Tube glue, testors cement

Hey Dwight...How do you like the Tamiya thin? Is it really quick drying? Im asking because I picked up a jar a Looooong while back for $1.00....Never even been opened just kinda sitting there in the tool box...
Chris

Like Lee Tee haven't used tube glue for about 20 or more years. I now only use liqiud base cements for plastics or super glue for resin or brass.

I bought Testors liquid cement 3502, and it stinks..... I use CA glue and occasionally tube glue..........


I guess this is somewhat like airbrushes, you use what your used to using!?

I don't use tube glue and Testors liquid works better as a brush cleaner than a glue. Ambroid or Tenax applied with a Touch-n-Flow or a drafting pen is what I mostly use nowdays.

I use Tamiya & Testor's liquid cement. I also use Zap-A-Gap on the harder to join parts.

I haven't used tbe glue since I started using the liquid form.

I am using Tenax 7R exclusively for my corvette frame, and I'll be using CA for the plating, because I don't want the Tenax to bleed through the thinner plastic.
I have used LeeTree's method to make simulated welded seams, that seems to work the best.

For wooden models I use carpenter's glue, CA, epoxy, or Ambroid depending on the application.

No tube glue here, I agree with the others' negative comments.
Nruce

I have a piece of flat hard plastic about 3"X3" I cut a piece of 2" masking tape to apply to the piece of plastic. I use this as a blotter. I also use toothpicks as the applicator. The toothpick can be sharpened with a knife to any size point you may need. When the glue job is complete simply peel off the masking tape and discard.

Mate, I haven't used tube glue in over 20 years.
The stuff is awful - with all the stringy bits, the "sometimes" adhesive quality...........just can't stand it.
Use any number of liquid cements on the market. Humbrol, Testors, Tamiya, Pastruct, Tenax - they all make great glues that quickly dissolve the surface contact area and actually "weld" the two bits of plastic together. Makes it much easier to fill joins and seams. I actually almost never (almost, I said) use filler - I put the two pieces together and hold them gently, apply a good amount of luquid glue (not enough to cause runs) and wait 20 seconds or so, then apply pressure. The melted plastic of the mating surface actually "oozes" out of the seam, effectively filling the depression or indentation of the seam. I end up using much less filler this way. Plus, the filler is now made of the same material as the rest of the piece. No more paint reacting with the filler, as sometimes happens with automotive type acrylics.
Or, use superglue as an adhesive. As an adhesive, it has fantastic tensile strength, but poor shear strength.
Cheers,
LeeTree

Ambroid Pro Weld applied with needle tip Touch-n-Flow applicator.
Tube glue with a needle only if the part needs to be moved into place and I need time to attach it.

I only use CA for building. If something clear needs to be glued, I use gloss paint. Personally, I can't stand the tube stuff. Haven't used it since I was 10.

demono69

I use superglue to join the structural parts of the model where joints are usually not so visible. I apply it with a pin or needle.

I use Tamiya Thin Cement for very tight joints that are very visible. It has a very thin bristled applicator so application is clean and easy.

I use elmer's clue for clear parts applied with a very thin brush.

Only super glue for me. Why mess with something that's been working fine for years?

I used to use only testors tubes till i tries the super glue route. Now the testors is at the bottom of my box since I now don;t have fight the spider webs and the models come out looking a whole lot cleaner. Not only that but the time saved on holding parts together makes it all that much better.

I still use testors tubes. With the plastic tips of course. I use liquid also and clear/ canopy maker glue. (testors also) I think I'll try super glue to.

I use the testors liquid in a black plast bottle, tenexR7, microweld and cyanacrylics. Along with some epoxy's.

The tube stuff is so cliche', ick! Try the microweld, 2 seconds plastic is physically joined together and with cleaner joints.

The non-toxic stuff stinks, no good. Yuck!

For thin glue, take a sewing needle, cut off just the end of the bit that the cotton goes through. Dip it into the glue and the glue will sit in the recess until applied to the model. This may sound like an advert, but i haven't used tube glue for years, since I started using revell Contacta. it's thin, flows nicely, and the tube applicator means you can get to apply it in small amount's, just where you want it. Also guys, try superglue ( not near clear parts) and Elmers (on clear parts) they both have their places on the model desk. Elmers can also make a good filler for seams/joints that are difficult to fill because of their location.

if you use the Testors Non-Toxix cement, you won't get those spider webs.

I use the Testors liquid cement in the 1oz (29,5 mL) bottle (No. 3507). If you trim off the very tip of the stem you get a hole about 1mm and it works great.

don't use tube glue, can't stand the stuff, gets spider webs every where and ruins a model quiker than anything else

Agree with Snacko on this one. Toothpicks, pins, just about anything to stop directly trying to apply the glue to the model. A little wasted glue on a blotter is a small price to pay for a clean model build.

Heavy use of toothpicks.

- Snacko