Constructing plexiglas cases...?

You can cut plexi just like metal, with a fine tooth blade in a skill or jig saw (even a hacksaw blade will work).

How thick? Depends on how big of sheet your final size will be. The bigger the more if sags and flexes.

There is epoxy glue for plexi.

My honest opinion... if you're not moving this case around from show to show, I'd use glass.
I've built many fish tanks and it's pretty darn easy and not to expensive either.
You can either get the glass (I recommend double strength, what they use in storm doors, not windows it's a little bit thicker) and cut it yourself or have it cut. It glues together with a tube of silicone that is cheap (under $3.00 US for one that fits a chaulking gun). If your interested in more details, let me know... be glad to help out.

One caveat I'll throw into the mix is when cutting plexiglass is to use a fast speed of cut. Especially with a jig saw, the abrupt change of direction at a slow speed will cause the plexiglass to chip. It can also be assembled with silicone caulk.

Besides cutting with a saw, the way we cut plexiglass at the glass shop was to score it several times with a plastic cutter.  This is basically a scriber with a handle that I am pretty sure Home Depot sells.  After scribing a few times depending on thickness, put a dowel rod of some thickness, or broom handle under the scribe line and press the plexiglass down on both sides of the dowel.  It should snap along the scribe line.  For thickness, the bigger the case, I would think the thicker the plexi.  To fasten it, you could use CA, aquarium sealer, maybe run some self taping screws in the corners, some small ones.

I make cases for my models also. I use 1/8" thickness cause I use a scoring blade that you can get at home depot and it will fit your utility knife. You could go to a glass shop and see if they will let you have some scrap material laying around so you can experiment with the thickness you want. I found thats also the cheapest place to buy plexi as u can get full sheets(4x8) in my area they go for around $100 plus or minus. Couple a yrs back FSM ran an article on how to make them but I don't remember the issue

Thanks a lot for the info guys. I was thinking using CA glue, but I don't know if it will fog, or how well it will hold. I guess I'll have to experiment. I think I'll also invest in some kind of scriber, as that seems to me to be the easiest method to cut to my desired specs.

 

Thanks!!!

When I put mine together I use Ambroid Proweld and it works just fine and no fogging

bilbirk wrote:

Couple a yrs back FSM ran an article on how to make them but I don't remember the issue

Here are a couple articles on display cases, but I don't know if any of these is the article you're thinking of.

Make your own acrylic display cases - Nov 2001
Keep dust and other dangers at bay with a homebuilt custom display case.
By Doug Geiger

Building your own display case - Dec 1990
A simple design that's easy to adapt
By Gil Hodges

Space-saving model display cases - Oct 1987
Got a lot of models you need to protect? Here are a couple of ideas
By Gifford Hamilton

i would suggest spending an extra 20 bucks and have the pro at the place you purchase it from do the cuts or if you buy it a home depot take it to a regular glass co to do it

1. it will save you time

2. it will save mess

3. it maybe cheaper than having to buy any special tools to cut it

4. in the end it maybe cheaper in the long run in case you screw it up and have to buy another pc

also you can buy thinner (aka) cheaper and use strips of the scrap from the cuts  underneath to support the center

If you are set on using plexi that's fine, but don't be affraid to try glass.

You can cut glass the same by scoring with a $2.00 glass cutter and some WD-40 as a cutting oil, place a dowel under the score line and press off to the sides on a flat surface, snap, clean cut. You can use sand paper (I use my belt sander with a wornout belt) to remove the sharp edges so you can't get cut. Then run the silicone along the edge (small 1/8" bead), gently press together, some masking tape to hold the pieces in place until the next day when the silicone is dry enough. I used to get the glass cheaper than plexi and it doesn't scratch as easily.

Yes, I worked for awhile at a glass shop years ago. Replacing auto glass, house windows, custom fish tanks for customers and myself, table tops, mirrors, green houses, etc...

But hey, it's all good... have fun.