanker-Builder

Hmmm;

 I think in one thread some time back someone spoke of A/B'ing Molotow. I don't remember clearly though. One thought ,i have Never tried to overspray Molotow with any kind of clear overcoat. The last time I did a Testors M.M.Chrome it turned into a duller finished looking surface. Kind of a Bright Aluminium color!

 

I've airbrushed Molotow and it looks great.  I've not clearcoated it though.  Something tells me that it wouldn't be good.  I've used more of the AlClad though and, if done carefully, give a great result. I've ordered some of this which is supposed to play nice with AlClad chrome:

https://www.e7paints.com/product/s-02-chrome-sealer-sealer-20ml/

Dave

Eaglecash867

Alclad gets my vote too.  Like EdGrune said, you need a polished base, but stay away from the Alclad Black Base.  That stuff is inconsistent and takes forever to cure properly.  You can just use plain old Tamiya X-1 and airbrush it for your basecoat and have it ready for chrome in 24 hours.  If you want to clearcoat afterward, the only clearcoat I know of that won't alter the sheen of the Alclad is AK's Gauzy Shine Enhancer.  I have tried it, and it really does what they claim it does.

 

I have never felt a decent Alclad chrome or polished aluminum job needs an overcoat.

For small parts when I am in a hurry, I find the new Testors chrome silver very good, without needing an undercoat.

I'd suggest Rustoleum Chrome in the rattle can if you can paint the parts off of the model.  During the summer most of my builds involve cars,trucks, & motorcycles so I rely on enamel or lacquer rattle cans sprayed outside to get that glossy finish(still eludes me).  I usually strip the chrome from the manufacturer and spray the Rustoleum Chrome and if I can't(chrome trim on the 50s cars) then I turn to either the Molotow pens or my last resort Bare Metal Foil.  

    My 2cents are make sure the plastic is smooth, then lay down a layer of gloss black, finally after the black is completely dry lay dwn your chrome.

     This can be done with an A/B or "hairy stick". If using a regular brush keep the strokes going in the same direction and try not to go back over the area just painted. This will help eliminating brush marks and let the paint smooth out naturally.