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Fixing overspray/bleed under on model with Vallejo paint mixed with Vallejo Glaze

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  • Member since
    April 2010
  • From: Atlanta, GA
Posted by Mustang8376 on Friday, February 11, 2022 12:55 PM

Thank you everyone for the help and suggestions. Big Smile  Definitely something to keep in mind for the next build.  Since the model in Question is USS Defiant from Star Trek Deep SPace 9, not quite willing to strip it and start over just for a couple fo panels.  Might have to see if I can thin the paint enough from when I hand paint the front deflector and the blue for the warp nacelles and be happy witht he look, then I might go for the touch ups on those few panels that need it.

Current build: 1/32 Hasegawa F6F-5

 


Completed:  1/48 Hasegawa F-16C, 1/48 Revell Mig-21PFM, 1/48 Revell/Monogram AH-64A, Revell/Monogram 1/48 F-14D, AMT 1/420 USS Defiant, AMT 1/650(?) USS Enterprise, 1/72 Bandai VF-1J, AMT 1/537 USS Reliant, Academy 1/35 M1-A1 Abrams, Academy 1/48 F-86F30, Linbergh's USS Gato 

  • Member since
    April 2020
Posted by Eaglecash867 on Friday, February 11, 2022 11:46 AM

To add to the advice already given, maybe adjust your airbrushing technique.  I see lots of guys on YouTube giving airbrushing tutorials that want to use their airbrush like a firehose.  The way some of those guys paint, they may as well be using a rattle can.  If you put your paint on thin and light, you won't have to worry about the bleed-under, and any overspray from a missed mask can be dealt with a lot more easily.  When I'm painting along the edge of a masked area, I angle my airbrush from the masked area to the non-masked area (pretty much what EdGrune suggested), use about 20PSI, and dial my airbrush down to a thin, light pencil line.  I use Post-It notes to do a preview of my airbrush pattern to make sure its the way I want it before getting anywhere near the model with it.

"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Mansfield, TX
Posted by EdGrune on Thursday, February 10, 2022 9:23 AM

There is never enough time to do it right, but there always enough time to do it over.

1) Strip it and start over (may be fastest overall)

or

2) Carefully mask the oversprayed area and apply a clear sealer coat to the paint areas you want to remain.   With some ammonia on a Q-tip, CAREFULLY rub the overspray area.  Moist Q-tip, not soaking.   Use only enough pressure as needed.  Did you rub through the paint -- see option 1, or carefully remask the area which you applied the sealer.   You may want to apply a clear sealer coat along the edge of the masking.  Spray LOW pressure (as low as you can & still get paint to move) and away from the tape edge to help prevent paint from being forced into the masked area

  • Member since
    June 2021
Posted by rocketman2000 on Thursday, February 10, 2022 8:28 AM

The way to stop bleeding under edge of tape is to spray a coat of the paint color under the tape along the edge of the tape.  You can also use a coat of clear, but the color you are masking over is the best bet.

 

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    April 2010
  • From: Atlanta, GA
Fixing overspray/bleed under on model with Vallejo paint mixed with Vallejo Glaze
Posted by Mustang8376 on Tuesday, February 8, 2022 2:42 PM

I figured I would ask the question here.  I have some sections of my Defiant model where there was some slight over spray and bleed under from the airbrushing.  I would like to use the fix those areas by hand painting  with Vallejo colors mixed with Vallejo glaze.  I've tried it on section before and it was still somewhat thick when just using thinner and not the glaze.  Would anyone recommend going this route or something different?

Current build: 1/32 Hasegawa F6F-5

 


Completed:  1/48 Hasegawa F-16C, 1/48 Revell Mig-21PFM, 1/48 Revell/Monogram AH-64A, Revell/Monogram 1/48 F-14D, AMT 1/420 USS Defiant, AMT 1/650(?) USS Enterprise, 1/72 Bandai VF-1J, AMT 1/537 USS Reliant, Academy 1/35 M1-A1 Abrams, Academy 1/48 F-86F30, Linbergh's USS Gato 

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