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Making a master for casting

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  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Panama City, Florida, Hurricane Alley
Making a master for casting
Posted by berny13 on Monday, September 5, 2005 9:46 PM
This is my first try at casting a resin part. What is the best matertial to use as a master? I need to make an AN/ALQ 131 ECM Pod for my 1/32 scale F-16CJ. I plan on making several copies to use on other aircraft.

When I made an AN/ALQ 101-V3 for my F-4E I used round plastic rod and sanded it to correct shape. The AN/ALQ 131 has many different shapes so that option is out of the question.

I know this isn't much information but maybe some of you modelers that have experience casting can throw some hints in my direction.

Thanks.

Berny

 Phormer Phantom Phixer

On the bench

TF-102A Delta Dagger, 32nd FIS, 54-1370, 1/48 scale. Monogram Pro Modeler with C&H conversion.  

Revell F-4E Phantom II 33rd TFW, 58th TFS, 69-260, 1/32 scale. 

Tamiya F-4D Phantom II, 13th TFS, 66-8711, 1/32 scale.  F-4 Phantom Group Build. 

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Modeling anything with "MARINES" on the side.
Posted by AH1Wsnake on Tuesday, September 6, 2005 12:51 AM
I haven't made resin copies of it yet, but I have made a master of the Star Safire FLIR ball used on Marine hueys out of sculpey modelling clay. Mold the soft clay as close as you can to the contours of your part, but leave some extra material on there for sanding and scribing. Bake it in the oven, and the piece is now hard enough to sand down and scribe in the lines. A small pack is about 98 cents at any craft store.

 

"There are only two kinds of people that understand Marines: Marines and those who have met them in battle. Everyone else has a second-hand opinion."
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, September 6, 2005 1:04 AM
Ok, here is my opinion it really depends on the detail level and size of the part that you are after.

Personally, I prefer a selection of materials:
1.) Waterbased clay for large parts that hold little detail(figs, etc)
2.) Balsafoam sealed with resin for parts with good detail in larger scales.
3.) Super Sculpey for smaller to medium scales (pricey but works well), needs to be baked in order to harden. Fimo clay is a good alternative.
4.) 2-part epoxy putty or similar for small=teenie parts that need to hold good detail, create a rough shape and than remove as needed.

Wire-Loops/Dental tools are a good addition to your tool-chest for any type of sculpting( you can make your own too). Wink [;)]

HTH.

P.S.: Make your master about 10~12% bigger than needed and emphasize the details.
Won't really matter if you after only one pull of the mold, but casts of any master tend to be smaller and with poorer detail than the master.
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Panama City, Florida, Hurricane Alley
Posted by berny13 on Wednesday, September 7, 2005 7:31 PM
I picked up some Sculpey today. I'll have to make it in several sections though. Once one part is baked, can other items be added to it and rebaked?

Berny

 Phormer Phantom Phixer

On the bench

TF-102A Delta Dagger, 32nd FIS, 54-1370, 1/48 scale. Monogram Pro Modeler with C&H conversion.  

Revell F-4E Phantom II 33rd TFW, 58th TFS, 69-260, 1/32 scale. 

Tamiya F-4D Phantom II, 13th TFS, 66-8711, 1/32 scale.  F-4 Phantom Group Build. 

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Third rock from the sun.
Posted by Woody on Wednesday, September 7, 2005 7:57 PM
I like to make most of my masters from solid styrene.

" I wish to have no connection with any ship that does not sail fast; for I intend to go in harm's way." --John Paul Jones
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, September 8, 2005 2:18 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by berny13

I picked up some Sculpey today. I'll have to make it in several sections though. Once one part is baked, can other items be added to it and rebaked?


It think it can be, never tried it myself. I tend to use sculpey rarely due to the cost and the need to watch it like hell while baking.

I normally tend to first make a core and than overlay that with the sculpting medium, reduces the cost. Wink [;)]
  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Somewhere between near and far
Posted by emjaetee on Thursday, September 8, 2005 5:05 AM
I haven't done any recasting myself, but i stumbled on this website on how to make a mold... this might help. Smile [:)]

http://www.microer.com/molding.htm

Wink [;)]
Measure it with a micrometer. Mark it with a grease pencil. Cut it with an ax.
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