Aces of Spades - 1/35 Academy UH-1C [Build Thread]

Some plasticard, 4 magnets, and copious amounts of Tamiya tape later - I used some on a 2nd dry fit as well as what you can see in the pic below...

Here you can see the strip of plasitcard I attached to the right side half of the fuselage to hold the roof up on the left side of the fuselage, because it's misaligned, had to double up the 10though plasticard though, didn't realise how flimsy it is.  You can also see the 2 magnets and green stuff to hold them in place that I've put at the front of the roof also -

Magnets in the nose -

Need to put more magnets in, along the main body in a couple of places, along the tail boom also, but hopefully when it's done the fuselage halves will hold together without a significant gap, unlike the 1/48 UH-1D I did...

Have to let the green stuff around the 4 magnets I've put in so far set now though so that's me done on this bird for the day, just hope when I come to pull the fuselage halves apart the green stuff doesn't do what it usually does and just come off the plastic, I might try very carefully splitting the magnets down the middle with my knife and make sure I go through the green stuff also.

Just hope the magnets I've put in (and the ones I'll be putting in) aren't in the way of the interior parts...

I really like the look of this kit though, far far far better than the 1/48 Revell Huey Hog kit.

I still don't get the point of having them come apart with the magnets.  The lines they leave are disruptive and leave unrealistic joints and seams.  I would just build multiple versions if you want different types or weapons or whatever you are trying to achieve with them.

You'll see in a few months the main reason why I'm building my kits so the fuselage halves come apart.  Besides the main reason one other reason is storage, I can put them in a box easier if they come apart.

Lets just say that I'm doing something rather unorthodox so that my models aren't just items that sit on a shelf or hang from the ceiling but I'm hesitant to be specific just in case it doesn't work.

I do agree though HeavyArty, they do leave a seam which compared to the way everyone else builds models and the real thing is rather unfortunate, but it's a trade off (and I've never been much good at removing seams even when I've joined bits together).

Basically I'm putting some parts inside the models that I need to be able to remove as I'll only have one set of them because that's all I can afford for the moment, the sum total of the parts is in the region of £120/$184ish, and also I need to be able to remove the parts for maintenance if/when necessary.

Having said that I'm actually toying with the idea of sealing up the Esci UH-1D I did, as the gap is too large, and just using it as a static model.  I would then redo the decals on the nose of course.  I should have checked the fit with the interior inside (because I'm sure it's that which causes the seam gap to be bigger than it should) before I painted the model, then I could have done something about it.

I have a Bell 47 USCG (nearly completed although I've lost the enthusiasm for building it, hence the reason I've not posted any progress pics - it took "5 minutes" to build so there really wasn't any point in detailing my progress), this 1/35 UH-1C and the HH-3E, that I can put the parts into so sealing up the UH-1D and using it as a more traditional static model won't be any loss.

sorry double post

I got it, you are adding a motor and gearbox to spin the rotors, internal lights, etc., no big secret.  I still think they would look better properly sealed up, just my opinion.

No, no big secret, I just don't want to say exactly what it is until I know for sure it works, and no it's not lights or motor/gearbox just to spin the rotors, something similar though.

The instructions fail to tell you to use the two main push pull tubes that connect the scissors assy above the rotating ring to the mixing levers inside the stabalizer bar assy.  Also the cups on the blade grips are reversed so you need to cut them off and reposition them facing up then scratch build a main pitch change link from the cup to the inside of the mixing levers.  I attempted to post a couple pictures but haven't used photobucket since the upgrade and don't know if they will show up.  Looks like it worked!   You can click on the picture and look through my pic's of a UH-1M, same as the C except a -13 engine.  Notice the difference in the swashplate ears from the B/D and the C where the main servo tubes attach on the forward side.  The aft attachment is a drive link type instead of the push pull tube.  Also the drive link attachment to the rotating ring is different.  All of this is due to the increase in torque placed on the rotor system from added horsepower and weight increase of the C/M.  Also missing on the mast below the rotor head is the blade drop stop levers assy.  This kept the main blade from dipping too low on start up and shut downs.  All small stuff but not historically correct for the C/M!   Best of luck with your build.  When I retire next year I will put a model where my words are now!  You can also check out www.174ahc.org for great pic's of the Sharks, Dolphins and Witch Doctors.

