What type of glue do you use and why?

Looking in my box at this moment, I see:
Zap a Gap CA and CA+ (because sometimes you just don't want to wait)
Nail polish remover (for when you just can't wait improperly)
Testor's Liquid Cement for long seams
Humbrol's for general purpose welding
Elmer's white glue
JB Weld 5 minute epoxy for when the CA doesn't hold
Anyone got any other good ideas?

For Dale:
I wouldn't try softening the glue because whatever does that will attack the plastic too. I suggest cutting off the whole face and then nibbing away from the back until just the mask is left.
Good luck,
Bruce

If you were to look at my modeling desk right now you would find the following:
A - Super glue (thick & thin) for resin, metal, reinforcing parts and the occassional small part that I don't want to hold in place for 15 minutes.
B - Epoxy for the same reason as A but when I need a little longer setting time for proper positioning
C - Elmers white glue &/or Krystal Clear for gluing clear parts together and attaching canopies
D - Liquid cement for the bulk of my cementing

(I started out using liquid cement in the 60s, with Pactra being my favorite (think I still have a small bottle of it squirreled away somewhere down there). When Pactra quit producing liquid cement went to IPS Weld-on 3. I sometimes tend to try to find things cheaper and lucked out. When Weld-on 3 became scarce in hobby shops found a product at a plastic supply shop in Topeka called Pleximent (or Pleximent Chloride), which turned out to be Weld-on 3s bulk source. Weld-on 3 was $3.95 for two ounces back in the late 80s, while a quart of Pleximent was $4.95. The quart is no longer avaiable but it can still be bought by the gallon (I just ordered a gallon for $26.95). A quart of that stuff would last me 1 1/2 to 2 years. Might see if any of your buddies want to go in with you to help you defray the cost.)

F - Walther's Goo for those occasional items that need to be fairly well secured to allow them to be worked on but then need to be removed for one reason or another prior to final assembly - also very good for securing figures to a base for painting.

Oh yea, I still keep a little tube glue around and even use it on occasion

Hey guys,
I need to remove a mask from a vintage Aurora Phantom model. The model came in the mail today and the mask is glued to his face. I need to get the mask off so that one other vintage Phantom kit can be restored to 100%. The model has no paint on it.
Thanks
Dale
http://community.webshots.com/user/dales_model_art

Mostly Revell Contacta. It's not too smelly, fairly fast, has the metal tube for getting into tight spots, and the tube comes in handy when the glue runs out.
Also superglue, Elmers white and Humbrol clearfix for clear plastic.
Pete

For most modeling I'm currently using Testors liquid, only because that seems to be all I can get, I prefer Humbrols liquid. It's not as runny.
For clear I use Pacers formula 560 canopy glue.
For parts that I may want to remove later like weapons loads, and landing gear doors in the closed posotion I use any white craft glue.
The odd PE part I use whatever crazy glue my wife is using for her nails.

I use a number of different adhesives.

1) Most of the time I use Tenax, it is fabulous for most of the work, great for near seamless construction
2) ModelMaster liquid cement, this almost more of a gel and great for working on cementing small parts
3) CA - both gel and thin for multi-media construction.

liquid glue, plastic weld, CA, and for clear humbrol clearfix....

CA for just about everything.

All plastic parts, minus canopies get Tenax on my models. It bonds strong and fast. Very wattery so it flows quickly with capillary action. The only problem I have found with it is if you use too much the parts will become mushy until they fully dry which can be as much as 30 minutes, but that is a rare exception.

I use Tenax for structural plastic parts because it makes a full weld, or also for making simulated welded seams.
Carpenter's glue for wood hulls.
Epoxy for extra strength, particularly in bigger models.
Ambroid for coppering ship hulls.
Liquid cement for most other styrene applications.
CA for everything else (wood, metal, etc.).

I use Citadel CA. It's available at my hobby shop, sets well, and has more uses than a Salad Shooter. Plus, it doesn't get stringy like other glues. I use clear gloss paint to glue clear parts and canopies.

demono69

I use CA (zap-a-gap) for everything on my models now because I can use it for everything! It works great for bonding plastic to plastic, p/e, resin, and I also fill seams, etc. with it. I like it because I don't need 4 different glues to do 4 different things or more.

Eric

1. Tamiya liquid cement, and Testors liquid cement for some initial bonding.
2. Superglue (CA)--Zap-a-gap, Loctite, and others (thin and gel) for filling, resin and PE parts.
3. White glue for some filling (inside muzzle brakes), clear parts, impossible decals, and making Celluclay work better for bases.
4. Conap 2-part epoxy for heavier applications where heavier bonding/filling is needed.
Why? Because they work. Haven't found anything better.
Gip Winecoff

I use a brand called "Selly's" which I think is Australia only.
It is a super glue gel which is a little more forgiving than the standard stuff in that it sets a bit slower so allows some movement of parts before the final point of committment and also , being a gel ,does not run as much as the standard liquid.
Fills gaps to some extent too.