Welcome to the club! I use as little of it as possible and only when necessary.

Hang in there.

Stay safe.

Jim  

Hello!

I think I can understand your sentiment, and I believe I know why... But I sure am glad I can use CA when necessary, because sometimes it would be hard to replace in some applications... Then, in other applications I gladly replace it. Like when I have a flat piece of PE to be glued on styrene, like a badge or a panel - then I take some good white glue and it does a better job - I have the option to position the part exactly and clean up the excess glue if any. But when I have to glue some PE on its edge - then CA is hard to beat. Like recently I was going this:

All those brackets and footman loops would be hard to do with something else than CA...

Have a nice day

Paweł

Yeah, I know what you mean Jim. I have gotten to using Gator Grip which is sorta a white glue for most PE and resin parts. Unfortunatly they shut down production. I've bought some other stuff but not used it that much so far. 

That and two-part epoxy. It's much stronger than CA glue and to me at least it's way more predictable. If I need a strong joint with PE or resin I use that. 

I mostly use CA just for seam filling.  There's nothing better for that purpose, since it knocks out seams in one application about 95% of the time.  No putty, sand, repeat dance with it. Other than that, about the only other thing I use it for is attaching edge-mounted PE like Pawel and Gamera.  It is also about the best thing out there for edge-mounted 3D decals.  Another product that works extremely well for edge-mounted stuff, provided you can get it to stand on its own for a second or two, is Bondic UV curing glue. 

I also use a lot of two-part epoxy like Gamera.  I use that mostly for attaching canopies or large clear parts.  Its also about the best thing to use for permanently attaching flat 3D decals in most situations where you have a good amount of surface area and where the decal is getting placed is obvious, without a lot of adjustment needed.  For PE, layered PE, and on on smaller 3D decals in situations where exact placement is difficult, I use what's left of my Pledge Floor Care (any other acrylic clearcoat should work just as well).  The worst thing excess acrylic clearcoat (or PFC) around your part will do is to give those areas a glossy appearance.  Once you put on your final clearcoat, that excess will be completely invisible.  Its also great stuff for attaching small, clear parts like sensor windows and HUD glass.  Even the best white glues that market themselves as "transparent" don't look transparent at all when you compare them and PFC side-by-side.  You'll see the difference...its like night and day.

The 3D decal cables on the floor of this F-35A were attached using PFC, and I wasn't sure exactly where to put the stuff, so I pretty much just slopped it onto that whole section of the floor.  Can't see any of the PFC at all after the clearcoat went on.  The 3D decals for the side panels all went on with two-part epoxy.

I agree with you,the stuff from the hobby shop never worked right,it was better gluing pieces to fingers then plastic,and went bad fast.Then someone recommended this stuff,it really works,top doesnt clog,I use the whole bottle up without going bad.

Less is better,I apply a small amount where needed with a tooth pick.As others said,there are some places where CA is necessary,you'll be happy with this.

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Yup.  Gorilla Super Glue is the best thing out there right now for CA, hands down.  Everything else is a waste of money, IMHO.

I hate using CA. Sometimes it sticks instantly, like on your fingers. Other times it refuses to stick at all, except on your fingers. I finally made the switch to a gel type CA and it does make a world of difference. It has instant holding power yet remains pliable to give you time to set the part just right. It works so much better than the liquid CA.

As far as using white glue, is that a permanent fix? I thought white glue was for porous surfaces. I have used it on canopies to temporarily hold it on for painting purposes, but always CA it in place for a permanent attachment.

Gamera

Yeah, I know what you mean Jim. I have gotten to using Gator Grip which is sorta a white glue for most PE and resin parts. Unfortunatly they shut down production. I've bought some other stuff but not used it that much so far. 

That and two-part epoxy. It's much stronger than CA glue and to me at least it's way more predictable. If I need a strong joint with PE or resin I use that. 

 

I think Gator Grip is back, I bought a couple bottles last year after reading it was available again...unless it has shuttered for a 2nd time since.

The stuff is great, I use it all the time now for PE, and everything is still in place so far.

Eaglecash867

Yup.  Gorilla Super Glue is the best thing out there right now for CA, hands down.  Everything else is a waste of money, IMHO.

 

I use Gorilla as my thin ca.  However I like Locktite for gel.  I 0nly use solvent glue for long seams like fuselage or wing halves where I need slow dry to get clamps in place.  I let it set for at least five hours.  The slow drying time is why I like CA for most joints.

Glamdring

 

 

Gamera

Yeah, I know what you mean Jim. I have gotten to using Gator Grip which is sorta a white glue for most PE and resin parts. Unfortunatly they shut down production. I've bought some other stuff but not used it that much so far. 

That and two-part epoxy. It's much stronger than CA glue and to me at least it's way more predictable. If I need a strong joint with PE or resin I use that. 

 

 

 

 

 

I think Gator Grip is back, I bought a couple bottles last year after reading it was available again...unless it has shuttered for a 2nd time since.

