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Raised rivets on Revel's Merlin 101 - how do you get them back if sanded some out.

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  • Member since
    December 2005
  • From: Toronto, Canada
Raised rivets on Revel's Merlin 101 - how do you get them back if sanded some out.
Posted by Stuart06 on Monday, April 6, 2015 1:46 PM
I am working on Revel's Merlin 101 and had to sand some joints so that you cannot see some gaps. Although I can re-scribe any panel lines, the problem is the raised rivet details. In 1:72 scale they are extremely small. All the rivets are raised so I don't thing a rivet roller will help (or would/could it?) What would be he best technique to get these rivets back. I was thinking of using dots of super glue, but worry about lining them straight and even? (is that the best method?)

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  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Valrico, FL
Posted by HeavyArty on Monday, April 6, 2015 4:13 PM

Archer Fine Transfers has 3D Surface Detail decals that include rivets in various sizes.  They are made out of resin on decal paper and work very well. 

You can check them out here:  www.archertransfers.com/SurfaceDetailsMain.html 

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  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Monday, April 6, 2015 4:17 PM

Really, I looked at a number of photos of the aircraft. Those are tiny little things in double rows.

I don't think glue will work. Check out Gino's link.

Dang though at 1/72 tiny.

EDIT: I read your OP more closely- you have most but not all of the rivets.

That makes it nearly impossible. Not to be a d*ck but if you want rivets you might just buy another one. And finish this one with them all sanded off. Maybe with those resin rivets too.

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  • Member since
    December 2005
  • From: Toronto, Canada
Posted by Stuart06 on Monday, April 6, 2015 6:01 PM

When I mean I have most of them, I mean that in a line of rivets maybe half of the rivets in that line has been sanded down where I needed to close the joint.

In a full line, perhaps the Archer things will work...

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  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by RobGroot4 on Tuesday, April 7, 2015 3:15 AM

In 1/72 if you sanded the remainder off and used a roller to "add them back" the eye likely wouldn't be able to tell they are indented vice sticking out under paint and a wash.  If you have an old model or some scrap plastic give it a shot.  If you don't have a roller-style riveter, you can use a pin vise and a needle to see how it looks, but I would recommend using a roller on your model for alignment and spacing.  Dymo tape (sold at office supply stores) works great as a guide for the riveting rollers.

If you opted for the archer transfers, I imagine they would be ever so slightly larger or smaller than the ones molded on the kit and you might need to replace the ones you saved anyway.

Groot

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  • Member since
    June 2003
Posted by supercobra on Wednesday, April 15, 2015 8:38 PM

A hacksaw blade also works well as a guide for getting a straight line and even spacing if you want to indent them using a needle.

  • Member since
    April 2004
  • From: UK
Posted by Jon_a_its on Thursday, April 16, 2015 3:27 AM

The better rivet-rollers are shaped to more closely resemble the 'dimple', in that the point indents, creating a donut of raised plastic round the dent.

The skill lies in getting them even, & correctly spaced. Dymo tape, double-thickness Tamiya tape, PE templates will help. good luck

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  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: St. Louis
Posted by Shawn M. on Thursday, April 16, 2015 12:20 PM

when I lost some on my fw-190 I used the archer rivets to bring them back, easy to use and turned out great

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