Thanks Mel.  Useful info but I shall probably build the rotor mast assembly as it it, my scratch building skills are limited to blobs of green stuff and strips of plasticard, especially when it comes to working with such thin parts.

No Sweat!  Do install the main push pull tubes provided but not mentioned in the instructions.  Have fun!

Thanks Mel, if I knew what the push pull tubes were I would.  Lol.  I'll check the sprues when I assemble the rotors, they'll be one of the last sections I build.

Anyhoo I had a further go at getting the fuselage halves fixed up so they hold together this morning, I would have done some more, i.e. some of the interior also, but light is fading here in my part of the UK due to some rather ominous looking clouds overhead, and it's only just gone 13:00!

Pics -

Forgot to take a pic of the other side where I've put the engine cover door on, nice idea to have it open but I've chosen to have it shut and glued it in place.  I thought about fixing it on using magnets so that I could have it open or closed, but I think it'd be too difficult to fit the magnets in place, if they'd even fit when the interior/engine is in place.

Did a dry fit with the interior roof/floor/back wall and it will fit without causing more of a gap, unlike the ESCI UH-1D interior, but I'll have to remove the magnets that hold the front of the roof in place and I'll have to use the interior roof piece (the ceiling I suppose you'd call it) instead of the plasticard strip I put in to get some sort of level roof.   The roof on the left half of the fuselage does seem quite warped in my version of this kit, without the 2 magnets in place to hold it the left side is slightly raised up at the front and the intake doesn't meet the same part on the other half of the fuselage, the two halves of the roof only seem to meet properly in the centre!

Not happy with the stabs, they were a tight fit and don't seem to have gone on level.

I wasn't too happy with the tail fin assembly either, it doesn't seem to quite fit properly (I taped it up to dry fit it as one piece and there was still the slight ridge on one side where it joins with the tail boom).  Not sure about sanding that down though, I'll lose detail if I do.  I will also hopefully be able to close the gap at the back of the tail fin by adding a 2mmx1mm magnet towards the back end of the tail fin. 

Yes there's a gap down the middle of the fuselage, but I have an idea I think I might try - build up some Mr Surfacer on the edge of 1 of the fuselage halves, then sand it down on the outside where necessary so the gap is lessened, I haven't painted the fuselage halves yet so I won't be ruining the paint work.  Don't know if Mr Surfacer will adhere to just one edge though.  Have to see how that goes...

The currency you see in the pics is just 6 British pennies to weigh the model down on it's skids, otherwise it tips up, I'll have to glue them to the underside of the interior floor when I've got it built.

Overall though this is going quite well so far, despite the poor fit around the roof and the intake area and the stabs going on a bit skewed.

The push pull tubes will look like plastic tooth pics and may be part number 44.  It's funny they are shown in the box art and not in the instructions.  I've seen many kits made without them.  Having worked and flown as Crew Chief on Hueys for 10 years I know them inside and out.  However as a modeler I always research my subjects as much as possilbe to catch such mistakes by the manufacturer of the model kit.  Just my "thing" I guess!  I had started on the Charlie and found the crew compartment bulk head needed some sanding on one side for a good fit and you will find you need to shim the door posts behind the pilots seats so the inside roof doesn't hang down.

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a push pull tube is a tube with a clevis on one end,  and a threaded rod end on the other.  it connects a  component  like the tail rotor input quill to the original or intermittent input under pressure.  it allows feedback to the person inputting the command.(pilot/stick actuator)

This should explain it better.

Thanks for the pic Gino, I'm not that photo shop savy!  You can see the counter weigths for the droop stops hanging down and the assy around the mast pretty good in that photo too.  Also the extra spacer and higher boot on top of the mixing levers that covers the extra splined area and well as the rear link.

Ah those parts, yes I see what you mean now, they were moulded onto the mast on the 1/48 ESCI UH-1D.  Guess I'll be needing some tweezers.  I wish there was some way to make poly cement set quicker, like a version of a CA accelerator.

I certainly wouldn't miss those parts off though, the rotor assembly just wouldn't look right, especially as I know they should be there having assembled a UH-1D.

