Display cases

Welcome Carter.

My favorite subject are 1:48 planes too, recently I made a display case using a photo frame as base and five pieces of glass to form an open box to fit in the interior of the frame; e.g. for a 10"x10"x5" display you need one piece 10"x10" for the top and four pieces 9"7/8 x 5" for the sides using 1/8" thick glass, glue the sides of the box edge vs. face using the top as a guide to align them.

In my case I use a clear glass cement that works when you expose it to the sun light (didn't remember the name); the only problem was getting the glass cut to an exact size.

(sorry for my english)

If you are talking aout individual cases for each model, go to your local home improvement store and buy a sheet of plexiglass and and a plastic cutter. take a straight edge and cut strips long enough to go around the model. Cut a large piece that will fit onto the four sides. smooth the edges up with some sand paper and glue together with super glue. That should take care of dust and wandering fingers. If you want a base, get a plaque or some wood and finish it to suit your needs.

Waynes nailed it. Because of the unusual dimensions of aircraft, its doubtful you'll find one ready made. Those that are, are rather expensive. I would "scratchbuild" what you need from plexi or acrylic and then you can make them low profile if you choose. I'm just going to make one big cabinet to put them all in. Glass shelves and some lights. Voila!

Mike

Carter,
I make a great display case - looks fantastic - here's what I do.
Get a sheet of 4 or 5 mm clear perspex, and decide how large you want the case to be.
Make a base from MDF or Craftwood - you know, that stuff that's made from wood dust and resin (not chipboard). Rebate the edges with a router to just a whisker over the thickness of the perspex.
Now for the case - measure the perspex so that the finished case is the same as the outside measurements of the base - this will mean that the inside edges of the case will just clear the rebate on the base.
Cut your perspex but leave on the protective paper coating or you'll scratch it - I use a tablesaw with a 40 tooth tungsten carbide blade - the more teeth, the smoother the cut. Make sure the blade clears the thickness of the perspex by only a millimetere or two, or you'll chip the edges of the cuts.
Once you've got the sides and the top cut, peel off the protective paper and assemble the sides, then put the top on. Use a glue that's designed for perspex -I've used a Plastruct glue - can't remember which one - and it does the same with perspex that liquid glue does to styrene - melts it a little and welds the perspex together. Normal styrene glue won't touch it. Use whatever method you need to ensure the sides are square - maybe use the base as a jig.
When all the edges are glued and hardened, I chamfer all of the glued edges of the perspex with a belt sander to 45 degrees - I go down about as far as the thickness of the sheet.
This hides the glue joint and gives an overall frosty appearance to the edges and completely hides the joint. It looks great!! I've made quite a number of them, for myself and for others, and everyone loves them.
I treat the base using the spatter paint spray packs available at paint stores - they have a base color and two lighter shades in spatter paint. There are several different types like sandstone, granite, and some browns and greens. They're very effective and the finished bases look impressive. If you have any questions about my methods, just email me using the link and I'll tell you whatever you need to know to make a teriffic base for yourself.
Cheers,
Lee Tree

Hey Lee,

They make a blad specificaly for cutting acrlyc,lexan and perspex. It cuts fairly smooth and you don't get that loud snapping noise. I use a plywood or laminate cutting blade. Run a length of masking tape along your cut line and the chipping is negligible. Another great tool I've found for cutting this material is a rotozip. The spiral cutting blade does an even better job. Use a staight edge. But the added plus is that you can cut odd shapes for different applications. I've made a few stands that had odd shapes and the rotozip works like a charm.

With any cutting of plastics and composites, wear a dustmask or respirator! Same if you are cutting mdf.

Mike

Thanks, Mike.
I'll have a look for the rotozip.
LeeTree

Hey Lee,

You wouldn't be able to post a pic of one of those cases, would ya? I think I've got your directions but it would be nice to see a finished specimen. I've got a couple of monster trucks that just don't fit in the standard plastic cases.

Ray

I just got home and saw the responses to my problem. I want to thank all of you for your replies. I think that I will enjoy browsing this forum.

It looks like I won't be getting off lazy in this area of model building. Oh well, I tried. I guess next cloudy day I'll have to take a trip down to the hardware store and find some materials.

Thanks again for all of your help.

Carter

Carter -
That's what we're here for, man.
Don't be shy. If you don't ask for it, you won't get it. Capice?
Cheers,
LeeTree