Picking up modelling after more than 20 years. Where to start?

OK. I finally started working on the FW-190D-9. Now I know what's really different from 20 years ago: my eye sight. Or is 1/72 really too small?

Tried to paint the instruments panel thinking it will look better than the supplied decal. Note to self: Next time, use the decal.

Anyway, I feel much better once I got past the anxiety and actually put my hands on it.

Have to run to the shop this weekend for I am missing a few colors. And it's time to start stocking my kits. I want to focus on WWII twin engine planes. Any suggestion?

ewc2003,

Wow. That toolbox is just what I need. Thanks a lot.

elfkin,

Thanks for the suggestion on paint booth. I will look them up. For now I will start with hand painting 1/72 single engine aircraft to "get the feeling" back.

I attended a local club meeting and got tons of suggestion and encouragement. A visit to the local Hobby Town USA got me some basics like brushes, paint, and glue. Unfortunately, I got over my head and picked a Tamiya FW-190D-9 as my first kit. Man the paint job will definitely kill me...

To touch on what elfkin said...One thing to remember about airbrushing (basement, garage, wherever) is to protect yourself. I use surgical masks that work just fine. Also as far as tools, paints, etc... most everyone here has the same basic idea.

I got back into modelling last month after a 15 year hiatus. One thing is definite: The Internet and forums like this are full of information. I use this as a springboard, then other sites for ref photos (sure beats buying all those "..In Action" books by Squadron.

Here is a site I found that has the plans for a home-made spray booth:

http://www.interlog.com/~ask/scale/tips/booth.htm

Also, I haven't seen anyone post anything about where to keep all the goodies you need (paint, etc.). I got this tackle box at Wal-Mart for under 15 bucks, and it has plenty of room:







Again, back!

Hi stephenju,
Welcome back!!!! I too "just" restarted after a long hiatus. One of your questions still unanswered is the air brush in the basement. Yes you can but for you and your household's safety make sure there is plenty of proper ventilation, ie. a spraybooth. Even the paints labeled "non-toxic", not too mention proprietary (brand names like Tamiya, etc) or generic thinners (Iso alchohol/water mix) are pretty noxious when reduced to aerosols. There are many companies offering ready made spraybooths, and a search of the forums will display one's you can make yourself. Hope this helps.

Again. Thanks for all the great tips and warm welcome. Really appreciated.

I find the new 1/72 aircraft models are really amazing. Bought a Dragon Ta-152H-1 and I am still stunned. The detail level is more than what 1/48 used to be. And I also checked out some kit reviews on new (to me) Tamiya and Hasegawa kit and they all look so great. So I decided to go for 1/72 ones first. That also make displaying them a lot easy.

By the way, any body knows any good 1/72 B-26 Marauder kit? That's one aircraft I always wanted to build.

A pair of toe nail clippers works wonders for cutting things apart. Use a pair with a straight cutting surface, not the curved. If and when you get around to using photo etched parts, they will trim the little nubs that hold the parts to the tree closely and easily.

FSM has a number of "How To......." books.......
all of which include needed supplies and stuff........etc....etc.....etc.
for me they were the most basic of tools....and it all just grew from there........of course along with all the experienced insight from this awesome community.........

.....Scott.......great acrylic review !!!!!!!!!!!

and Stephen...??????? to the madhouse.....lol

QUOTE: Enamel vs. acrylics is what I mean by the paint systems. Sounds like acrylics suits me better for my condition. But how does it stay on the model if it can be washed with water?

It's only water soluble until it dries. Once dry it's like having a thin coat of plastic on the surface. The drawback to acrylics are that

1) They don't adhere as strongly as enamels or laquers. Strong masking tape can pull acrylic up if it isn't thoroughly cured. Using a base coat of enamel primer will help. I usually use Tamiya rattle-can primer and can spray it outside.

2) They dry ridiculously fast. That sounds like a good thing but when airbrushing it usually isn't. Acrylics dry so fast that they can actually partially dry between the airbrush and the surface of the model. Thin paint, low pressure, and close to the surface are the keys to spraying acrylics. They also frequently cause "Dry Tip" on the airbrush, a buildup of paint on the airbrush tip that has to be cleaned off frequently.

They have their own problems to deal with, but I still prefer them to enamels or laquers.

I haven't bought one model yet, that has included the glue (all of 2 years).

just remember that the only dumb question is the one you don't ask!!

Guys. Thank you all so much. I am glad I finally asked the questions. All the warm welcome and great advices really make me feel a lot easier. I now have a better idea on how to start.

I began modelling when I was in 6th grade back in Taiwan. So there'll be some confusion on my part due to the language difference. Bear with me when I totally lose myself trying to describe the question. Especially the dumb ones.

