Paint Procedure

That will work,but your clear coats can  also be acrylic,like Vallejo or Alclad Aqua Gloss.

Also for best results,if your going to prime use enamel or lacquer.

You compress step 3 into step 2 if you are using a gloss base coat. Decal directly on the base layer.

KeithRob

Do I have this corret???

1. Primer

2. Base coat

3. Lacquer clear coat  (or is there something else?) 

4. Decals

5. Weathering, streaks smudges, etc

6. Clear flat coat 

 

 

I try and shoot a base coat of glossy or semi-glossy paint so that I can apply the decals, then the clear coat, weathering, etc. If I don't have glossy paint then I'll go in the order you listed.

I've been using the terrific AK Real Colors a lot lately. I found out the hard way that a good primer coat is absolutely essential with these paints though. I can get away with skipping primer with Tamiya acrylic paints but not with AKRC, as they will get scratched down to the bare plastic far too easily if primer isn't used first. 

ThanosForever

I've been using the terrific AK Real Colors a lot lately. I found out the hard way that a good primer coat is absolutely essential with these paints though. I can get away with skipping primer with Tamiya acrylic paints but not with AKRC, as they will get scratched down to the bare plastic far too easily if primer isn't used first. 

 

I thin AK Real with lacquer thinner makes for a tougher base coat

I mixed my AKRC's with Tamiya Lacquer thinner as the AK brand thinner isn't readily available in my area. It sprayed just fine but seemed to be kind of a gritty dry-ish (like the feel of a very fine sanding paper) after curing and was just really fragile. My fingernails barely grazed the paint coat when I picked the model up and this left some noticeable scratches behind. I used a Tamiya-brand insignia white laquer on the same model and nothing like what happened with the AKRC color occured at all. I was quite surprised by this because the Tamiya LT is typically very gentle, and it works well with other brands - I recently mixed some Mr. Hobby H54 Navy Blue with it for a different model and it worked perfectly.

I have not painted with AK paints yet. . . mostly either Tamiya or Vallejo acrylics but I just picked some AK so it may be soon.

I use mostly MRP lacquers, which are almost all semi-gloss paints, and they also eliminate the need for a clearcoat before decals.  Decals settle down really nicely on those.  One step you might consider adding in your finishing process is a clearcoat after the decals go on, prior to your weathering and washes.  That will protect your decals from possibly getting damaged or removed in the wash/weathering process, and also give everything (including the decals) the same level of porosity to control the level of staining you accomplish with your washes.  The glossier (less porous) the clearcoat, the less staining you'll have.  Sometimes you want a higher level of staining, so you can go with a flatter (more porous) clear coat.

KeithRob

Do I have this corret???

1. Primer

2. Base coat

3. Lacquer clear coat  (or is there something else?) 

4. Decals

5. Weathering, streaks smudges, etc

6. Clear flat coat 

 

 

1. Depending on the type and brand of paints you use, primer may or may not be necessary. With enamels and lacquers, primer is usually are not needed as those types of paints are "hotter" and usually adhere to bare styrene quite well. If painting a multi media surface such as resin and metal in addition to styrene, a good primer is needed, even with enamels or lacquers.

2. base colors, obviously a critical part

3. Clear glosscoat. Depending upon what type of washes you may use, dissimilar types are needed. If youre usng an enamel or oil wash, an acrylic or lacquer clear coat should not be dissolved by the thinners used with enamel & oil washes

4. Decals, another critical part and best sealed in with another gloss clear coat as mentioned above... this also helps reduce any "step" around the decals, particularly thicker ones.

5. Weathering, some such as washes, are best done before a flat top coat, while others, such as pigments are best done after a final flat coat.

6. Clear flat coat- no explanation really needed

7. Final Weathering- Pigments are best applied at this point as the flat coat tend to overrride them and make them barely visible. Plus the flat coat gives them more "tooth" to grab on to as opposed to a gloss coat. 

Hey Thanos, I've had the same problem. I like the way AK sprays and brushes, but I've found it to be a little "delicate." I've thinned with box store lacquer thinner (like Tojo) and AK's proprietary thinner, I've sprayed it over bare plastic and various primers. Still. Same issue. I'm not trying to discourage KeithRob from using AK, they're nice paints. I'm just glad that my issue isn't only my issue.

Try AK with Gunze Mr Leveling Thinner for some real sweet performance of the paint. I've gotten my best results from that paint with that thinner.

sorry, double post incident 

oortiz10

Hey Thanos, I've had the same problem. I like the way AK sprays and brushes, but I've found it to be a "delicate." I've thinned with box store lacquer thinner (like Tojo) and AK's proprietary thinner, I've sprayed it over bare plastic and various primers. Still. Same issue. I'm not trying to discourage KeithRob from using AK, they're nice paints. I'm just glad that my issue isn't only my issue. 

I've been making a better effort lately to wipe down the model with rubbing alcohol before painting. It's helped a lot, in the good ol' way all the tried & tested old wisdom about pre-painting prep work always turns out to be true.