I just thought I would post a picture of a little "1 to 1" replica nose and side panel art of the 174th AHC since I've done the "Ace of Spades". 

Nice art Mel.

Soo...

I just assembled the weapon sponsons and the miniguns for this bird.

What a palava!!

I'm not even sure if I've put them together correctly, despite having the instructions (I found pics of the instructions on a web site) - it looks like both miniguns are for the same side and I've some how got to wrap the rubber ammo feed belts around more on one side than the other.

And the barrels aren't what I'd call quality.  What possessed Academy to mould the barrels in 3 parts and the breach and the rest of the mechanism in multiple parts!!?!

I'll have to let the glue dry on the bits and see how they fit together on the main body.  That should be fun!

Yeah I know.

I was thinking though that one minigun should have the ammo feed on the opposite side to the other minigun, i.e. one has a right hand ammo feed and the other has a left hand ammo feed.

Having looked at some photos of the real thing though I see Academy have modelled the miniguns correctly.

I just found it confusing when I was building them, kind of as though they're "two left feet".

They're still a bit rubbish though, Academy should have moulded them in a single piece, or at least two pieces - the barrel and mechanism.  I might see if I can't get some aftermarket miniguns in 1/35 and swap them out at some point.

I also don't like the way the minigun assemblies attach to the pylons that attach to the sponsons - seems quite a weak point, i.e. they'll easily break off I think.

Not the best part of this kit methinks.

I am working on the RB PE and metal miniguns for my 1/35 UH-1B right now.  They might look great but they are  a pain in the butt to build.  ALL the holes need to be drilled to fit the barrels!  I really wish someone would have mentioned this fact before i started assembling mine.  If I ever get a set finished, I'll post a photo.  However, I agree that the MRC/Academy minis are crap.

  Ray

Thanks for the heads up on those Ray, I was looking at them on ebay last night, they do seem quite good when completed but they're only the barrels as I understand it.  And they would be too fiddly for me I fear, I'm all thumbs these days.

I've just bought a set of Legend XM-134 (LF1038) instead, they cost me <£5 (<$7.74ish).  They might be a little too large (I've seen another thread around here where someone posted comparison pics of the Cobra Company M134, a pic of a real one scaled down and the Legend ones), but at that price I can't complain and they're not that much larger that it'll look ridiculous.

Only thing I'm concerned about is all the pics I've seen of the individual parts seem to have a bent barrel section (they look a bit like bananas!) - if they come like that I'm not sure of how to remedy that issue, presumably I'd have to heat them up and bend them back.  Hopefully they'll come all nice and straight.

Progress report.

I've removed the magnets that were holding the fuselage together and I'm building this kit normally, although I have had to rip the roof off as it was warped on one half, but I plan on sorting that out and fixing it back and putty up the join...

Got most of the cockpit done today, nothing fancy, just a basic paintjob as you won't really see it when I've buttoned up the fuselage.  Still need to add the cyclics, collectives, the two fire extinguishers, and the first aid kits that go on the pillars aft of the pilot/co-pilot.  All of which I'm painting then attaching.

Not sure how to paint those first aid kits though, but the instructions indicate they have a decal to go on them?

Once I've done those few bits I'm ready to button up the fuselage, it's painted on the inside all ready to go (except the interior ceiling which I've attached to the two halves of the roof to try to fix the warpage).

I'm not too keen on the Model Master Acryl Olive Drab, it's supposed to be the correct FS number but it looks too light to me on the ammo box under the rear seat.  It's more like the Vallejo Russian Uniform Green that I used on the seat in the rear cabin.  It went on over a bit of a grey undercoat so I'm hoping it dries darker over a black undercoat.

Perhaps I bought the wrong one, I bought MM Acryl 4728 which is supposed to be FS34087, and I understand that to be the correct OD for Vietnam era Hueys?

Here's some pics -

Progress report.

Not much I'm afraid, done about 3.5 hours work today on this and I don't feel I've accomplished much.

