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Tojo72 Yes,the weld glues like Testors Tamiya Extra Thin and the like will fog clear parts...
Yes,the weld glues like Testors Tamiya Extra Thin and the like will fog clear parts...
That's interesting-I'd never heard before that styrene glues fog styrene. I know that if you get the glue on the surfaces where you don't want it, they will mar those surfaces with their action. I use Testor's liquid and even tube glue, and Tamiya Extra Thin, to attach canopies, and it's never caused any fogging of the surfaces.
I've only ever read that it's CA glue that can fog a clear part, when it cures and releases gases that etch the surface.
But yes, using Elmer's and other white glues (PVAs) is safe, and I use Elmer's, too, depending. It can help fill seams around canopy panels, for example.
CB, if you haven't already, you might want to have a look in the Aircraft forum, too, because this topic comes up relatively frequently.
The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.
Tojo72 Yes,the weld glues like Testors Tamiya Extra Thin and the like will fog clear parts.Some manufacturers make what they call canopy glue,it's similar to Elmers,so that's what I use,Elmer's or the like is safe.
Yes,the weld glues like Testors Tamiya Extra Thin and the like will fog clear parts.Some manufacturers make what they call canopy glue,it's similar to Elmers,so that's what I use,Elmer's or the like is safe.
gonna have to disagree with the "Will fog" part of your statement. On the rare occasion I've used the UV resin glues, but my go to is tamiya extra thin, and if you are careful with it, which should be SOP, clear parts don't fog...
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Back in the 70s we used Future to coat any clear parts before gluing, but we would coat both sides before using glue.
I'm with Don on the UV adhesive.
Great stuff, clear, strong and easy to manage (and remove any excess before you harden it with the little bulb), but he's right that you need an exposed surface or seam: the UV won't work through the clear plastic alone.
Greg
George Lewis:
I use white glue when I plan to remove the canopy at a later time, it allows me to do so easily. I use Gorilla crystal clear 5 min epoxy for when I want it to stay FOREVER.
BK
On the bench:
A lot !! And I mean A LOT!!
2024 Kits on deck / in process / completed
14 / 5 / 2
Here's how a friend of mine, an extremely talented modeler, handles clear parts:
"I brush paint Future on the inside of the canopy. Then glue in with Tamiya extra thin. If any hazing of the clear canopy happens, it’s on the outside & you can still fix that. When the model is completed, I brush Future on the outside, which puts the final shine on the canopy."
I use Devcon 2-Ton Epoxy for canopies. Strong bond with no fogging.
For smaller clear parts, such as HUD glass or sensor windows, I use Future as my adhesive.
"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."
I have used UV hardening glue. Not the cheapest and limited shelf life, but works well if you shine beam along the seam. The uv will not penatrate the canopy so hardening the glue does not work if you shine through the canopy to hit the seam.
Epoxy is an old standby for windows and canopies.
Hi Old&Slow,
Here's a link to our FSM video all about glues.
Hope this helps.
--
Timothy Kidwelltkidwell@firecrown.comEditorScale Model BrandsFirecrown Media
I've heard some can cause "fogging".
CB
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