mrg149
Hello fellow modelers!
I am still getting my feet back under me after returning to plastic modeling. I find I tend to get really excited when starting a new project and kinda go at it willy-nilly. So, I am turning to the experts to find out the following:
You've just decided to start your latest modeling project. What are the steps you take from beginning to end to create a successful modeling project?
Bullet points are welcome. Numbered lists and detailed explanations work too if you want to be verbose.
Thanks in advance!
Remember, there's no right or wrong, though there are steps that many modelers probably share. There's what works best for any given modeler.
You've got the first step covered-get excited about the build. That includes seeing the kit online or in a store, thinking about buying the kit, buying the kit, looking at the box art, the instructions, maybe reading about the subject, thinking about it. All of that before detaching any parts, applying paint, applying glue.
Once I've actually decided to start a build, I like to clean the sprues with warm water and a de-greasing agent. Not really necessary as it was years ago, when many sprues had mold release agents on them. Those could reduce the chance that your paints would adhere as well as they could. Dishwashing liquid with "grease-fighting" ingredients are good. I use SuperClean, an automotive de-greaser, because I have it for other uses. Just a couple drops in a dish of warm water. Not everyone does this anymore; like I said, it's not really necessary. But I use the time to examine the sprues, too. I set these aside to dry.
I read the instructions, even if I might not follow the same sequence. But there's usually some history of the subject, often a parts or sprue diagram, then the steps, and info on colors and markings, whether the subject is historical, military, civilian, fantasy, whatever. I look for areas that might be challenging, options for different parts, etc.
I decide where I want to start, I generally will start with anything that is an interior-cockpits on airplanes, vehicle interiors on cars or armored fighting vehicles. If it's a figure, I'll look to see what might be difficult to assemble and paint if I close it up first.
I also look for fit and potential issues, like seams or gaps, to anticipate them and deal with them during assembly and painting.
I typically prime, because a primer can promote finish color adhesion, and it can show flaws in surfaces. Though sometimes it can be easier to prime some things later. It depends on the kit. But generally, things that will be inside the model, I prime before installing them. And painting them before installing, too, if I won't be able to get to them as the model assembles and gets closed up. Seats, equipment on a figure, etc.
I'll clean up seam lines/mold lines as I go, again, especially if it will be visible but impossible to get at once the piece is installed.
As I assemble the model, I test for fit and seams. As the model comes together, I'll deal with seams, gaps, surface flaws, etc, as I go, again, thinking about what I won't be able to reach once parts are assembled or installed. Whether it's a seam one a fuselage, a car body, a shoulder on a figure, I deal with these while I can reach them.
As far as some seams go, I like to use the extrusion technique. On a styrene kit, like an airplane fuselage, or upper and lower wings; or a figure (eg, Tamiya 1/35 figures) where limbs attach, I'll flow thin liquid styrene into the join and apply pressure. The melted plastic will extrude and leave bead. When this cures, it's easy enough to remove that bead, leaving little or no seam to be filled. I like this technique, because it's all the same material, the kit styrene. Otherwise, I'll use thinned putty, a liquid surfacing compound, stretched kit sprue and liquid cement, even 2-part epoxy putty, all depending on the kit.
I'll prime as assembly progresses, if I didn't before. Usually at this point, it's the general exterior of the subject, because I did the interior earlier. At this stage, priming helps show any other flaws that should be addressed, like seams I missed before, sink marks, fine scratches, etc.
Once I'm happy with the surface and the assembly, and have primed, I apply my color coats. On planes, cars, armor, ships, etc, this is usually with the airbrush or rattle cans. On a figure, it's usually with a paint brush. Masking where necessary. I've learned through experience to paint the smaller areas of color, like the theater markings (eg, stripes), D-day invasion stripes, etc before applying the finish coats. For example, on a P-51B flying out of England in 1944, there are white stripes front to back on the upper and lower wings, on the vertical stabilizer, and the horizontal stabilizers. It's easier to lay down the white, then mask the stripes, and then paint the olive drab upper surfaces and gray undersides. Believe me, I learned the hard way.
If the subject is a figure, then I paint the way Shep Paine taught us-paint from the inside out, as if I am dressing the figure. It's really the principle of working from the inside out is on a vehicle.
Once I've got my color coats down, I'll apply decals as necessary. I like to apply a gloss coat, to create a smooth surface and reduce the chance of trapping air in tiny pits in the surface, under the decal. That trapped air causes what we call silvering-you can see the clear carrier film. Trimming the carrier film as much as possible also helps reduce the chances of this. I prefer to do this, though there are modelers who don't.
I'll weather the model at this point, if necessary. I might apply a sealer coat to protect the decals, but I don't always. And it depends on the subject, if it gets weathering or not. And some subjects should look matte when your finished, some glossy (eg, a curbside model of an auto), some semi-gloss or satin. It depends on things like the effect you want, whether you're going for a realistic effect, or an artistic effect and what you like. I check references as I feel necessary, throughout the build, really.
As far as a matte finish goes, I use Testor's DullCote in rattlecans. Some use products that are airbrushed. For gloss surfaces, I use an acrylic floor covering, formerly known as Future, and now out of production. Others don't like it. I like that it's water-soluable, can be airbrushed, is self-leveling, dries and cures nice and hard, and can be cleaned up as necessary with a weak ammonia solution (eg, a glass cleaner containing ammonia, like Windex). But this is my preference. Like I said, some use it, others don't. There is no right or wrong, there is only what works best for you.
That's a sort of mid-altitude description of what I do, generally. I've probably left out things that I do as the situation arises. And it sounds like more than it turns out to be when I'm actually building.
But I hope that helps!
I'm sure you'll get a lot of other responses, but they'll all fall along some common themes.
Best regards,
Brad