Basic Glue Question

Phil_H wrote:

The best way to use this cement is not with the applicator brush in the cap. This brush is far too large and clumsy. Get yourself a fine point paintbrush (eg. a 00 or 000) and reserve it just for this purpose. Brushing the cement on one part and pressing the two parts together won't necessarily work - this cement evaporates very quickly, and this method may result in a poor bond. The best way to use "thin" liquid cements is to hold the two parts together and touch the loaded brush to the join. The cement will flow into the joint by capillary action. Take care though, because a little goes a long way. In the same way that it will flow along a seam between close-fitting parts, it can also flow along molded details (or between your fingers and the parts you're holding). For some applications, such as intricate sub-assemblies, or near parts which are to be left moveable, thin liquid cements are not ideal. For this sort of application, a thicker, less flowing type of cement is preferable.

 

Thank you very much. This was really helpful. I started putting some of the model pieces together, and had some issues with the glue on some areas. The paintbrush tip is really useful.

I am going to buy some thicker glue tomorrow.

So, if the seam is exposed, then I should consider using the liquid cement. If there it not much of a seam, and I am pressing pieces together, or on top of each other, I should use a thicker cement.

Thanks again... im already having a blast...

 

mike

The best way to use this cement is not with the applicator brush in the cap. This brush is far too large and clumsy. Get yourself a fine point paintbrush (eg. a 00 or 000) and reserve it just for this purpose.

Brushing the cement on one part and pressing the two parts together won't necessarily work - this cement evaporates very quickly, and this method may result in a poor bond.

The best way to use "thin" liquid cements is to hold the two parts together and touch the loaded brush to the join. The cement will flow into the joint by capillary action.

Take care though, because a little goes a long way. In the same way that it will flow along a seam between close-fitting parts, it can also flow along molded details (or between your fingers and the parts you're holding).

For some applications, such as intricate sub-assemblies, or near parts which are to be left moveable, thin liquid cements are not ideal. For this sort of application, a thicker, less flowing type of cement is preferable.

I have Testors Plastic Cement 3502

http://www.testors.com/catalog_item.asp?itemNbr=1450

 

So i just brush this on and put the pieces together?

 

thanks for all of the help. I know these are simple questions, and I have been reading a ton on this, but I wanted to learn as much as I can before I start putting things together.

 

mike 

Personally, I would not go with the tube glue. I (along with many, many members here) use liquid cement. Testors makes some that should be readily available at your local store. Other well known brands are Ambroid Proweld, and Tenex 7R. They all work about the same, with slight variations in drying time. They provide a more permanent bond than tube cement, and I think they are easier to apply.

Thanks for the help. So, I just use regular model glue that comes in a tube?

 

Also, thanks for the info on the tracks...

 

mike

DOH!!

Looks like it's my turn to mis-read a post... You were asking about the road wheels, but I thought you were talking about the tracks themselves....

Yep, the regular model cement is all you need.

If you are talking about the road wheels (the round parts, not the tracks), then it really doesn't matter how you glue them. If you want my opinion, I typically glue the 2 roadwheels together with a liquid cement. After they are done, I glue them to the suspension with super (CA) glue.

The tracks on the older Tamiya kits (like yours) are designed to be melted together, not glued. On your tracks, you will see five pins on one end, which pass through five corresponding holes on the other. Slip the pins through the holes and lay the track out on a flat surface with the join (and the pins) facing upward. Heat the tip of a small screwdriver over a candle flame for about a minute and one at a time, gently melt down each pin and when down to about 1mm above the track surface, remove the screwdriver tip and quiclky press down the melted pin with your finger. This should "mushroom" the melted pin in a manner similar to a domed rivet. Repeat for each pin and the job is done.

Having said that, some people prefer to join the tracks using CA or five-minute epoxy. The vinyl track is generally not responsive to conventional model cements.

The tracks on later Tamiya kits (I'm not sure exactly when this started) can be glued using conventional model cements. These tracks are usually molded in a slightly darker color and are a little stiffer than the "old" vinyl tracks,