I've painted the fire extinguishers, undercoated the co-pilots flexi-sight, the gunners ammo can, and the minigun feed belts (which you can't see in the pics below), painted the cyclic and collective sticks, and assembled the crew, although I've left the crew chief figure to one side as he's standing upright and as I'm hanging this on my ceiling he won't really go with the helicopter (he's supposed to stand on the ground).  I've also had to reposition the pillars behind the front seats as they weren't touching the fuselage in the right places.

The fit of the fuselage doesn't seem to be too good at all, the fuselage halves don't seem to like meeting up level at all.  I will have some gaps to fill and major ridges to file/sand off, especially along the centre seam and where I've removed the roof (the roof itself has a big ridge along the centre where the halves have warped and don't meet up properly), I also think I should have thought a bit more carefully about where to cut so it was neater, probably left the pilots doors off and taken the roof off with the the front pillars down where they meet the nose, hopefully Liquid Green Stuff will fill those gaps nicely.  I think I will also need to invest in some model clamps to squeeze the fuselage shut.

Here's some pics of the test fit I've done (nothing is glued, just held together with Tamiya tape, and the crew just "drop in" and sit nicely) -

More progress on this -

The Tamiya tape you see attached to the roof is holding it down and in place whilst some poly cement I put into the gaps sets.  I've "spot welded" the two halves of the fuselage at the nose (you can see there's a gap in the nose, it's actually not as bad as that now I've squeezed it together a bit but I plan on filling any gaps present (especially where I've had to rejoin the roof with Citadel Liquid Green Stuff) and along the top of the engine and behind the exhaust (although you can't see those two points in the pics).

The peg is holding the roof down onto the ceiling to cure some of the warpage.

The crew are all painted up.

The windscreen isn't attached (I hope, no poly cement looks like it's got down that far), I hope to be able to pull that out so that I can put in the anti-glare roof windows that I've yet to clear green and fit in place (I should have done that first methinks!!!).

I'll be attacking the side windows with Fairy Power spray (via a brush to make sure I don't overdo it) to see if I can remove the marks on them and then I'll recoat them with future.  I dipped all the windows (except the roof anti-glare ones) in Klear, put them in a clean ice cream tub with a lid on to cure, and I still managed to get marks on all but the nose windows and windscreen, although the windscreen appears to have some speckles in the pic above!!

Looking forward to this. Interior looks great.

Thanks.  I've got the fuselage properly buttoned up now and I've puttied up the gaps using liquid green stuff (although it may need more as it tends to shrink quite a lot, especially on the roof where I've got gaps from where I cut it off).

Need to move on to sanding the green stuff now to get a nice smooth flat transition between the plastic and the green stuff and remove any ridges/seam lines.

Still need to add some bits to the exterior before I start painting also.

The gunner has also sadly fallen off his perch.  No big deal though, the patch where he was glued is not noticeable and I can easily glue him back on.  Plus it's probably better he's not attached as I don't think I could have masked the space off for painting with him there without a bit of unnecessary difficulty.

Getting there, slowly...

Added some of the exterior detail I hadn't yet put on, did some putty work on the gaps, mostly in the rear of the cabin, and tidied up the Tamiya tape on the nose windows.

The Liquid Green Stuff doesn't look too smooth on camera but hopefully it'll look better once I've got primer over it.  Fantastic stuff though, as a veteran GW gamer I was aware of the existence of LGS but had never used it..

I've removed all the other windows and fairy power sprayed them and I intend to re-dip them in Klear and reattach them.  I'm flipping a coin in my head as to whether or not I want to reattach them prior to airbrushing the body or after...

I've built but I won't be adding the co-pilots sight, for some reason it just doesn't seem to fit.  You're supposed to position it so that the co-pilot is holding in his hand, but then if I do that it doesn't attach on the ceiling where it's supposed to!?!

Getting a bit frustrated though as I'm now at the point where I need to start painting but I am waiting on delivery of some grey primer and I've run out of Klear!  Might get back to working on this on Thursday...

The weapons sights rotated down from the overhead just near the crash pads that cover the windshield wiper motor. The M60 reflex sight for the pilot rotated down to the right and was used by the AC (Aircraft Commander) to fire the rockets. The Peter Pilot (left seater) had the M21 sight and could fire the guns (traverse & elevation) as well the FFAR rockets.