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MJY65 I'd say your chances of using 30 year old decals succesfully weren't great even if they were intact. Buy some aftermarket and move on.
I'd say your chances of using 30 year old decals succesfully weren't great even if they were intact. Buy some aftermarket and move on.
"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."
JPCARE Hi Rob. I saved a couple pictures online of the decals for this model if the original decals are bad. I couldn't find any laser printer decal paper at the hobby shop yesterday when I was shopping for paint, so I'll have to buy some through amazon.
Hi Rob. I saved a couple pictures online of the decals for this model if the original decals are bad. I couldn't find any laser printer decal paper at the hobby shop yesterday when I was shopping for paint, so I'll have to buy some through amazon.
The problem with laser printers is that they do not print white. Except for the now hard to find and expensive Alps printers.
So, if your decals are all black, red, blue etc. then there ian't a problem, but if there is white, you either need to start with a white decal sheet (the transfer is actually white) or you're out of luck with that decal makring.
Then there is the trimming if you use white decal sheet because if you don't trim it closely, all the edges will be white.
Yes, amazon does carry several brands.
Hello Rob. I went online & found pictures of the decals for this model in case the decals were bad. I went to my local hobby shop this afternoon & they're out of decal transfer sheets when I was buying more paint for this model.
Thanks
You can try to request a new decal sheet from Revell, although, since they are now a German company, the decals won't include the tail fin markings that denote a particular WW2 party.
https://carrera-revell-toys.com/revell/replacement-parts-request
if you have an inkjet printer, it is possible to print out the decals you found online. You will probably have to resize the image to make dpi approprete for the dcal size.
BTW, there is a decals forum below in the TOOLS, TECHNIQUES AND REFERENCES SECION of the foums.
That's good to hear. If you need replacements, I happen to have a sheet of decals from Super Scale International for 7./KG 51 and 3./LG 1 that might serve (that's for the BOB 1940 and North Africa 1943). No instruments or placards though. Let me know and I'll send them along.
Gary
Hello Greg. I managed to separate the decals albeit half of them are on the decal sheet while the others are on the box lid, but I can still complete the model. I'll just need to go through the paint I have & buy more if I need to.
Hello Greg. I managed to separate the decals from the box lid. I forgot that it doesn't take much time for decals to come off the decal paper. I now have a set of decals that I can use & decals still attached to the box lid, but I can complete the model which is the main thing & go through my paints in case I haven't got the right colors etc.
Hello Greg. I managed to separate the decals from the box lid using water & saved about half of the decals that are still attached to the decal sheet, when the other half of the decals are attached to the box lid upside down.
I didn't bother to dab the excess water off the decals as I didn't want to ruin anymore. I also noticed I can finish this model with one set of markings as described in the instructions.
GAF If the paint has not covered the decals and ruined them, could you not just cut the box up and then soak them in water to loosen them?
If the paint has not covered the decals and ruined them, could you not just cut the box up and then soak them in water to loosen them?
Along the lines of Gary's suggestion -- you might try saturating the box lid's cardboard at the location where the decals are stuck. Unless there's paint adhering as well (I couldn't quite tell from your description) soaking the cardboard itself might do the trick.
Greg
George Lewis:
Hello Gary. Thanks for the tip. I'll see if I can free the decals from inside the lid. I did save a picture of the decals when I was browsing online, as I know transfer sheets are available these days.
If the paint has not covered the decals and ruined them, could you not just cut the box up and then soak them in water to loosen them? Sorry if I misunderstood.
Hello Pawel. I did go online & found decals to go with the aircraft as I know there is decal transfer paper. I do have a shoebox to put the model into as the original box is rough around the edges.
Hello!
Sorry to say that, but your description sounds like some serious mess... I would recomment putting everything in a new box (a nice shoebox might be good for that). As for the decals - luckily He-111 is a popular aircraft, I'd recommend buying some aftermarket decals here, because chances of saving the kit decals are not very good IMO. Good luck with your build and have a nice day
Paweł
All comments and critique welcomed. Thanks for your honest opinions!
www.vietnam.net.pl
I bought a 1994 Monogram 1:48 scale Heinkel 111 this afternoon & noticed the previous builder had painted the fuselage & wings. They were using the box as a painting surface, but they didn't let the paint dry & I noticed the decals are stuck to the inside of the box lid because of the paint drying. Is there a way I can remove the decals without ruining them? I have rubbing alcohol & thinner at my disposal. The decals are not completely stuck to the lid as its like a flap of skin, & its really not time to pull of the bandaid. A few pieces of the fuselage & wings have bits of paper on them from the instructions but I thought soap & water would clean it up. I think I can use Vallejo acrylic colors to finish this model. I took photos of everything but I can't seem to get my phone working with the site, as I know pictures are helpful to everyone.
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