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Put the sag in blades?

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  • Member since
    June 2009
  • From: Florida
Put the sag in blades?
Posted by STFD637 on Friday, June 4, 2010 2:34 PM

Does any one have any ideas or tricks that they use to get the natural looking sag in rotor blades? I work in 1/72. Most of the larger Helos I have do tis do the size of the blades. I have a couple of smaller ones that need a slighter sag to them. Any ideas?

 

Travis/STFD637

"If a lie is told often, and long enough, it becomes reality!"

Travis/STFD637

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  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Valrico, FL
Posted by HeavyArty on Friday, June 4, 2010 3:33 PM

A few ideas.  You can gently bend them down between your fingers; sliding out from the hub slowly toward the tips.  Another is to lay the blades upside down in a bowl and place some weight on the rotor mast so it pushes them into the bowl and bends the blades.  Leave it overnight and it should retain some of the bend.  Lastly, carefully heat them with a hair dryer on low and bend manually.

Gino P. Quintiliani - Field Artillery - The KING of BATTLE!!!

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  • Member since
    June 2009
  • From: Florida
Posted by STFD637 on Friday, June 4, 2010 8:28 PM
Thanks for the ideas. I am just starting out in the Helo world and I am totally hooked! I built an OH-58D Kiowa and it was a blast, but the blades just look too straight. I work around Mediflight Helo (Revell actually just released a 1/35 scale version of the one here in Lee County FLA) and even the small ones have some sag. Thanks again. Travis/STFD637

"If a lie is told often, and long enough, it becomes reality!"

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  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: Australia
Posted by Helo H-34 on Friday, June 4, 2010 8:29 PM

I have used a dinner plate to get a droop in the rotors ,which is similar to the idea Heavyarty mentioned

I placed the plate outside in the sun for a couple of days , It seems to work okay ...

I have only tried it on medium to large 1/72 scale rotors , I did try with some hot water in the sink once but I ended up with too much of a bend and a kink in the blades which I couldn't fix .

HTH.

                           John .

  • Member since
    June 2009
  • From: Florida
Posted by STFD637 on Wednesday, June 16, 2010 2:50 PM

John,

 

Thanks for the advise. I will give that a try. I do all my work in 1/72 so that helps a lot. I love the HH-3!! Is that the Revell kit or the Lindburg? Either way it looks great!Bow Down I have the Revell HH-3 kit in the stash with all the necessary decals and resin to convert it into the Coast Guard Variant. I think I am up to 4 other HH-53s in the stash now. I can't wait to dig into those!

 

Travis/STFD637

"If a lie is told often, and long enough, it becomes reality!"

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  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: Australia
Posted by Helo H-34 on Wednesday, June 16, 2010 7:06 PM

Hi Travis ,

Thank's for the kind words on my HH-3E build , I combined a Revell Seaking cockpit and rotor housing to improve Lindbergs kit , here's a link to the HH-3E build ..../forums/t/90644.aspx

Like you I'm also a big fan of the H-53 helicopter , here's a pic of my finished builds including a stalled USCG HH-3F Pelican , she was built the same as the HH-3E ;

Here is a pic of my H-53 stash...

Good luck with your builds Travis ;

Kind regards

                       John .

  • Member since
    June 2009
  • From: Florida
Posted by STFD637 on Friday, June 18, 2010 11:40 AM

John,

Very impressive collection! I would love to get up the courage to buy and build one of the 1/48 kits. I really like that they can be built in the "stowage" mode. I have seen tem built up and they look great! I am always impressed to see other peoples stash photos. I keep telling my wife my collection isn't really that big. The last FSM had a great article writtien about "building" kits in your head and I had her read it.......She is pretty understanding. Thanks again for the tip!

Travis

"If a lie is told often, and long enough, it becomes reality!"

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  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: Neenah, WI
Posted by HawkeyeHobbies on Friday, June 18, 2010 12:03 PM

Take a piece of aluminum or brass flat stock, bend it to the shape you want the blades to take on. Attach the blades to the metal, drop into hot water, let cool and check. Repeat as necessary. Affix the blade to the metal form/jig with clothes pins placed at each end. Don't use tape or anything that could leave an imprint in the hot plastic.

I usually do this before I assemble the rotor assembly.

Gerald "Hawkeye" Voigt

http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/

 

 

"Its not the workbench that makes the model, it is the modeler at the workbench."

  • Member since
    June 2003
  • From: México
Posted by SteelSnail on Wednesday, July 7, 2010 2:31 PM

There are interesting techniques in here. I have to try them.

I usually hold the blade under my desk lamp (an incandescent "day light" bulb) for as long as I don't get burned, lol. Then reshape it using my fingers along the blade. Always support the blade underneath or it will snap from the rotor. Be watchful of plastic turning white as it indicates you are about to break it.

Be careful because a light bulb will melt platic if it's exposed too long.

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