GREEN OR WHITE?

Yann Solo wrote:

So if I understand this correctly, you have to pour some semi-liquid glue at the junction of the two parts so it protrudes a little bit. And once it is dry, sand it with a really fine sanding paper?

Well, I would favor the word "apply" over "pour", but otherwise, yes.  The gap-filling CA glues are thick enough to be applied with a tooth pick, or at least through an applicator tip. For large gaps, apply two or more coats.  The regular CA is so thin that 1) it won't fill anything, and 2) when direclty applied it will spread uncontrollably and make quite a mess.  Also I recommend using an accelerator, which is usually right next to the glue on store shelves.

Be sure to wet sand.  Otherwise you'll get gouges in the surface that will show through the paint.  Please refer to the Techniques Forum: there's a good discussion there just now on wet sanding.

BTW, though I have used gap-filling CA, and many people swear by it, I still prefer Acryl Blue glazing putty.

Good luck, and enjoy!

Regards,
Bruce

So if I understand this correctly, you have to pour some semi-liquid glue at the junction of the two parts so it protrudes a little bit. And once it is dry, sand it with a really fine sanding paper?

Yann Solo wrote:

Sorry, it may sound a little stupid but I just restarted making models and I wonder what is that "CA"?

Not a stupid question, but the answer is Cyanoacrylate, also known as superglue, crazy glue, etc.  It's available in different viscocities and drying speeds.  Gap-filling CA is popular as a filler.  Any hardware store, crafts store or hobby shop should carry it.

Regards,
Bruce

upnorth wrote:

After that I use the CA to touch up any little holes that remain.

Sorry, it may sound a little stupid but I just restarted making models and I wonder what is that "CA"?

 

I gave up on Squadron putty long ago.  It tended to dry and crumble as I applied it.

I use a product from 3M called Acryl Blue Glazing Putty.  It's hot so it must be applied carefully, but it spreads very smoothly and is more workable than the Squadron.  Applied with dental tools or a pallette knive, within half an hour it dries and can be sanded and polished to a high shine.  It takes Mr. Surfacer and paints well.  It's available at auto paint shops.  The downside is it comes in a large 21oz tube for about $20.  I've had the same tube for about 3 years, but the cap cracked so the stuff dries at the mouth.  I have to carve away the dried plug and add a drop or two of MEK each time I want to use it.

The same questions get asked and reasked, its just the way of the forum.

 

Anyways, I tend to use Squadron white. Pretty easy to apply, and it can be sanded to a really nice finish.

MontanaCowboy wrote:

Sorry, I think it's funny that this topic is 3 years old!   Anyway, that method above works well for me too. If there are any major bumps and dips in the plastic itself, I use White putty, sand, then light coat of CA and sand again.

true it is i found it going thru the older posts  and brought it back from the dead, anyway......

 this subject has come up twice in the last 8-9 months just goes to show we would rather ask the same questions every other week that search the older stuff to find the answer

Sorry, I think it's funny that this topic is 3 years old!

 

Anyway, that method above works well for me too.

If there are any major bumps and dips in the plastic itself, I use White putty, sand, then light coat of CA and sand again.

I haven't used filler putty in about 10 years.

I prefer to spend more time in dry fitting, find the gaps at that stage and go into my stash of scrap plastic for shimming material, usually I can find a piece of suitable thickness to stick in that will fill any potential gaps as I need it to.

After that I use the CA to touch up any little holes that remain.

I find this method takes a bit more time, but most sanding is restricted to parts mating surfaces rather than the outside surfaces of the model so I lose less detail and what I have tio rescribe is easy as I'm scribing the exact same material I'm building with.

The only time I use putty is when I use Milliput or some other epoxy putty and that's to make a detail part, not fill gaps.

When I did use putty, it usually was Squadron white. I liked it, it was easy to sand and could be brought to a nice finish. It just had so many health warnings on the tube that I decided to find other ways to get my filling done.

basically I use squadron green for the really big gaps, and white to finish it off... green is a coarser grit so fills better,  I sand it down then go for the white to give a smooth surface for paint.....  If the gap is not big I will just use the white... If it is REALLY small I use white glue (think Elmers) or CA to fill it...

Have a tube of Squadron green, but I don't used it much anymore, gone to CA as a filler

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Green has been around longer, and is pretty forgiving. It is a lacquer-based automotive type putty, and has to be built up slowly because it will attack the plastic. The white seems like a more traditional model putty, with a finer texture than the green. Also, it's easier to cover with a light colored finish. No putty is compatible with Metalizer, and most putty will need the whole model primed to be sure of covering it. I usually use the superglue/accellerator/sand like mad system for filling, since the superglue is not absorbent and the texture is the same as the plastic.

i dont see the difference. i use squadron white. use whatever you want i guess, i dont have too much experience with green.