The stuff is great, I use it all the time now for PE, and everything is still in place so far.

 

Thanks Robert! 

I've still got almost an entire bottle but I'll go looking when I run out! 

I also dislike the stuff, but, on my latest build, the HMS Beagle by Occre, the instructions on the kit have you use CA glue almost everywhere, and this is a wood model! While building this model I have gone thru at least 6 bottles of the stuff, I usually buy the Gorilla brand.

The model is almost done, I should be able to post some photos in a couple of days or so.

Joe

Jim, I love CA, it's very easy to work with -- seriously, that's the whole truth and nothing but the truth!  Could be the glue you are using.. but probably technique/experience.  

I mainly use Zap Medium and Thick CA, but also use Bob Smith Industries.

I never apply straight from the bottle. 

Never use more glue than you need.

I have a dedicated 1 x 1.5 inch block of wood, with a piece of dollar store double stick tape stuck to top, to which I stick a small piece of wax paper (usually pealed off of dollar-store band-aids). I put a drop or two of super glue on the wax paper (wax paper keeps the glue from curing) and apply small amounts with Stretched spure, or toothpicks when I need to be less careful or need a larger amount of glue.

I also have cotton swabs handy to quickly wipe away excess glue if I get too much in a particular area I am gluing (always throw away the swab as soon as you use it and use a new one the next time).

There are lots of tricks you can do with accelerator as well. 

Always sand super glue as soon as possible as it gets harder as the minutes go by...

hope that helps 

I don't know if its been discussed but Gorilla glue is toxic to animals. Specifically dogs. I referring to the basic glue not sure about its super glue. Apparently the glue has a swet taste to dogs and are attracted by it. Thing is some of the properties of it causes it to expand. If a dog getts ahold of it it will eat it and while in its stomach it will expand.

https://www.petpoisonhelpline.com/poison/gorilla-glue/

JimC2020;

      Hi, I gotta tell you. I have used a lot of different brands of the stuff. Now, I only use The original "Super Glue" brand and Bob Smith industries C.A.. NEVER, out of the bottle and never more than I need. I DO NOT use it for filler either! One thing I learned early on is this.The stuff has no resistance to Offset or Irregular side pressure. It will fail everytime!

      For straight on(Putting an item in place that will not move ,it's great) For Wood it's great, Paper too! But on sheet or molded parts it is okay unless the joint is going to be under ANY diagonal pressure. I have also tried " Gorilla " Brand and as far as I am concerned they can keep it.

       One of the things about "Gorilla" brand is this ("Moisten the joint) (Non C.A.) and or other conditions. I want my wood joints as normal as possible, given Humidity and Temperature at the bench. I have successfully used it on a wooden model I created from scratch of the Wheeler Cruiser of Aurora Fame. After twelve years off and on display, Nuthin has broken off so far!

       As far as plastic is concerned I only use it as mentioned, or as a backstop to an already joined piece(Hull Halves) after the plastic glue joint has dried!

This discussion is about CA and had nothing to do with Gorilla wood glue.  The Gorilla glue that was mentioned earlier in the thread is the Gorilla Super Glue with the light blue cap...Tojo even showed a picture of the bottle.  All CA is going to be toxic to dogs, and other animals, including humans...don't feed it to your dog.  

I don't know how many times I ended up with PE parts glued to my fingers and not the kit!

Jimbot58!

 See! It's okay though. It just proves you are busy Model Building. Keep some Nail Polish remover(Smells Better) or Lacquer Thinner ) handy. Works great as removal juice! 

Thin CA used with activator puts down one heck of a finish on wood turnings if you know how to do it. Easy to do, super high polished finish, done right on the lathe as clear coat.. And the medium thickness or even the gel is good for any final parts that need assembly on an ornament turned on the lathe.

For models though, rarely a fan, rarely use the stuff.

I have gone through this feeling many times, and also unfortunately stuck fingers, and I finally found the solution for the cyanoacrylate glue. The key to everything is to combine a good cyano accelerator and some glue tips to apply the glue just in the right place. For peeling off your fingers you also have solutions with cyano cleaner.

I am still a big fan of CA glue.  I have been using it for about thirty years.  I do not understand about finicky.  As far as stickiness, isn't that what you want in an adhesive?

I have started using tight thin gloves that I have for painting when I am using CA to avoid having to pull it off my finders.

One neat thing about CA glue is you can get CA debonder.  Make a mistake and you can undo it,  Can't do that with solvent glue.

You Know!

    C.A. glue isn't the problem I have decided. It's the User! No, I am not accusing anyone of being careless here. We just do things a certain way and sometimes our habits come back to bite us. This is more prevalent in the use of C.A.s than anything else. It's funny in a way, but true. When we mess up with C.A. it's ,(If you examine the facts) Specifically, our own fault. I have changed the way i use it .No problems now!

I eventually learned thst less is more.

I eventually learned that less is more.