AFV/MRC 1/35 AH-1W Propeller problem....

Nice start to your dio you've got going there. And it's good to hear/see that you've gotten your problem fixed, too.

Ok, Update!!.. In my last post, I forgot to mention that last night, I actually carefully wound around the joins of the props with cotton.. I then glued over the top, and decided to sit it upside down and let it dry.. Came home from work, and have just placed the props on the snake, and wallah! Strait as a tack.. One prop actually bends a few degrees up now, but I am willing to live with it compared to it drooping.. A bit of black paint, and I think I will be out of trouble!..
Again.. Thanks heaps guys!

Please forgive the camera, I am still having to use my webcam.. But this somtheing that I have put together.. Its also the reason I decided to keep with the Japanese theme.. I still have to dirty everything up, to make it look like they are operational in the sand!









Chris in Japan

Thanks guys.. I apreciate it!.. I have had a sleep, and am now at work.. Last thing on my mind.. I will get back to it on the weekend.. Best I leave it for a few days.. Again, all your suggestions have been great.. I will be a busy boy ...

Chris in Japan

Chris, don't get too down on yourself, otherwise you're not enjoying the hobby! I had to do surgery on BOTH skids of my Cobra. One broke off when my son hit it with a nerf football while I was gone, and I broke the other one off much like you did. I drilled some small holes in the broken joints, added some brass rod and CA and she was as good as new. Sure, there's a little lean in her stance, but its not so noticeable to the casual observer. I'm happy that I could get it fixed, and I picked up some confidence in my skills by making it look hardly noticable.

Taking a break is probably your best course of action, then you can take another crack at it later.

Here's a possible solution:

First, remove the blades from the rotar head. Next, fill the hole in the rotar head that the end of the blade fits into with epoxy. Let the epoxy get nice and hard. Drill a small hole in the epoxy and a corresponding hole in the end of the blade. Using superglue, glue a brass rod in the hole of the blade, then insert the other end of the rod into the hole in the epoxy in the rotar head. Try to get about 3/4" of brass rod into each hole. You'll be amazed at how stiff it will be. Just make sure the holes are drilled well.

I did this for both the blades and the skids. Absolutely no sag or dip.

If you need me to explain this better, just let me know.

Jesse

By the way, I just finished my MRC AH-1W

I had the same problem, mine droop down atleast 2 inches..... I tried everything to fix it, i finally just resorted to just putting it in the "old kit" room....the room where i keep my first kits, the ones with the glue covered canopies, and the paint jobs from h-e-double hockey sticks.

I too was disapointed in this.....

W blades are too stiff. They don't droop. To fix the model you need to put some shims under it before you glue it. Now that you glued it, I would recommend cutting them off at the root, drilling them out and putting a length of wire coat hangar in there.

Well to be honest, its just going from bad to worse.. Not only have I spent the night trying to get the props to stay strait.. I decided to do some final touches to it, and finish her off.. Whilst painting a section I leaned too heavy on it, and snapped one of the skids.. Now it is lower on one side.. I have re-glued it, but fear the worste.. Also when I was doing a brush job on the engines, I had some silver paint on my finger, and yes didnt know it, and left a nice silver smear on the side of it.. Not bad, fixable.. But I have simply had to put it away in frustration.. I had big hopes for this kit, as it was my first 1/35, but it has turned into looking like a toy!

Chris in Japan

Don't know what to tell you, Chris, I had a little sag on the main rotor, but nothing too bad. I thought it gave it a more realistic look, as most blades I've seen droop at rest. How bad is it on yours?

If I recall, I used both Testors and Tenax to glue that assembly together, the testors went in the interior of the main joints, with the Tenax taking care of the edges to seal it all up nice and tight. Hopefully someone else will be along with some actual help for you.