Enamel vs. acrylics is what I mean by the paint systems. Sounds like acrylics suits me better for my condition. But how does it stay on the model if it can be washed with water?

Badger. Ah, that familiar name. I use to have a set of double-action Badger back in high school years. And it's the envy in the club. Maybe I will start from the old friends. Hey. It's slowly coming back to me. Nice.

I didn't know there are different modelling glues. Used to think the Tamiya square bottle was the only thing. That is, other than the small tube that comes with the model. Do they still do that?

Radio Shack is a great tip. Will do that on my way back from work tomorrow.

I find Squadron has almost everything mention here. though the web site is very difficult to navigate. Is there any other good source? Guess I still have to pay a visit to the local hobby shop this weekend anyway.

Just find out I am ranked as "Snap-together" here. How fitting. For I just snapped together these two little babies:

http://www.hlj.com/scripts/hljpage.cgi?BAN925536
http://www.hlj.com/scripts/hljpage.cgi?BAN925538

Yeah, I like the "bad" guys better.

Welcome back, Stephen! As you've already seen the hobby has changed a great deal (for the better, too!) You're in the right place to keep your finger on its pulse,too.

I can't add anything to the lists of tools above, but I would suggest you ease back in slowly. Kits have evolved a great deal over the last 20 years (and the prices have risen accordingly ) You'll see some great examples of work here in the forum and in the pages of FSM, and you may be discouraged at first (I know I was until I learned to draw inspiration from those pictures instead of depression) The hobby is better than it ever was, and I think most everyone on the forum will agree - there's no better time to be a modeler.
Good luck,
Paul

The one item I haven't seen mentioned is sanding sticks. You can get them in different grades from very fine ot very course. Get several of each grade.

Lots of good information up there.

Many things have changed over the years. I started about 40 years ago, then quit and then started and then quit, etc, etc, etc. Kits are much better; the fit is better, the detail is better, and the decals are better.

Glues have changed a lot. Tenax 7R and Ambroid are "Welders" that will pull right down a seam and weld it together by slightly melting the plastic. Unlike the glues of old that did the same thing, these are dry in about a minute. For areas without seams cyanoacrylate glues like Zap are great.

Paints have also changed a lot. Whereas we used to use enamel or nothing, acrylics are really catching on these days. No bad fumes, thin with water or alcohol, clean up with water. I've gotten to where I just don't like to use anything but acrylics because they are just so much easier to clean up and don't smell up the whole house when I airbrush.

For airbrushing you'll need an airbrush and an air source. Badger (my preference), Iwata, or Paasche are probably your best choices. An air source can be a compressor or tank as a preference. The cans of air such as Propel get very expensive very quick and are virtually worthless for painting because they get cold instantly and lose their pressure.

As was mentioned, when you decide what questions to ask, feel free to jump in. There are tons of highly experienced modelers around here that will be more than happy to help with any question you might have.

Stephen, welcome and welcome back to the hobby.

The others have pretty well summed things up, but let me add that Radio Shack or other electronic suppliers are a good source for some of these tools without paying the 'modeling premium'. The side cutters, tweezers, and X-acto knives can all be had for usually less money; also things like little heat sinks, useful for gripping small parts.

Ask your dentist for worn out tools used for scraping teeth; these are good for poking and prodding in small spaces.

FSM magazine is a great reference; subscribe or pick it up at the hobby shop or news rack.

For kits? There are as many opinions as there are kits and model builders. Over the last 20 years you must have dreamed about certain aircraft; start with those types.

Enjoy!
Bruce

sounds like some great advice. my current supply includes glue, filler, tape, a knife, wire cutters (used as sprue cutters), toothpicks, and cotton swabs. although i have a great deal more but this is the most basic stuff i use.

joe

Stephen,

You have all the gurus available in the modeling field. Call on tham and they will be there for all the help you could ever need.

And by the way, welcome to the forum.

Richard

my small case of tools includes, exacto knife, sprue cutters, electricians needle nose pliers, self closing tweezers, regular tweezers, dental pick, and a pin vise. the rest are odds and ends I've assorted from around the house, needles, etc.


45 minutes is what i consider my LHS. easy to get since we go to that area a couple times a week.

hey well as far as tools go a sharp exacto knife or something like it, tweezers, wire cutters, Xuron brand is really good but a little pricy. fingernail files and/or sandpaper, model glues. Liquid cement is pretty good, its not stringy like the normal tube model glue, super glue and Elmers white glue for clear parts. You would want putty, any putty is good. I don't really know much about air brushes or compressors. im not sure what you mean by paint system. But Testors, Model Master Polly Scale and Tamiya are all good paints. For enamel paints don't forget paint thinner. and Masking tape. Plus brushes. That should cover most of it. and as far as paint effecting different brushes, um i have a variety of brushes and there really isn't much difference between them all.